cover image

French
Comfort
Food

Hillary Davis

Photography by Steven Rothfeld

Gibbs Smith Logo

French Comfort Food

Digital Edition 1.0

Photographs © 2014 Steven Rothfeld

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced by any means whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except brief portions quoted for purpose of review.

Gibbs Smith

P.O. Box 667

Layton, Utah 84041

Orders: 1.800.835.4993

www.gibbs-smith.com

ISBN: 978-1-4236-3699-1

Photo of a French café.
Photo of a French café.
Photo of a French café.

French Comfort Food

Table of Contents

Introduction
The Flavors of France
Welcoming Starters and Savory Nibbles
Cheese Soufflés in a Mug
Light and Crispy Fish Fingers with RÉmoulade Dipping Sauce
Knitting Needle Spirals with Pistou
Ramekins of Chilled Tuna and Caper Spread
Ramekins of Warm Salmon, Wine, and Shallots
Ramekins of Warm Pork and Apples
Escargots Baked in Campari Tomatoes
Trio of Provençal Spreads
Individual Caramelized Onion and Roquefort Clafoutis
Niçoise Stuffed Vegetables
Savory Tomato Basil Cake
Mushroom Stew in Puff Pastry Cases
Brunch French Style
French Toast with Homemade Orange Butter
Wicked Chocolate Omelet Flamed with Rum
Alsatian Two-Crusted Meat Pie
Irresistible Potato, Cheese, and Cream Casserole
Tart Apple Turnovers
French Rolled Omelet with Cherry Tomatoes and Parmesan
Niçoise Onion, Black Olive, and Anchovy Quiche
Eggs Poached in Burgundy Wine on Garlic Croutons
Softly Scrambled Eggs with Peppers and Tomatoes
Bistro Salad with Poached Egg and Bacon
Crispy Cinnamon Walnut Chocolate Palmiers
Crusty Baguette with Melted Chocolate
French Press Coffee with Calvados Shooters
Champagne with Black Currant Liqueur
Thick Hot Chocolate
Soups, Sandwiches, and Simple Pleasures
French Onion Soup Gratinée
Périgord Garlic and Chicken Soup
Creamiest Potato and Leek Soup with Chopped Scallions and Crumbled Bacon
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Candied Chestnuts
Toasted Ham and Cheese Sandwich with Fried Egg
Toasted Ham, Blue Cheese, and Mozzarella Sandwich with Mustard Cream Sauce
Chilled Lyonnaise Potato and Sausage Salad
Summery Salade Niçoise Sandwiches
Baguette Sandwich with Ham and Sweet Butter
Rustic Country Pâté with Green Peppercorns and Pistachios
Olive Oil French Fries with Rosemary Salt
Heavenly Mashed Potatoes with Garlic and Melted Cheese
Family-Style Recipes
French Mac ’n’ Cheese
Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie
Chopped Steak Ovals with Roquefort Cognac Sauce
Succulent Roast Chicken with Oranges and Black Olives
Endives and Ham Gratin
Slow-Cooker Lamb Shanks Provençal
Potato, Bacon, Cheese, and Wine Casserole
Quick Beef and Red Wine Stew over Noodles
Chicken Marengo
Normandy Pork Chops with Apple Brandy Cream Sauce and Apple Compote
Slow-Cooker Layered Meats and Potato Casserole from Alsace
Chicken in Wine with Loads of Garlic
Rib-Sticking Pork and Vegetable Stew with Giant Dumplings
Creamless Creamy Veal Stew with Mushrooms and Pearl Onions
Supper for Friends
French Alps Cheese Fondue
Burgundy Beef Fondue with Dipping Sauces
Slow-Cooker Beans, Duck, Pork, Chicken, and Sausage Stew
Layered Vegetable Omelet Cake
Sea Scallops with Sauvignon Blanc Sabayon
Thick Grilled Steaks with Peppercorns and Cognac Sauce
Alsatian Sauerkraut and Meats Platter
Fresh Mussels in White Wine
Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce
Bistro Flank Steak with Port Sauce
Gascony Roast Leg of Lamb with Anchovies and Garlic
Grandmother’s Chicken
Over-the-Top Lobster Thermidor
Sweet Dreams
Banana Tart Tatin
Perfect Crème Caramel
Rice Pudding Empress Style with Custard, Candied Fruits, and Kirsch
Meringue Eggs on Orange Custard Sauce
No-Raw-Eggs Chocolate Espresso Mousse
Very Lemon Tart in a Butter Cookie Crust
Profiteroles Bathed in Dark Chocolate Sauce
Cream-Topped Apple Tart
Rum-Soaked Almond Cake from Nantes
Macaron Cookies from Nancy
Slightly Lemon Pound Cake with Strawberry Rhubarb Compote and Whipped Cream
Walnut Tart in Walnut Pastry
Noel Yule Log
Raspberry-Almond Mini-Cakes
Brie Melted in Box with Brown Sugar for Two
Acknowledgments
Metric Conversion Chart

Introduction

If one could describe heaven, for me it would be having a meal in a French restaurant and being able to have all my favorite dishes. There would be an intoxicating fragrance curling up towards my nose, a warmth spreading through me with each bite, a glow from the wine that I drink, a lack of a care in the world while I drag great hunks of warmed baguette through the most amazing sauces and devour each one, and it would have a generous dose of nostalgia. As a result, I would feel content and very happy. The only thing that could make it better would be sharing it with friends and loved ones.

This is what I call comfort food, heavenly when it is good, and totally satisfying.

Some of the best comfort food is French, and it is not that hard to make at home. In fact, many of the dishes are ones French families make every day because they are economical, hearty, and easy to prepare. Yearning for meatballs or shepherd’s pie? The French have their own versions. Beef stew over noodles? The French have a recipe for that, too. Mac and Cheese? Yes, again! Paul Bocuse’s recipe for gratin de macaronis has become a hugely popular recipe that French families make at home—minus the truffles! And when we get to desserts, well, there’s nothing quite as satisfying as dipping your spoon into a big bowl of dark chocolate mousse then running your finger along the inside of the bowl to capture every last bit, snacking on éclairs, or delving into a rich tarte Tatin covered with warm melted caramel sauce.

Photo of a French café.

I would go so far as to say that the French raise the bar on comfort food as we know it. They take mashed potatoes to a whole other level by whipping it with melted cheese to make a dish called aligot. They grill ham and cheese sandwiches, but then go one step further and top them with an egg that you pierce so it drips down over the cheese and ham in luscious rivulets.

There are dishes in every region of France that stand out as superb soul-soothers, the ones you would reach for on a gloomy day that are not well-known and not easily found in cookbooks. There’s the ancient dish, crespéou, a stunning vegetable omelet cake standing high on a plate surrounded by a glorious sauce you swipe your fork through. Or the potato, bacon, and melted cheese wonder from the alpine region of Savoy called tartiflette. What could be better than watching snowflakes fall while you tip your fork into this meltingly delicious casserole? Quite possibly, it could be another heartwarming, rich tasting casserole found in southwest France, called cassoulet, made with sausages and beans and duck. Once I tasted it, I fell in love and found myself searching for it in restaurants wherever I went. Now I have a way of cooking this labor-intensive dish at home in a slow cooker, and have included the recipe for you to try for yourself. And what about riz à l’Impératrice, a luscious rice pudding made with fruit; all the Normandy cider-apples-and-cream dishes; or Brittany’s butter cakes and cookies; French Alpine fondues; Alsatian quiches; Burgundy’s bœuf bourguignon and garlicy escargots; or the sun-drenched Midi’s much-loved fish soups and vegetable tians?

Photo of a food stand.

When I travel throughout France, I always read the menus of restaurants I pass by. When I spy dishes à l’ancienne (made the old-fashioned way), grand-mère (made the way grandmother made it), or en croûte (baked in a buttery crust—I love anything wrapped in dough and baked), I walk in. I know I’ll find the kind of dishes I yearn for, cooked in glossy earthenware and served in shiny copper pots, the kind of dishes that have no ambition other than to please the eye and warm the heart. If I’m delighted by a dish, I write down my impressions about how I think it might be made in my notebook, or I ask the chef if I can have guidance on how to make it.

The friends and acquaintances I’ve made over the years while living in France enjoy cooking and have been hospitable in sharing with me recipes handed down from their mothers and grandmothers and great-grandmothers—as well as their modern family remakes of the originals. Some of the recipes are nothing more than memories on paper, captured words that their mother used, like “a little of this,” “a pinch of that,” “then bake until done.” I have always collected family recipes wherever I have traveled or lived, because it’s my way of discovering the essence of a country, through its people and their food.

So with these resources, plus referring to my hundreds of well-worn cookbooks, I have brought together within these pages my favorite comfort food recipes from France. I hope they will inspire and charm you, reminding you of just how fabulous good home-cooked food from France can be. Come join me at the table! À table!

Photo of vegetables.
Photo of a food stand.
Photo of a sign.