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Everyday Raw Gourmet

Matthew Kenney

Photographs by Miha Matei

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Everyday Raw Gourmet

Digital Edition 1.0

Photographs © 2013 Miha Matei

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced by any means whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except brief portions quoted for purpose of review.

Gibbs Smith

P.O. Box 667

Layton, Utah 84041

Orders: 1.800.835.4993

www.gibbs-smith.com

ISBN: 978-1-4236-3560-4

Everyday Raw Gourmet

Table of Contents

Introduction
Blossom
Sweet Pea Flan with Macadamia Foam, Lime Powder, and Black Sesame Tuile
Cream of Matsutake Soup, Pignoli Dumplings, Pears, and Tarragon
Basil Black Pepper Wrappers, Macadamia “Cheese,” Cherry Tomatoes, and Avocado
Squash Blossoms with Pistachio Purée, Green Zebra Fondue, Pine Nuts, and Purple Basil
Ginger Cantaloupe “Gelato” and Watermelon Granité with Muscat Honeydew Purée
Frozen Chocolate Pudding with Cinnamon-Glazed Plums, Chocolate Basil Wafers, and Vanilla Bean–Plum Syrup
Marinated Tomato Salad, Pine Nut “Parmesan,” 
Basil Oil, Micro Greens, and Black Pepper
Golden Tomato and Lemon Cucumber Gazpacho with Avocado Salsa
Apricots with Star Anise Syrup and Crumble
Beet Ravioli with Fava Bean Purée and Green Herb Oil
Plum Carpaccio with Vanilla-Agave Syrup and Ginger Cream
Raspberry Parfait, Vanilla Bean Cream, Dark Chocolate Sauce, and Coconut Brittle
Contemporary
Black-and-White Tofu, Trumpet Mushroom Salad, Sesame Enoki Mushrooms, White Asparagus, and Miso Broth
Black Sesame and White Coconut Dumplings with Creamy Miso Sauce
Jackson Pollock Raviolo with Arugula Pesto
Shiitake Ravioli with Broccoli Rabe, Balsamic Fig Purée, and Ginger Cream
Green Tea Canneloni, Banana Lemongrass Cream, Almond “Gelato,” and Goji Lime Sauce
Ocean Vegetables and Squash Noodles with Oyster-Mushroom Escabeche, Faded Green Caviar, and Miso Tahini Sauce
Gnocchi of Broccoli Rabe with Ginger Cream Sauce, Concord Grape Chutney, Manchego Paper, and Dust of Three Leaves
Frozen Pumpkin Flan, Cinnamon Foam, and Mandarin Candy
Inspiration
White Corn Tamale, Serrano-Spiced Portobello, Raw Cacao Mole, and Guacamole
Bitter Broccoli Ravioli and Pine Nut “Cheese” in Chocolate Wrappers with Orange Powder and Pinot Noir Sauce
Chocolate Chili Tacos with Marinated Arugula, Pear Tomatoes, and Pignoli “Sour Cream”
Cinnamon Graham Cookie with Marshmallow Crème and Dark Chocolate Fondue
Cacao Crêpes and Sweet Mint Custard with Black Cacao Sauce
Frozen Mint Panna Cotta with Marshmallow Whip, Vanilla Wafers, and Bittersweet Cacao Sauce
Oreo Cookie with Cream Filling, Vanilla Bean “Ice Cream,” and Black Cocoa Syrup
Spice
Heirloom Tomato Pavé and Preserved Lemon Dressing with Green Olives and Pine Nuts
Shiitake Bisteeya with Ginger-Cilantro Sauce, Candied Almonds, and Wilted Spinach
Avocado Tartare with Tamarind-Glazed Cherry Tomatoes, Black Sesame Pappadam, and Curry Froth
Sweet Pea Samosas, Mint-Almond Chutney, and Pickled Lime “Yogurt”
White Raisin Shiitake Dosas, Cilantro Cream, and Ginger-Tomato Chutney
Creamy Mango Pudding, Cardamom Kulfi, and Crispy Lime Macaroon
Apricot “Yogurt” Cake, Sweet Cream, Pistachio Tuiles, and Anise Syrup
Radiance
Caribbean Conch Chowder
Roasted Sweet Pepper Soup, Basil Manti, and Hazelnut “Yogurt”
Spinach and Beet Ravioli, Cashew “Ricotta,” Wilted Spinach with Basil, and Wine Pear Sauce
Arugula Gnocchi, Sweet Pepper Sauce, Marinated Asparagus, and Pine Nut “Parmesan”
Creamy Eggplant and Hummus Cream in Almond Tart Shells with Green Olive Tapenade
Golden and Green Cannelloni with Sun-Dried 
Tomato–Ginger Marinara, Mint-Basil Pistachio Pesto, Green Zebra Tomatoes, and Pine Nut and Black Truffle “Ricotta”
Pine Nut Tartlet, Basil “Crème Fraîche,” and Sweet Tomatoes
Shiitake Moqueca and Coconut “Rice”
Revolution
Empanada de Espinaca y Salsa de Tomate: Empanada with Spinach, Tomato Relish, and Cilantro-Mint Purée
Hallacas Vegetarianas: Vegetable Tamales with Tomato-Chile Sauce
Picadillo Santiaguero, Arroz Amarillo, y Mariquitas: Portobello-Meat Stew with Yellow “Rice,” Crisp Plantain, and Macadamia “Sour Cream”
Natilla de Chocolate, Majarete y Turron de Coco: Chocolate Pudding, Sweet Corn Flan, Coffee-Cinnamon Syrup, and Crispy Chile Macaroons
Chile Rellenos, Monta-Raw Jack “Cheese,” and Cacao Mole
Chocolate Ancho Chile Tarts with Lime-Spiced Mango Chutney and Cinnamon Vanilla Cream
Oyster Mushroom Seviche and Bitter Orange–Lime Sauce
Tricolor Sesame-Cashew Dumplings and Sweet Chile–Lime Sauce
Empadinhas de Queijo: “Cheese” Empanadas
Meaningful
Zaru Somen and Sweet Dashi Sake Broth
Ba Bao Fan Blessing Eight-Treasure “Rice”: Candied Fruits with “Longan” Syrup
Mochi “Ice Cream”: Goji Berry, Vanilla Lemongrass, Green Tea
Cold Spicy Long-Life Noodles with Ginger Sauce
Vietnamese Pho Broth with Tofu
Fortune Cookies
Spicy “Fried” Spring Rolls with Sweet Tamarind Fondue
Thai Cucumber Salad
Metric Conversion Chart

Introduction

 

The goal of life is living in agreement with nature.

 
  —Zeno (335–264 BC)

Create—The first time I stepped into a raw food kitchen, I knew that I had discovered something magical. My senses had been on high alert as I remained deeply suspicious about uncooked food, and many years in professional kitchens had created a foundation of principles contrary to what I was about to experience. Yet I nearly became an instant convert, ready to forgo not only fire and heat but also the majority of ingredients that were the building blocks of my cuisine.

To this day, I still remain captivated by steaming pots of risotto, the hearty aromas of a wood-fired oven, and the intense flavor brought on by a long-simmering reduction. Yet nothing has ever captured my attention in a kitchen like the crisp smell of fresh ginger mingling with coriander and lime, as I entered that day. And nothing has held it like the explosive clean flavor of well-prepared raw organic foods.

My first year of preparing raw was somewhat challenging. Just as I was entering a phase of my career where the skills I had learned and experiences I had accumulated should have provided me with the tools I needed to cook at a higher, more mature level, I chose to discard everything and begin anew. Fortunately, it was a natural decision, taken not only for professional and creative reasons but also in light of my own personal preferences, which had begun to lean more and more toward a plant-based lifestyle. The choice led me to the most rewarding and creative experience of my life.

In the beginning, just as with traditional European-based cuisine, it was necessary to learn the basics. Instead of stocks and bases, searing and braising, I needed to experiment with Brazil nut milk and vegetable juice–based sauces and to focus on marinating and dehydrating as ways to intensify flavor. There were a few triumphs and many failures; but as I experimented more, dishes began to emerge that would open up a raw food world of unlimited potential. Over the next two years, I would begin to delineate two styles of raw food preparation: practical dishes that are faster to prepare at home or for a quick meal, and more elaborate dishes that require a bit more patience and effort. Those more elaborate dishes are largely what make raw food so remarkable. The health benefits and flavors of everyday raw food are incredible on many levels. As a chef, I am most inspired by the tastes, textures, and presentation of the more advanced recipes.

There is no denying that some of the best raw food dishes are downright challenging to prepare. Several steps may be involved, often beginning with “sprouting” nuts, seeds, or grains, and ending with as much as forty-eight hours of dehydration. Others may provide a bit more instant gratification. This book is written in honor of the more elaborate, but very worthwhile, recipes that challenge the cook and please the guest. The attention, persistence, and care that go into the recipes in this book deserve to be celebrated and enjoyed by those who are fortunate enough to eat them.

Share—In my earlier days with raw food, I often found myself shying away from preparing it for family and friends, instead finding a middle ground with perhaps vegetarian or vegan dishes. Over time, as my food evolved, I became more confident about people’s reaction to this incredible cuisine, and now I prepare it whenever I have the opportunity. Whether it be a simple raw lunch or an exquisite tasting menu, the impact and pleasures of raw food are, by and large, incomparable to other challengers.

No other culinary style offers the same vibrant, deep flavor without guilt or other effects that gourmet foods often have, such as a heavy feeling or fatigue. Raw food is the most colorful on the planet—it literally jumps off the plate! Raw is very modern, forgoing heavy sauces, dairy products, and breads, allowing each bite to pack maximum flavor. In every one of my raw dining experiences, I have found that the food ends up not only being enjoyed but also being used as a conversational piece, where guests marvel at their surprise to learn the food before them is composed of fruits, vegetables, nuts, and seeds, none of which have been cooked, canned, or processed in any way.

Some of the ideas are pretty “out there”—think Willy Wonka’s chocolate or Andy Warhol’s art factory, where unbounded creativity exists in an effort to pursue meaning and, in this case, the essence of raw food. My philosophy is guided by one stipulation: all of the culinary efforts shall be devoted to preparing the most advanced, flavorful, and realistic raw food anywhere. As long as my work considers those fundamental issues, I allow pretty much free reign to spontaneously experiment and create. The results should entertain not only guests but also the cook.

It is always a good idea to consider the balance of dishes that are served. My chapters provide some guidance in this area and highlight ways that food can be combined to make a statement beyond just taste. All of the recipes in this book are inspired by a season, emotion, or other value that relates to experimental cuisine. I believe that food for entertaining is more interesting if it relates to something larger, just as the best art and literature always offer a message beyond their respective beauty or story. A menu concept can be as straightforward as “summer” and as elaborate as something inspired by contemporary art. These concepts also provide more for guests to indulge in and will surprise the cook in how they also give a deeper appreciation for the food itself. Whereas French cuisine, for example, has centuries of history behind it, upscale raw food is relatively new, and these creative attachments help build its core personality.

Enjoy—As a home or professional cook, perhaps the greatest reward with this food is that you will have a better opportunity to be with your guests, because the food does not have to be warmed, reduced, heated, and taken out of the oven. Assuming the mis en place is taken care of, assembly is still required, but it will be much faster than usual to finalize the plates. Most of these recipes are not portioned in a traditional way, meaning that they provide the flexibility to be served on smaller plates or larger platters or, in most cases, at a large decorated table. They hold up well and many don’t need to be eaten right away. Having no pots and pans to wash is perhaps the final surprise.

On my own journey with raw food, I found challenge, excitement, flavor, health, and a new sense of creative direction. If this book offers you the same rewards, I think you’ll be well fed—and happy.

Guidance—Every book has a story—where its idea originated, what the message is, and how it should be used on a day-to-day basis. In writing this one, although the book has developed a personality of its own over time, my goal has always been to bring to life the many unique possibilities that raw food beholds. I am so personally impressed by raw food, and inspired on a regular basis, that I instinctively knew the kind of book I wanted to write from the beginning. Putting the words and recipes together was a far more complicated process, but it still happened naturally. The result is a very personal expression of how raw food fits into our daily lives, not only from a culinary but also an emotional perspective. In order to use Raw Gourmet most effectively, it would be beneficial to adapt your own personal approach to the information it offers. Allow my recipes and suggestions to serve as a guideline, always remembering that you are the chef in your kitchen. I offer a few suggestions as to how you may enjoy your experience even more.

Recipes are like roadmaps: They may offer the fastest way to arrive at a result, but your trip must take into account personal tastes, your schedule and sometimes even the weather. Although I may like something spicy, you may prefer it a bit sweet, or a dish that I’ve recommend you serve in a composed manner might be more appealing to you with its components kept separate. Time is something that we all value and never seem to have enough of. Therefore, it is always necessary with detailed recipes such as these, to read a recipe in its entirety, think about your approach and make decisions about what can be done ahead, of if there is a component you’d like to leave out. My comment about the weather is a very real one: humidity or dryness affects the texture of many raw food recipes and can dramatically alter dehydrating times, crispness, and even taste of some dishes. An ingredient in one part of the world may look the same but taste totally different than one from afar. Be open-minded and try to take the best route for you.

Think of this book as you might about fashion, creating your own combinations to suit personal tastes and preferences. There are really several recipes within each dish—dozens of sauces, garnishes, fillings, bases, and other elements. Each of these can be used as part of a meal, as an addition to a salad or dessert, or in any number of ways. My best suggestion is to read this book in its entirety, cover to cover, and get familiar with it, just like you might your own wardrobe. Think of it and all of its elements as part of your culinary arsenal and make use of it accordingly. Most of dishes in this book are structured as they would be in a restaurant environment or at an important event or celebration. Still, the basic elements and techniques of the book are all applicable on a regular basis, and can be used in the same way that much simpler recipes might be. Ideally, as a reader of the book, you will feel that your possibilities for raw food preparation have been expanded.

Every meal is a unique experience and, therefore, a recipe is simply a tool to help enhance that experience. While I have suggested how to present my recipes with photographs and assembly instructions, you may prefer to serve everything family style. Tacos, for example, would be great with the components in separate bowls and the naked shells available for everyone to choose from. Let guests fill them, make them part of that experience, and it usually works out well. I may use a garnish that you don’t have access to—it’s only a garnish, but changing a green, or removing spice here and there, will not seriously compromise a dish. You will often have leftover sauces or fillings. Some recipes are easier to produce in larger quantities and don’t work well in very small batches due to equipment limitations or other reasons. That said, I’ve never seen an extra cup or two of chocolate sauce, marshmallow cream, or raw ice cream go to waste. In fact, it may just be good for breakfast.

Just remember, it’s about the experience, not only with what’s on the plate, but how you arrived at the plate. If you’ve enjoyed it to that stage, you’ll have a great meal.