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The Best of Costa Rica
A red-eyed tree frog in Tortuguero.
© Adrian Hepworth
With more than two million visitors each year, Costa Rica is currently—and consistently—one of the hottest vacation and adventure-travel destinations in Latin America. Despite its popularity and mass appeal, Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity, where you can still find yourself far from the madding crowds. The country boasts a wealth of unsullied beaches that stretch for miles, small lodgings that haven’t attracted hordes of tourists, jungle rivers for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud forests and rainforests with ample opportunities for bird-watching and hiking. In addition to the country’s trademark eco- and adventure-tourism offerings, you will also find luxury resorts and golf courses, plush spas, and some truly spectacular boutique hotels and lodges.
Having lived in Costa Rica for more than 20 years, I continue to explore and discover new spots, adventures, restaurants, and lodgings—and my “best of” experiences keep on coming. In this chapter, I select the very best of what this unique country has to offer. This chapter is meant to give you an overview of the highlights so that you can start planning your own adventure.
The most Unforgettable Costa Rica Experiences
• Zipping Through the Treetops: You’ll find zip-line canopy tours all over Costa Rica. In most cases, after a bit of a hike, you strap on a harness and zip from treetop to treetop while dangling from a cable. Check chapter 4, “The Best Special-Interest Trips,” and the various destination chapters to find a canopy tour operation near you.
• Taking a Night Tour in a Tropical Forest: Most Neotropical forest dwellers are nocturnal. Night tours are offered at most rainforest and cloud forest destinations throughout the country. Some of the better spots for night tours are Monteverde , Tortuguero , and the Osa Peninsula .
• Soaking in a Volcanic Hot Spring: Costa Rica’s volcanoes have blessed the country with a host of natural hot spring spots. From the opulent grandeur of Tabacón to more humble options around Rincón de la Vieja , all offer mineral-rich, naturally heated waters to soothe what ails you.
Tabacón Hot Springs.
© Courtesy Tabacon Grand Thermal Resort
• Spotting a Resplendent Quetzal: The iridescent colors and long, flowing tail feathers of this aptly named bird are breathtaking. Revered by ancient Mesoamerican peoples throughout the region, this extremely endangered species can still be regularly sighted in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and along the Cerro de la Muerte .
• Meeting Some Monkeys: Costa Rica’s rain and cloud forests are home to four species of New World Monkeys—howler, capuchin, squirrel, and spider. I can’t guarantee you’ll see one or more, but your odds are good if you visit the trails and reserves around Monteverde , Tortuguero , Manuel Antonio, or the Osa Peninsula .
• Gazing into the Open Maw of an Active Volcano: You won’t be staring into a cauldron of bubbling lava, but you can get right up to the lip of several active volcanoes here. The craters of Poás and Irazú volcanoes are both easily reached by car, although you’ll have to be in seriously good hiking shape to reach the rim of Rincón de la Vieja.
Poás Volcano.
© Jason Kremkau
The best Places to See Wildlife
• Santa Rosa National Park (northeast of Liberia, in Guanacaste): One of the largest and last remaining stands of tropical dry forest in Costa Rica, Santa Rosa National Park is a great place for all sorts of wildlife viewing. The sparce foliage, especially during the dry season, makes things that much easier for novice naturalists.
• The Río Sarapiquí Region (north of San José btw. Guanacaste in the west and the Caribbean coast in the east): Protected tropical forests climb from the Caribbean coastal lowlands up into the central mountains, affording you a glimpse of a plethora of life zones and ecosystems. Braulio Carrillo National Park borders several private reserves, and here you’ll find a variety of ecolodges, to suit any budget. See “Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí,” in chapter 10.
• Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve (in the mountains northwest of San José): There’s something both eerie and majestic about walking around in the early morning mist surrounded by bird calls, animal rustlings, and towering trees hung heavy in broad bromeliads, flowering orchids, and hanging moss and vines. The reserve has a well-maintained network of trails, and the community is truly involved in conservation.
Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve.
© Thornton Cohen
• Manuel Antonio (near Quepos on the central Pacific coast): The reason this place is so popular and renowned? Monkeys! The national park here is full of them, even the endangered squirrel monkeys. White-faced capuchin monkeys are quite common here, and have been known to rifle through backpacks in search of a snack. See “Manuel Antonio National Park,” in chapter 11.
Manuel Antonio National Park.
© Ken Cedeno
• Osa Peninsula (in southern Costa Rica): This is Costa Rica’s most remote and biologically rich region. Corcovado National Park, the largest remaining patch of virgin lowland tropical rainforest in Central America, takes up much of the Osa Peninsula. Jaguars, crocodiles, and scarlet macaws all call this place home. Whether you stay in a luxury nature lodge in Drake Bay or outside of Puerto Jiménez, or camp in the park itself, you will be surrounded by some of the most lush and most intense jungle this country has to offer. See chapter 12.
• Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals (on the Caribbean coast, north of Limón): Tortuguero has been called Costa Rica’s Venice, but it actually has more in common with the South American Amazon. As you explore the narrow canals here, you’ll see a wide variety of herons and other water birds, three types of monkeys, three-toed sloths, and caimans. If you come between June and October, you could be treated to the awe-inspiring spectacle of a green turtle nesting—the small stretch of Tortuguero beach is the last remaining major nesting site of this endangered animal. See “Tortuguero National Park,” in chapter 13.
The best Food & Drink Experiences
• Sampling a Wide Range of Tropical Fruits: It’s locally grown and plentiful, so be sure to eat as much fresh fruit as possible. From pineapples, bananas, watermelons, papayas, and mangos, things get a bit more exotic as you taste carambola (star fruit), maracuyá (passion fruit), guanabana (sour sop), and mamón chino (litchi).
A pineapple plantation in Costa Rica.
© Adrian Hepworth
• Touring a Coffee Plantation: World renowned and highly coveted, you can enjoy fresh brewed Costa Rican coffee at the source all across the country. Go even deeper and learn how this bean is grown and processed. Coffee tours are offered in several spots around the Central Valley and outside Monteverde. See chapters 7 and 10.
• Eating Fresh Grilled Fish at an Oceanfront Restaurant: In my mind, nothing beats freshly caught and simply grilled whole fish. It’s even better when you can enjoy it at a beachfront restaurant. Luckily, this combination is available up and down Costa Rica’s two coasts. See chapters 8, 9, 11, 12, and 13.
• Drinking Fresh Coconut Water: High in electrolytes and incredibly refreshing, fresh, cold coconut water from a green coconut (pipa) is a delight on a hot day. You’ll find itinerant sellers walking the beaches and set up at roadside stands across the country. A few quick strikes with a machete and a hole is neatly opened atop the coconut, a straw is popped in, and you’re soon sipping this sweet nectar.
• Taking a Vanilla Tour: The world’s only edible orchid, vanilla is a hot commodity that thrives in the lowland tropical climate. The tour offered at Villa Vanilla outside of Manuel Antonio is fun, informative, and tasty.
• Enjoying a Sunset Drink from a Hillside Perch Overlooking the Pacific Ocean: Every night, the sun slips slowly into the Pacific Ocean, and there are scores of great beachfront and hilltop perches spanning the length of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast from which to enjoy the spectacle. See chapters 8, 9, 11, and 12.
The best Ways to Experience Costa Rica Like a Local
Eating at a Soda: The Costa Rican equivalent of a diner, sodas are simple, family-run restaurants serving local standards. You’ll find them in every town and city in the country. Head in and order a casado, a bowl of olla de carne, or a plate of gallo pinto. Soda Tapia in San José, Soda Carolina in Puerto Jiménez, and Soda Tamara are a few classic sodas you’ll come across as you travel the country, but you’ll find one or more in every town and city in Costa Rica.
• Pouring on the Salsa Lizano: Whether or not you’re eating at a soda, or having breakfast at the Four Seasons, be sure to try some Salsa Lizano. This tangy tamarind-based sauce is used on everything from salad, to rice and beans, to grilled meats and poultry.
• Riding a Local Bus: Local buses are inexpensive and go just about everywhere in Costa Rica. You can get your feet wet with a short ride on a city bus in San José, or rough it on a 4-hour or more jaunt to a beach or rainforest destination. See “Getting There” sections throughout this book.
• Playing in a Pick-Up Football (Soccer) Game: You’ll find informal friendly fútbol matches all across the country. You can head to La Sabana Park any weekend or afternoon. But I prefer to jump into a game on the beach, with some simple sticks stuck in the sand as goal posts.
• Salsa Dancing the Night Away: Ticos love to dance. Get on the dance floor at a club at any major tourist destination, but if you want to see and shake some serious salsa, head to Castro’s or Salsa 54 in San José.
Party Down at Fiestas Civicas: Nearly every town and city in Costa Rica hosts an annual Fiesta Civica (Civic Party). Most feature itinerant carnival-style booths, and food stands, as well as a bull ring for Tico-style bull fighting. The largest are found in San José, but if you ask at your hotel and your timing’s right, you might be able to find one in a small town or village.
The best Family Destinations
• La Paz Waterfall Gardens (www.waterfallgardens.com; 2482-2100): This multifaceted attraction features paths and suspended walkways set alongside a series of impressive jungle waterfalls. Kids will love the variety and vibrancy of the various offerings, from the hummingbird, wild cat, and reptile exhibits to the impressive power of the waterfalls.
A butterfly exhibit at La Paz Waterfall Gardens.
© Thornton Cohen
• Playa Hermosa: The protected waters of this Pacific beach make it a family favorite. However, just because the waters are calm doesn’t mean it’s boring. I recommend staying at the beachfront Hotel Playa Hermosa Bosque del Mar and checking in at Aqua Sport, where you can rent sea kayaks, sailboards, paddle boats, beach umbrellas, and bicycles.
• Playa Tamarindo: This surf town has a bit of something for everyone. It’s a great spot for kids to learn how to surf or boogie-board, and there are a host of tours and activities to please the entire family. Hotel Capitán Suizo has an excellent location on a calm section of beach, spacious rooms, and a great pool for kids and adults alike. See “Playa Tamarindo & Playa Langosta,” in chapter 8.
• Monteverde: This area not only boasts the country’s most famous cloud forest, but also offers up a wide variety of attractions and activities. After hiking through the reserve, you should be able to keep everyone happy and occupied riding horses; squirming at the serpentarium; or visiting the butterfly farm, frog pond, bat jungle, and hummingbird gallery. See “Monteverde,” in chapter 10.
A hummingbird at the Monteverde Hummingbird Gallery.
© Adrian Hepworth
• Playa de Jacó: Jacó’s streets are lined with souvenir shops, ice-cream stands, and inexpensive eateries. Activity options range from surf lessons and bungee jumping to a small-boat cruise among the crocodiles on the Tarcoles River. Club del Mar Condominiums & Resort is accommodating to families with small children. See “Playa de Jacó,” in chapter 11.
• Manuel Antonio: Manuel Antonio has a bit of everything: miles of gorgeous beaches, tons of wildlife (with almost guaranteed monkey sightings), and plenty of active-tour options. Of the loads of lodging options, Hotel Sí Como No, with its large suites, two pools, water slide, and nightly movies, is probably your best bet. See “Manuel Antonio National Park,” in chapter 11.
The best Beaches
With more than 1,200km (750 miles) of shoreline on its Pacific and Caribbean coasts, Costa Rica offers beachgoers an embarrassment of riches.
Santa Rosa National Park: You’ll have to four-wheel-drive or hike 13km (8 miles) from the central ranger station to reach these remote beaches, but you’ll probably have the place almost to yourself. In fact, the only time it gets crowded is in October, when thousands of olive ridley sea turtles nest in one of their yearly arribadas (arrivals).
• Playa Nacascolo: With silky soft white sand, this is the best stretch of beach on the Papagayo Peninsula. The waters here are protected from ocean swells and are great for swimming. See “Playa Hermosa, Playa Panamá & Papagayo,” in chapter 8.
• Playa Avellanas: Just south of Tamarindo, this long, white-sand beach has long been a favorite haunt for surfers, locals, and those in-the-know. Playa Avellanas stretches on for miles, backed largely by protected mangrove forests. This beach is home to Lola’s, perhaps my favorite beachfront restaurant in the country.
• The Beaches Around Playa Sámara: Playa Sámara is nice enough, but venturing just slightly farther afield, you’ll find two of the prettiest beaches along the entire Pacific coast. Playa Carrillo is a long crescent of palm-backed white sand located just south of Sámara, while Playa Barrigona is a hidden gem tucked down a rugged dirt road to the north. See “Playa Sámara,” in chapter 9.
• Playa Montezuma: This tiny beach town at the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula has weathered fame and infamy, but retains a funky sense of individuality, with plenty of isolated spots to plop down your towel or mat. Nearby, you’ll find two beautiful waterfalls, as well as the Cabo Blanco and Curú wildlife preserves. See “Playa Montezuma,” in chapter 9.
• Malpaís & Santa Teresa: With just a smattering of luxury lodges, surf camps, and assorted hotels and cabinas, this is the place to come if you’re looking for miles of deserted beaches and great surf. See “Malpaís & Santa Teresa,” in chapter 9.
A surf class in Santa Teresa.
© Jason Kremkau
• Manuel Antonio: Manuel Antonio National Park was the first beach destination to become popular in Costa Rica, and its beaches are still idyllic. The views from the hills approaching the park are enchanting. This is also one of the few remaining habitats for the endangered squirrel monkey. See “Manuel Antonio National Park,” in chapter 11.
• Punta Uva & Manzanillo: These beaches serve up true Caribbean splendor, with turquoise waters, coral reefs, and palm-lined stretches of nearly deserted white-sand beach. Tall coconut palms line the shore, providing shady respite, and the water is usually quite calm and good for swimming. See “Playas Cocles, Chiquita, Manzanillo & South of Puerto Viejo,” in chapter 13.
Punta Uva.
© Adrian Hepworth
The best Ecolodges & Wilderness Resorts
Ecolodge options in Costa Rica range from tent camps with no electricity, cold-water showers, and communal buffet-style meals to some of the most luxurious accommodations in the country.
Arenal Observatory Lodge (near La Fortuna): Originally a research facility, this lodge now features comfy rooms with impressive views of Arenal Volcano. Excellent trails lead to nearby lava flows and a nice waterfall. Toucans frequent the trees near the lodge, and howler monkeys provide the wake-up calls.
• Monteverde Lodge & Gardens (Monteverde): One of the original ecolodges in Monteverde, this place has only improved over the years, with great guides, updated rooms, and lush gardens. The operation is run by the very dependable and experienced Costa Rica Expeditions.
• La Paloma Lodge (Drake Bay): If your idea of the perfect nature lodge is one where your front porch provides prime-time viewing of flora and fauna, this place is for you. If you decide to leave the comfort of your porch, the Osa Peninsula’s lowland rainforests are just outside your door.
• Bosque del Cabo Rainforest Lodge (Osa Peninsula): Large, unique, and cozy private cabins perched on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean and surrounded by lush rainforest make this one of my favorite spots in the country. There’s plenty to do and great guides here.
• Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge (Golfo Dulce): This lodge is by far the best option on the Golfo Dulce. Set in deep forest, the individual bungalows here are a perfect blend of rusticity and luxury, and the guides, service, and surrounding wildlife are all superb.
• Tortuga Lodge (Tortuguero): This is another of the excellent ecolodges run by Costa Rica Expeditions, and features a beautiful riverfront restaurant and swimming pool. The canals of Tortuguero snake through its maze of lowland primary rainforest. The beaches here are major sea-turtle nesting sites.
Tortuga Lodge.
© Courtesy Tortuga Lodge
• Selva Bananito Lodge (in the Talamanca Mountains south of Limón): This is one of the few lodges providing direct access to the southern Caribbean lowland rainforests. You can hike along a riverbed, ride horses through the rainforest, climb 30m (100 ft.) up a ceiba tree, or rappel down a jungle waterfall here.
The best Bird-Watching
• Spotting Hundreds of Marsh & Stream Birds Along the Río Tempisque Basin: This area is an important breeding ground for gallinules, jacanas, and limpkins, and is a common habitat for numerous heron and kingfisher species. Options here include visits to Palo Verde National Park, El Viejo Wetlands , and Rancho Humo.
• Looking for 300-Plus Species of Birds in La Selva Biological Station: With an excellent trail system through a variety of habitats, from dense primary rainforest to open pasturelands and cacao plantations, this is one of the finest places for bird-watching in Costa Rica. With such a variety of habitats, the number of species spotted runs to well over 300.
• Sizing up a Jabiru Stork at Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge: Caño Negro Lake and the Río Frío that feeds it are incredibly rich in wildlife and a major nesting and gathering site for aquatic bird species. These massive birds are getting less common in Costa Rica, but this is still one of the best places to spot one.
• Catching a Scarlet Macaw in Flight over Carara National Park: Macaws are noisy and colorful birds that spend their days in the park but choose to roost in the evenings near the coast. They arrive like clockwork every morning and then head for the coastal mangroves around dusk. These daily migrations give birders a great chance to see these magnificent birds in flight.
• Looking for a Resplendent Quetzal in the Cerro de la Muerte: Serious bird-watchers won’t want to leave Costa Rica without crossing this bird off their lists, and neophytes might be hooked for life after seeing one of these iridescent green wonders fly overhead. See “Where to See Quetzals in the Wild: Cerro de la Muerte & San Gerardo de Dota,” in chapter 11.
• Spotting Hundreds of Species at Wilson Botanical Gardens: With more than 7,000 species of tropical plants and flowers, the trails of this gorgeous research facility are fabulous for bird-watching. Hummingbirds and tanagers are particularly plentiful, but the bounty doesn’t end there—more than 360 different species of birds have been recorded here. See “Golfito: Gateway to the Golfo Dulce,” in chapter 12.
Taking Advantage of the Caribbean’s Best Birding at Aviarios Sloth Sanctuary of Costa Rica: If it flies along this coast, chances are good that you’ll spot it here; more than 330 species of birds have been spotted so far. In the afternoon, large flocks of several heron species nest here, including white, cattle, and boat-billed herons.
Blue-crowned motmots.
© Adrian Hepworth
The best Adventure Sport Experiences
• Mountain-Biking the Back Roads of Costa Rica: The lack of infrastructure and paved roads here that most folks bemoan is a huge boon for mountain bikers. The country has endless back roads and trails to explore. The area around La Fortuna and Lake Arenal is my favorite destination for mountain biking. The views are stunning, and the terrain is widely varied.
• Rafting the Upper Reventazón River (near Turrialba): The Class V Guayabo section of this popular river is serious white water. Only experienced and gutsy river runners need apply. If you’re not quite up to that, try a 2-day Pacuare River trip, which passes through primary and secondary forests and a beautiful steep gorge.
• Surfing & Four-Wheeling Guanacaste Province: From Witch’s Rock at Playa Naranjo near the Nicaraguan border to Playa Nosara, more than 100km (62 miles) away, you’ll find scores of world-class surf spots. In addition to the two mentioned, try a session at Playa Grande, Punta Langosta, and playas Negra, Avellanas, and Junquillal. Or find your own secret spot. See chapter 8.
• Trying the Adventure Sport of Canyoning: While every canyoning tour is unique, it usually involves hiking along and through the rivers and creeks of a steep mountain canyon, with periodic breaks to rappel down the face of a waterfall, jump off a rock into a jungle pool, or float down a small rapid. See chapters 7, 10, and 12.
A canyoning tour.
© Thornton Cohen
• Windsurfing or Kitesurfing on Lake Arenal: With steady gale-force winds (at certain times of the year) and stunning scenery, the northern end of Lake Arenal has become a major international windsurfing and kitesurfing hot spot. See chapter 10.
Windsurfing on Lake Arenal.
© Thornton Cohen
Diving off the Shores of Isla del Coco (off the Pacific coast): Legendary among treasure seekers, pirate buffs, and scuba divers, this small island is surrounded by clear Pacific waters, and its reefs are teeming with life (divers regularly encounter large schools of hammerhead sharks, curious manta rays, and docile whale sharks).
The best Day Hikes & Nature Walks
• Lankester Gardens: If you want a really pleasant but not overly challenging day hike, consider a walk among the hundreds of distinct species of flora on display here. The trails meander from areas of well-tended open garden to shady natural forest, and their orchid collection is stellar.
• Rincón de la Vieja National Park: This park has trails through a variety of ecosystems. My favorite hike is down to the Blue Lake and Cangrejo Falls. You can also hike up to two craters and a crater lake here, while the Las Pailas loop is ideal for those seeking a less strenuous hike.
Rincón de la Vieja National Park.
© Adrian Hepworth
• La Selva Biological Station: La Selva has an extensive and well-marked network of trails. You’ll have to reserve in advance (www.threepaths.co.cr; 2524-0607) and take the guided tour if you aren’t a guest at the lodge. But the hikes are led by very informed naturalists, so you might not mind the company.
• Arenal National Park: Arenal National Park has several excellent trails that visit a variety of ecosystems, including rainforest, secondary forest, savanna, and, my favorite, old lava flows. Most of them are on the relatively flat flanks of the volcano, so there’s not too much climbing involved. See “Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna,” in chapter 10.
• Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve: Take a guided tour in the morning to familiarize yourself with the cloud forest, and then spend the late morning or afternoon (your entrance ticket is good for the entire day) exploring the reserve on your own. Off the main thoroughfares, Monteverde reveals its rich mysteries with stunning regularity.
Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve.
© Thornton Cohen
• Corcovado National Park: The park has a well-designed network of trails, ranger stations, and camping facilities. Most of the lodges in Drake Bay and Puerto Jiménez offer day hikes through the park, but if you really want to experience it, you should hike in and stay at one or more of the campgrounds. See “Puerto Jiménez: Gateway to Corcovado National Park,” in chapter 12.
• Cahuita National Park: Fronted by the Caribbean and a picture-perfect white-sand beach, the trails here are flat, well-maintained paths through thick lowland forest. Most of the way they parallel the beach, so you can hike out on the trail and back along the beach, or vice versa. White-faced and howler monkeys are common, as are brightly colored land crabs.