Quito Ecuador & Its Surroundings

 



Peter Krahenbuhl


 

Hunter Publishing, Inc.


 

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC,

www.hunterpublishing.com


 

Ulysses Travel Publications

4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec

Canada H2W 2M5

tel. 514-843-9882, ext. 2232; fax 514-843-9448


 

Windsor Books

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tel. 01865-361122; fax 01865-361133


 


© 2009 Hunter Publishing, Inc.


 

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, liability for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

 

  1. Preface
  2. About the Author
  3. Introduction
    1. Adventure Awaits
    2. Ecuador, the Country
      1. Adventure Overview
      2. Location
      3. History & Politics
        1. Pre-Inca
        2. Inca Invasion
        3. Brothers Divide as the Spanish Arrive
        4. The Colonial Era
        5. The Church, Haciendas & Recession
        6. Independence
        7. Internal Strife & the Political Economy
        8. Modern Ecuador
        9. The Conflict between Ecuador & Peru
        10. Ecuador Today
      4. Geography/Land
      5. Climate
      6. Flora & Fauna
        1. Mammals
        2. Birds
        3. Reptiles & Amphibians
        4. Insects
        5. Plants
      7. People/Culture
      8. Cuisine
      9. Government
      10. The Economy
  4. Travel Information
    1. When to Go
    2. Getting Here
    3. Getting Around
      1. Camionetas
    4. What to Bring
      1. Luggage
      2. Clothing & Footwear
      3. Equipment
    5. Customs & Entry
    6. Leaving Ecuador
    7. Money Matters
      1. Currency
      2. Your Money
      3. Travel Expenses
      4. Taxes & Gratuities
      5. Embassies
    8. Health & Safety
      1. Vaccinations
      2. Travel Insurance
      3. Food & Drinking Water
      4. Toilets
      5. Security
      6. Medical Facilities & Doctors
        1. Major Medical Facilities
        2. Doctors
    9. Communication
      1. Telephone Service
      2. Internet Access
      3. Mail
      4. Newspapers
    10. Time Zone
    11. Electricity
    12. Language
      1. Studying Spanish
    13. Women & Children Travelers
    14. Disabled Travelers
    15. Gay & Lesbian Travelers
    16. Holidays & Festivals
  5. Eco-Travel
    1. State of the Environment
      1. Coastal Ecuador
      2. The Sierras
      3. Amazon Deforestation & Development
    2. Reserves & National Parks
    3. Adventure & Outdoor Activities
      1. Hiking, Trekking & Mountaineering
      2. Rafting & Kayaking
      3. Horseback Riding
      4. Mountain Biking
      5. Birding, Nature Viewing & Photography
      6. Cultural Tourism
      7. Island Excursions in the Galápagos
    4. Tour Operators & Guides
      1. Eco-Rating
  6. Quito & Vicinity
    1. History
    2. Flora & Fauna
    3. Getting Here
    4. Getting Around
    5. Visitor Information
      1. Tourist Offices
      2. Hospitals
      3. Post Offices, Call Centers & Internet Access
      4. Banks
      5. Maps
      6. Studying Spanish in Quito
    6. Touring & Sightseeing
      1. Quito
        1. A Walking Tour
        2. Museums
        3. Parks
        4. Vírgin of Quito
      2. Around Quito
        1. Guapulo Suburb
        2. El Mitad del Mundo (Equatorial Monument)
        3. Solar Museum
    7. Adventures near Quito
      1. On Foot
        1. Pasochoa Reserve
        2. Pichincha Volcano
      2. On Horseback
        1. Hoofing it through Pululahua National Reserve
      3. On Wheels
    8. Tour Operators & Guides
    9. Eco-Travel
      1. Reserves
        1. Pululahua Geobotanical Reserve
        2. Pasochoa Forest Reserve
      2. Hot Springs
        1. Papallacta Hot Springs
    10. Where to Stay
      1. Old Town
      2. New Town
        1. Outside Quito
        2. Camping
    11. Where to Eat
    12. Entertainment, Nightlife & Shopping
      1. Nightspots
      2. Cinema
      3. Shopping
  7. Appendix
    1. Additional Resources
      1. Learning the Language
        1. DAYS OF THE WEEK
        2. MONTHS OF THE YEAR
        3. NUMBERS
        4. CONVERSATION
        5. TELLING TIME
        6. DIRECTIONS
        7. ACCOMMODATIONS
      2. Tourist Information
      3. Online Sources of Information
      4. Recommended International Tour Companies
    2. Ecotourism in Ecuador

 

Getting Around

By Air

Many internal flights are with TAME, including those to the Galápagos, as well as major towns throughout the Andes, Oriente and along the coast. Other local airlines include SAN, the internal flight subsidiary of SAETA. Domestic flights are worthwhile, especially if you are heading deep into the Oriente and they are less expensive than flying direct to the Galápagos. Prices generally range from $40 to $120, depending on your destination. Flights to the Galápagos, on the other hand, cost $390 from Quito during high season, as the islands are 600 miles from the mainland. Ecuador's international airline, SAETA, and its domestic sister company, SAN, also offer flights between major cities and San Cristóbal Island in the Galápagos. You can make arrangements with other Ecuadorian carriers through travel agents in Quito. Quito's domestic terminal is adjacent to the international terminal. See airline contact information above for airline details.

Public Transportation

Ecuador's public transportation and travel infrastructure is fairly well developed. Public buses are frequent, inexpensive, and increasingly located around central terminals in each town. In fact, they are the easiest and most efficient way to travel around Ecuador. Buses are the main form of transportation for many Ecuadorians and, therefore, they travel to virtually every corner of the country. Each village, town and city will have easy access to bus transportation, whether it's in the form of a major bus terminal or by a dusty street-side general store. And, believe it or not, some buses are almost comfortable and clean. Roads are decent in most regions and long-distance travel is straightforward (sometimes made a bit too thrilling by "enthusiastic" bus drivers). Just make sure you know where to get off the bus so you can tell the driver where to stop.

Camionetas

Camionetas are trucks, mostly privately owned, that generally wait at local plazas or in the busy areas of smaller towns. Fares are in the same range as taxis, but camionetas are more durable in the backcountry. In addition, they are much more convenient than buses for taking you to remote areas and are very economical if you have a few people willing to split the cost. It is always a good idea to negotiate a price before the journey begins.

Taxis are a good way to get around in Quito and Guayaquil. If you're staying for an extended period, however, you may want to try and learn the bus system.

  • Guard your belongings in crowded big city terminals and on public buses.

  • By Boat

    Where bus routes end, you have probably come to a waterway. At this point, boat transportation begins. This is particularly true around the northern coastal tropical forest region and throughout the entire Oriente. Waterway transportation is usually in the form of motorized dugout canoes. Although more expensive than buses, boats are also fast and efficient.

    Hitching a Ride

    In the more remote areas of the highlands, you can often hop in the back of a pickup truck and ride with the locals. This is a great way to travel and enjoy the spectacular scenery, as long as you don't mind the minor discomfort of a hard wooden seat. On the coast, trucks and open-sided bus-truck hybrids, called rancheras, sometimes substitute for a bus. Pay the driver whatever he asks, which should be only small change, usually similar to the bus fare.

    By Rail

    Once connecting the coast with the Andes, Ecuador's rail system was largely damaged by the 1997 El Niño and is often in disrepair, as the more efficient roadways have largely replaced its value. Now, it is more suitable for sightseeing than transportation. The Riobamba/Alausí line through the Devil's Nose runs several times per week and is a spectacular journey.

    Renting a Car

    Renting an automobile is an option that offers the flexibility of seeing the country at your own pace. Prices are the same as in the US or Canada. Be sure to check the condition of the car and insurance terms thoroughly. Keep in mind that driving in Ecuador can be crazy. And road conditions, especially in more remote areas, but also on the major thoroughfares, are poor and flat tires are a dime a dozen. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended for many areas. See Quito and Vicinity, and the Guayaquil section, for specific rental information.

  • Many roadways in Ecuador are not only unmarked, but they may have no names other than "via a...," meaning "the way to...." Road conditions can be hazardous. Be cautious of other drivers, especially bus and truck drivers, and always expect that they will try to pass, even on blind turns. Still, driving in the Andean countryside is easy compared to the major cities.

What to Bring

Having spent years guiding tours, traveling and meeting other international travelers, I am the first to admit that everyone packs and prepares differently. Clothing, especially, is a personal thing. What works for one person may be unsuitable for another. The following, however, is a list of essentials.

Luggage

Bring one day-pack in addition to your luggage bag/backpack. This should be big enough to carry a water bottle, camera, raingear and any items that you may want to have accessible during the day.

An extra fold-up bag is good for any souvenir purchases you may wish to make.

Clothing & Footwear

  • A trip to the Galápagos does not require as much as what's suggested below.
  • Waterproof rain jacket and rain pants (Gore-tex, preferably).
  • Long-sleeve thermal insulating shirt (for when the temperature drops). Preferably not cotton.
  • A combination of mostly short- and a few long-sleeve shirts if you are going to the Oriente or Galápagos; or more long-sleeve and fewer short-sleeve if you are spending all of your time in the Andes.
  • Two or three pairs of hiking shorts. Although shorts are considered inappropriate by traditional standards in the highlands - especially on women - they are tolerated on tourists at the beaches, in the Galápagos and in the jungle.
  • Two pairs of trousers - cotton or nylon hiking pants or lightweight pants. Jeans are not recommended, though I always seem to bring a pair, as they are heavy, bulky, and take a long time to dry if they get wet.
  • Enough undergarments and socks to get you through to the next wash. Socks should be non-cotton, quick-dry and warm for the Sierras.
  • If you are spending time in the backcountry of the highlands, you will need more gear and layers, including a durable waterproof jacket, a fleece (warm synthetic mid-layer), and warm underlayers (long underwear made of synthetic material, such as polypropylene).
  • Swimsuit.
  • A couple of clothing changes for the evening (casual and compact).
  • Hat with visor for rain and sun protection.
  • Lightweight hiking boots, running shoes or cross-trainers that can be used for multiples activities.
  • Comfortable shoes to be worn around town.
  • Sport sandals.

  • Equipment

  • Sunglasses with UV protection.
  • Sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher (the sunscreen sold in Ecuador is generally poor).
  • Camera (with film and extra batteries). In the Galápagos, one roll of film per day might not be enough.
  • Travel alarm clock or wristwatch.
  • Insect repellent for the jungle.
  • Lip balm/moisturizer with UV protection.
  • Toiletry kit (toothbrush, toothpaste, shampoo, brush).
  • Hand lotion/skin moisturizer.
  • First aid kit (aspirin, Band-Aids, personal medications, including prescription-strength anti-diarrhea drugs, eye drops, tampons). Be sure to keep prescriptions in the original bottle and carry the prescription with you.
  • Foot care kit - moleskin or second skin, athletic tape, and a pair of small scissors.
  • Binoculars.
  • Guidebook (preferably this one), novel, journal.
  • Water bottle.
  • Small flashlight with extra batteries and bulb.
  • Extra prescription glasses (if applicable) and a pair of glasses if you wear contact lenses.
  • A strap (such as Croakies) to secure glasses to your head (especially important on the river).
  • Plastic zip-lock and garbage bags (great for keeping dry things dry and wet things separate).

Customs & Entry

Foreign travelers need a passport that is valid for at least six months after arrival. You should always carry your passport with you during your visit. Upon arrival, you will receive a tourist card to fill out from the airline (prior to landing), which you should carry at all times. You will need it for stay extensions, passport checks and leaving the country. US and EU citizens are not required to have a visa for travel in Ecuador. Citizens from a few countries in other continents should inquire with their embassy. In addition to your passport and tourist card, you officially need a ticket out of the country, although Immigration officials rarely ask to see it.

It is always a good idea when traveling to photocopy the important pages of your passport and keep them separate, in case your passport is lost or stolen. Note that you are required by law to carry your passport with you at all times. On the back of the photocopy, list emergency phone numbers, as well as the numbers of travelers checks, airline tickets, and credit cards. It's also wise to photocopy your airline ticket and insurance policies. Keep these copies in a separate place from your travel wallet - back at your hotel, for example. Chances are you won't have to use any of these, but having them will make life easier if something gets lost. Leave additional copies of all of these documents, as well as your itinerary and any contact numbers, at home with a friend or family member.

  • If you are a student, be sure to acquire an International Student Identity (ISIC) card, as it may allow for discounts on airfares and at some hostels, museums and other attractions. For more information, visit www.istc.org.

  • Most flights to Quito from the US land late at night. Unfamiliar travelers will notice quickly upon entering the airport terminal that this is a whole new world. Take it in stride as you pull out your passport/return ticket/tourist card and pass through Immigration. You will probably be asked how long you want to stay (90 days is the maximum). Show them your tourist card, which they will stamp with the proper number of days, as well as your passport. Check to make sure the dates are legible and correct before leaving in order to avoid potential confusion later. After passing through Customs and picking up your luggage, catch a taxi to downtown and your hotel if you aren't being picked up. Taxis should not cost more than $3-$4, so make sure to ask before you hop into the cab, as Quito taxi drivers are notorious for overcharging, especially late at night.

  • Quito's Mariscal Sucre International Airport can become quite crowded. Keep an eye on your luggage at all times and be wary of unofficial baggage boys that start carrying away your bags for a tip without your asking. Note that there are official airport porters. If you allow a street porter to assist you, stay glued to his side and choose your own taxi.

Leaving Ecuador

Be sure to re-confirm your flight three days ahead of departure and arrive at the airport three hours before the scheduled departure for international flights. If this means leaving for the airport at 4 am, be sure to arrange a taxi the night before. Departure tax is US$25 and is payable in cash only when you check in.

Money Matters

Currency

Until recently, Ecuadorian currency was the sucre, which fluctuated drastically with the rise and fall of the oil and export markets. As of September 2000, the official currency has been the US dollar. In a few more remote and isolated locations, as well as smaller towns and villages, remnants of the sucre may exist (the last exchange rate was US$1 to 25,000 sucres). Note that it is very difficult to shop with or change bills of more than $20 due to counterfeiting.

  • The US dollar is a very touchy issue in Ecuador, as it represents the huge gap between the haves and the have-nots, as well as being perceived as the symbol of increased cost of living to the common Ecuadorian. B e sensitive to this. Be inconspicuous with money and modest in attire during your travels.

  • Your Money

    Travelers checks are recommended if you are traveling with a good amount of money. American Express checks are the most common and can be exchanged at most major banks and high-end hotels. Change travelers checks in major cities and provincial capitals, including Quito, Guayaquil and Cuenca, as smaller towns may not have facilities to do so. Tourist-oriented towns, such as Baños, can also exchange travelers checks, but may charge more for it. Note that there are a few exchange houses, known as casas de cambio, left over from the days of the sucre, which can also exchange travelers checks quickly.

    Credit cards - particularly Visa, MasterCard and, in some places, American Express and Diners - are readily accepted in most major tourist areas and at mid- and higher-level hotels. ATMs are readily available in the major cities, generally at the same banks that accept credit cards. Don't depend on ATMs, though, as they can be unreliable. Worse, when they are really hungry, they sometimes eat cards.

    Bring travelers checks, rather than cash, and transfer checks to dollars in major cities as your trip progresses. A credit card is a great backup. It is always a good idea to split up your money in at least two different places. Always keep the majority of your funds, travelers checks and credit cards, along with a copy of your passport, back at the hotel in a secure room or safe deposit box. In addition, I always keep a few emergency bills in a zipper belt. Small bills are the best for spending money, but, whatever you do, don't carry anything loose in your pockets unless you are prepared to part with it.

    Travel Expenses

    Overall, travel in Ecuador is extremely inexpensive by Western standards. With persistent budgeting, it is possible to get by on $10 per day, although this means economizing at the very low-end hotels. The budget traveler does well on $15 per day and lives large at $25 per day. The latter will usually include comfortable and relatively nice accommodations, often with breakfast and possibly dinner. The mid-level traveler will do just fine at $25-$50 per day in the major towns, but expect to pay more at the nicer ecolodges and on package tours.

    Prices for tour operators and outfitters vary, depending on the quality of the organization. At the bottom end, you'll pay $25 per day for a jungle excursion, including vehicle transportation, accommodations, and guide services. At this price, however, do not expect a licensed, top-quality, or even responsible outfitter. At the high end, an overnight mountaineering trip to the summit of a snowcapped volcano will cost about $200, everything included. All other prices for adventure and nature activities generally fall within this range. Galápagos excursions run $100-$200 per day for a five- or eight-day mid-range or mid-range-plus tour (classified as tourist to tourist superior vessels). Obviously, luxury-class tours cost more and economy-class vessels may run quite a bit lower.

    Taxes & Gratuities

    Many of the more tourist-oriented restaurants include a 10% surcharge on the tab, and some even add an additional service charge (usually 5%), in which case you may not want to give an extra gratuity. A good rule of thumb for tipping in the service industry is 10-15%, whether it is in a restaurant, for a guide or for a boatsman. If you join a $50-per-day tour, it is perfectly reasonable to tip the guide $5 per person per day, usually a bit less for a driver. All of this, of course, is dependent upon quality of service. I find this particularly true with taxi drivers. If your driver is blatantly trying to overcharge for a fare from the airport to the hotel, then it is perfectly fair not to tip. If the driver is honest and helpful and uses the taxi meter, then a gratuity will only reinforce quality service and honesty.

    Embassies

    Argentina

    Edificio Río Amazonas, Av. Amazonas 477, between Roca and Robles, 5th Floor, tel. 2-2562-992, fax 2-2568-177, Mon-Fri, 9 am-1:30 pm.

    Austria

    Veintimilla 878 and Amazonas, tel. 2-2524-811, Mon-Fri, 10 am-12 pm.

    Belgium

    Juan León Mera 863 and Wilson, tel. 2-2567-633/2545-340, Mon-Thurs, 9 am-12 pm, and 2:30-5 pm on Mon and Wed.

    Brazil

    Amazonas 1429 and Colón, Edificio España, 9th Floor, tel. 2-2563-086, Mon-Fri, 9 am-3 pm.

    Canada

    6 de Diciembre 2816 and James Ort, tel. 2-2543-214, fax 2-2503-108, Mon-Fri, 9:30 am-4 pm.

    Colombia

    Colón 1133 and Amazonas, 7th Floor, tel. 2-2228-926/2221-969, Mon-Fri, 10 am-1 pm and 2-5 pm.

    Costa Rica

    Calle Rumipamba 692 between Amazonas and República, tel. 2-2254-945/2256-016, fax 2-2254-087, Mon-Fri, 8 am-1:30 pm.

    Chile

    Juan Pablo Sanz 3617 and Amazonas, Edificio Xerox, 4th Floor, tel. 2-2453-327, fax 2-2444-470, Mon-Fri, 8 am-3 pm.

    Taiwan

    Rep de El Salvador 733 and Portugal, Edificio Gabriela 3, 2nd Floor, tel. 2-4259-357, Mon-Fri, 8 am-12 pm, 2-5 pm.

    China

    Atahualpa 349 and Amazonas, tel. 2-2458-337/2458-927, Mon-Thurs, 9 am-12 pm, 3-4 pm, Fri, 9 am-12 pm.

    Denmark

    Rep de El Salvador 733 and Portugal, Edificio Gabriela 3, 3rd Floor, tel. 2-2437-163, fax 2-2436-942, Mon-Fri, 9:30 am-12:30 pm, 3-6 pm.

    France

    Embassy: Leonidas Plaza 107 and Patria, tel. 2-2560-789, fax 2-2566-424, Mon-Fri, 9-12, 3-5; Consulate: Diego de Almagro 1550 and Pradera, Edificio Kingman, 2nd Floor, 2-2543-110, Mon-Fri, 9-12, 3-5.

    Germany

    Av. Patria and 9 de Octubre, Banco de Colombia Building, tel. 2-2225-660/2567-231/2567-231 (after-hours emergency), Mon-Fri, 9 am-12 pm.

    Great Britain

    Citiplaza Building, 14th floor, Naciones Unidas and República de El Salvador, tel. 

    Ireland

    Antonio de Ulloa 2654 and Rumipamba, tel. 2-2451-577, Mon-Fri, 9-11 am, 3-6 pm.

    Israel

    Eloy Alfaro 969 and Amazonas, tel. 2-2565-510/511, fax 2-2504-635, Mon-Fri, 8:30 am-4:30 pm.

    Italy

    Isla 111 and Humberto Albornoz, tel. 2-2561-077, Mon-Fri, 10 am-12 pm.

    Japan

    Juan León Mera 130 and Patria, Edificio de La Corporación Financiera Nacional, 7th Floor, tel. 2-2561-899, fax 2-2503-670, Mon-Fri, 9:30 am-12 pm, 2:30-5:30 pm.

    Mexico

    6 de Diciembre 4843 and Naciones Unidas, tel. 2-2457-820, fax 2-2448-245, Mon-Fri, 9 am-12 pm.

    Netherlands

    12 de Octubre 1942 and Cordero, tel. 2-2525-461, Mon-Fri, 9 am-12pm.

    Norway & Sweden

    Pasaje Alonso Jerves 134 and Orellana, tel. 2-2509-514/423, fax 2-2502-593, Mon-Fri, 9 am-12 pm.

    Panama

    Diego de Almagro 1550 and Pradera, Edificio Kingman, 3rd Floor, tel. /fax 2-2566-449, Mon-Fri, 9 am-2 pm.

    Peru

    Av. Rep de El Salvador 495 and Irlanda, tel. 2-2468-410/411, Mon-Fri, 9:30 am-12:30 pm, 3:30-6:30 pm.

    Switzerland

    Amazonas 3617 and Juan Pablo Sanz, Edificio Xerox, 2nd Floor, tel. 2-2434-948 fax 2-2430-594, Mon-Fri, 9 am-12 pm.

    Spain

    La Pinta 455 and Amazonas, tel. 2-2564-373/390/377, fax 2-2500-826, Mon-Fri, 9 am-1 pm.

    United States

    12 de Octubre and Patria, tel. 2-2562-890, fax 2-250-2052, Tues-Fri, 8-11:30 am, 2:30-4 pm.