Published in 2007 by Stewart, Tabori & Chang
An imprint of Harry N. Abrams, Inc.
Text copyright © 2007 by Andrea Berman Price
Illustrations copyright © 2007 by Patti Pierce Stone
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or
by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording,
or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:
Price, Andrea Berman.
Knitspeak : an A to Z guide to the language of knitting patterns /
by Andrea Berman Price.
p. cm.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58479-632-9
ISBN-10: 1-58479-632-4
1. Knitting. 2. Knitting--Patterns. I. Title.
TT820.P755 2007
746.43’2041--dc22
2006101805
Project Editors: Linda Hetzer and Melanie Falick
Designer: Sarah Von Dreele
Production Manager: Jacqueline Poirier
The text of this book was composed in Baufy, Interstate and Jansen.
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PART I
INTRODUCTION
PATTERN READING BASICS
PART II
AN A–Z GUIDE TO KNITSPEAK
SYMBOLS
A–Z
PART III
APPENDIX
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Knitspeak def.
A combination of words, abbreviations, numbers, and punctuation that is unintelligible to the average human and – unfortunately – to the new knitter.
Welcome to the vast and sometimes bewildering world of knitting patterns. You are in good company if, after making a few scarves, you figured you were ready for the next step, chose a pattern, and then found yourself confused by the directions. Knitting students often say that the instructions look like they are written in a foreign language and, in a way, they are. I call this language Knitspeak.
This book is designed to help you decipher Knitspeak, which you may be surprised to learn has a real logic to it. For each symbol, term, and abbreviation that you are likely to come upon in a pattern, you will find a short explanation of what it means and what is important to know when you see it in instructions. This book gives you the tools you need to be able to read and use patterns; it is not a definitive reference guide to knitting. It is meant to live in your knitting bag so that, wherever you are, you’ll never have to stop knitting because you can’t understand your pattern.
Do not be alarmed if you learned a way to do something that is different than is described here. People have been knitting for centuries all over the world, and have developed tricks and techniques that they have passed on to their family members, friends, and acquaintances. Because of this, it is just about impossible to say that there is a single “right” or “wrong” way to do anything. On the other hand, if you are new to knitting and stuck, it is helpful to have one right answer to use, at least for the time being, and that is what you will find here. If you are interested, you can, of course, delve deeper into the subject by asking other knitters for help and referring to the many wonderful encyclopedic reference books available.
Using Knitspeak
The first section of this book gives an overview of how knitting patterns are organized and how to read them effectively. The second section gives terms in alphabetical order, starting with numbers and symbols, then abbreviations and whole phrases, spelled out. The Appendix is filled with useful tips and resources.
If you don’t read anything else, READ THIS! Following are nine tips to help make reading a pattern written in Knitspeak easier.
1.
Before you begin a new pattern, READ it over lightly to get a sense of the instructions. You may have to rely on faith that the pattern will make sense as the knitting develops. Take a look at the schematic (a diagram of the finished pieces of the project) if one is provided. If a schematic isn’t given, try sketching out the directions for each piece in order to understand how the project is constructed.
2.
COPY the pattern. Photocopying for redistribution violates more than a few copyright laws, but making one copy of the pattern for personal use is usually acceptable. Keep the copy in a plastic sleeve and take it out to write notes on it.
3.
REVIEW the pattern’s list of abbreviations, and if it has charts, the key to its charts.
4.
Scan through the pattern instructions to see if you understand most of the TERMS. Look up any that you don’t know and you’re immediately curious about in this book. It’s not necessary to know everything before you start.
5.
If the instructions are given for more than one size, you will see numbers in PARENTHESES. Use a highlighter marker to mark the directions for the size you are making.
6.
Scan the pattern for the phrase “AT THE SAME TIME…” and highlight it.
7.
Read the FINISHING section to see if there is anything you need to know before you start.
8.
Knit a SWATCH, wash it as you plan to wash the finished project, and block it. Measure the swatch and adjust your needle size, if need be, to get the desired number of stitches per inch.
9.
Decide if there are SPECIAL TECHNIQUES or alterations you want to use throughout the pattern, such as slipping the first stitch of each row or making the sleeves 2” (5 cm) shorter, and write down these decisions on your copy of the pattern.
If you are new to pattern reading, you may be confused by the ways letters, numbers, and punctuation are combined in a sentence. If knitting patterns seem more like computer code than craft to you, you are not far off. Knitspeak is a series of logical, linear operations. The instructions build line by line, like a code that tells a computer what to do, step by step.
Sentences in Knitspeak are like commands and most often start with a verb and then describe the details of the command.
Here is an example of a phrase you might find at the beginning of a sweater pattern:
In Knitspeak:
CO 48
Work k2, p2 rib for 2" (5 cm), ending on a WS row.
This is what it would look like written out:
Cast on 48 stitches
Knit 2, purl 2, and repeat that sequence for the entire row. Continue in knit 2, purl 2 rib until the piece measures 2" (5 cm) from the cast-on edge. Make sure the last row you worked was on the nonpublic side of the garment, the one that will be on the inside of the sweater when it is worn. You should be ready to knit a right-side row (the public side) at the next line of instructions.
Pay attention to closing statements like “ending on a wrong side row” because the next set of instructions will assume that you will be starting from that point. Or you might find a closing statement like “Increase 7 stitches evenly across row (98 stitches).” This is a reality check, i.e., when you have finished increasing, you should have 98 stitches. This way, you can check your work before you go any further.
Commas, asterisks, and parentheses are used to set apart repeated actions that are part of a larger set of instructions. Here is an everyday example that may sound silly, but it shows how a simple action would be translated into the syntax of Knitspeak:
An everyday example:
Make a shopping list. Bring it to the store. Go through the aisles, *find item, put in shopping cart, repeat from * until all items on your list have been loaded into the cart.
Here is a similar example in Knitspeak:
Cast on 60.
*Knit 4, purl 6, repeat from * to end of row.
Do not be put off if you cannot visualize the result in your head the first time you encounter this kind of sentence in a pattern. Sometimes you have to take it one line at a time, and trust that when you see how the knitting develops, it is likely to make more sense.
A pattern can be divided into parts for a clearer understanding.
A) PHOTO
Sometimes the photo of the item will help you figure out the instructions. For example, a sweater photo may help you understand the intended fit, neckline style, and sleeve type, as well as how pieces are attached to each other once they are finished.
B) SIZES
This section tells you the sizes for which instructions are given. Letters like S, M, L, and XL may be given or the sizes may be given in finished measurements only. If the sizes are given as S, M, L, and XL, always check the finished measurements also, as the pattern writer’s idea of a certain size may not match yours. If only one measurement is given for a sweater, it will be the chest/bust measurement. The measurements given are the finished measurements of the garment, which are typically larger than the actual body measurements of the intended wearer. The difference is called EASE.
C) MATERIALS
This section tells you what kind of yarn, needles, and notions you need for the project. If you cannot find the yarn indicated in the pattern, you can substitute another one that is similar. Finding the right yarn requires an awareness of the properties of different yarns and a sense of artistry, as well as good judgment. See Guidelines for Substituting Yarns on page 192.
D) GAUGE
This section tells you at which gauge you need to knit—that is, how many stitches and rows per inch of knitted fabric—in order to create an item of the desired size. To knit at the specified gauge, you may need to use needles larger or smaller than the pattern’s recommended size. For more on this topic, see Gauge on page 81.
E) STITCH PATTERNS AND/OR NOTES
A set of instructions may be given in a separate box for a sequence of stitches that make up a pattern. The instructions may direct you, for example, to “Knit in Pattern A for 4" (10 cm),” so you would follow Pattern A in the box for that section. The same stitch pattern may also be shown on a chart.
In addition, notes may be given on how the project is constructed. These notes may be general or specific, depending on the pattern writer’s style and the complexity of the project.
F) INSTRUCTIONS
Instructions can be given row by row in prose; they can be visual, with schematics, charts, and photos; or they can be any combination of these elements.
Some people need to visualize how an item is taking shape before they can understand written instructions. Others work better by reading line by line and watching the item develop as they go. If you prefer visuals and your pattern has few, try using graph paper to sketch out the directions. If you prefer prose, but the pattern has a lot of charts, you may want to write out the instructions line by line.
At the beginning of the instructions, the pattern may list notes that apply to the entire pattern. Don’t hesitate to make additional notes on the pattern to make it more understandable.
G) FINISHING
The section on finishing (or “making up”) describes how the project will be assembled once the pieces are complete. It is important to read this section before you begin, as it may have implications for the way the project is knitted.
H) CHART
A chart is knitting directions shown in a grid format using symbols (for which a key is usually given) instead of words. See Guidelines for Reading Charts on page 55.
I) SCHEMATIC
Often patterns include a diagram—called a schematic—showing the shape and finished measurements of the pieces of the project. For more on this topic, see Schematic on page 149.
J) ABBREVIATIONS
Patterns sold individually usually include a list of the abbreviations they use. Most books and magazines contain a list for the publication as a whole. While some abbreviations are in common use through most parts of the industry, many are not standardized. This book contains explanations of the most commonly used abbreviations. Always review the abbreviations list and key that come with a pattern, as the definitions they contain will naturally supersede those in this book if they are different.
Directions for different sizes
Patterns are often written so that one set of directions covers several sizes, which can result in long strings of numbers that are challenging to read. Parentheses are used to separate instructions for the smallest size from additional sizes. See ( ) Parentheses on page 26.
Directions for similar pieces
Sometimes pattern writers save space by giving instructions for two similar pieces at the same time, such as a sweater back and front. The directions are given in their entirety for the back and, for the front, will say something like “Work as for back until piece measures 17” (43 cm).” You will then find specific instructions for any section of the front that is different than the back.
Directions where shaping is reversed
Many patterns give the entire set of instructions for one side of the front of a cardigan or a neckline, and then direct you to reverse shaping when working the other side. In a case like this, if you feel the need for more specific instruction, you can write out the reversed instructions for the second side, line by line, or you can create a SCHEMATIC on graph paper to help you visualize how the shaping will go on the other side. For example, suppose the left front is worked first, with instructions like “dec 1 st at neck edge every 4 rows 14 times.” This means decreasing at the end of right-side rows. To reverse shaping for the right front, you’d decrease at the beginning of right-side rows.
Directions for several sizes or gauges in fill-in-the-blank format
Some patterns are written out in sentences, but blank spaces are left in places where you need to fill in the correct number for the size or gauge you are making.
Here is an example of a fill-in-the-blank type of layout:
In this example, you would cast on 72, 76, or 80 stitches (depending on your size), then increase 0 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows for the small size, 1 stitch for the medium, and 2 stitches for the large.
As in any language, Knitspeak contains words that mean different things depending on context. For example, you might tell a friend that you are sitting on the front porch knitting, when in fact you are knitting and purling. In this case you are using the word knitting in a general way. At the yarn store, you might ask a knitting teacher, Should I be knitting or purling in this section? In this case, you are using the same word to mean making a knit stitch. To get around this, many patterns use the word work instead of knit. To work means to make stitches; these stitches could be knit or purl. For example, work in knit 1, purl 1 rib means to alternate knitting and purling in the same row. For more on words with multiple meanings, see Knitspeak Doublespeak on the next page.
In Knitspeak, as in any language, words can have different meanings depending on the context in which they are used. Following are some common examples.
Knit
1. To create fabric using knitting needles, as opposed to a crochet hook or a loom
2. To create a knit stitch, as opposed to a purl stitch
Pattern
1. The set of instructions for creating a knitted item
2. A combination of stitches that creates a certain knitted fabric, as in stitch pattern
Stitch
1. One loop of yarn on your needles
2. A way of manipulating the loops of yarn on your needles—for example, a knit stitch, a purl stitch, or a yarn over
3. Another way of saying stitch pattern–for example, Seed stitch and Stockinette stitch are the names of two stitch patterns
Seam
1. As a verb, seam means to sew up
2. As a noun, the seam is the place where two pieces are sewn together
Weave
1. To tuck the ends into the wrong side of the knitting
2. A technique for securing long pieces of yarn (called floats) when working with more than one color in a row
3. Techniques for joining two pieces of knitted fabric
Right side
1. The outside or public side, in contrast to wrong side or nonpublic side
2. The right side, as opposed to left side. When used in this sense, right side refers to the wearer’s right side, not the viewer’s right side
Some information is not included in patterns because the pattern writer assumes the knitter knows these things or will apply her or his own creativity to the work, or because there isn’t enough space to include every detail. Experienced knitters have a good sense of where to add and alter, but beginners and intermediates may not even know that options exist.
This book includes many of these tips and tricks in the alphabetical listing of terms beginning on page 25.
To get you started, here are some of the most common assumptions:
Bind off in pattern unless otherwise indicated
Patterns do not always specify, but for best results, bind off in the pattern you are working. In other words, if you are working a pattern of knit 2, purl 2, either knit or purl each stitch before you bind it off, just as if you were continuing to work without binding off. For more bind-off tips, see page 46.
Knit separately means add in a new ball of yarn
To knit two sections separately, you have to add in a new ball of yarn so that each section may be knit from its own ball. For example, add a new ball at the base of a V-neck so that you can knit the right front and the left front of a sweater at the same time, alternating one row in one section from its ball with one row of the other section from the other ball. See At the same time.
Finishing techniques are employed throughout the knitting, not just at the end
There are techniques that knowing knitters use to make their finished products look great and fit well. Some of these finishing techniques must be planned at the beginning, such as working increases and decreases a couple of stitches in from a piece’s edges to leave smooth edges for easier seaming. Some designers include these techniques in their patterns as a matter of course while others give only the basic requirements and leave it to the knitter to decide whether or not to include these niceties.
Block the pieces before sewing seams
See Block