The Directory of Essential Oils

Wanda Sellar is a highly respected aromatherapist of many years’ standing. She is based in the South East of England.

This is a practical directory of 83 essential oils, covering many unusual oils as well as those that are in popular use. The oils are extensively categorised, with each entry offering valuable information at a glance. Helpful descriptions are given of the oils’ aromas, their chemical constituents and their effects on the mind and body. Fascinating information is also included about the oils’ histories, their extraction methods, and the myths and legends associated with them. There is also useful guidance on the effects of essential oils on the skin and their use in blends and treatments.

My thanks to the Enfield Library and to friends and colleagues who have aided and abetted my labours, in particular Dr Vivian Lunny, Jean Goodall, Lindsay Bamfield and Christina Bennett. I am grateful too to the following essential oil companies who lent a helpful hand; Fleur Aromatherapy, Ronald Hagman Laboratories, Phoenix Products and Butterbur & Sage Ltd.

Aromatherapy: The Use of Plant Essences in Healing, Raymond Laurie D.Sc & Andre Passebecq Md DPs; Thorsons Publishing Group.

FEATURES Amyris grows wild on the mountain slopes of Haiti. Often found in small thickets, it is an evergreen with lovely white flowers though it is the bark which emits the valuable resinous fluid. Acclaimed as the West Indian Sandalwood although it does not belong to the same family, i.e. Santalaceae. Different regions of production seem to produce a slightly different type of oil, the quality of which largely depends upon moisture content and age of tree. If the wood is ground too finely, there is a reduction of oil.

HISTORY & MYTH The wood burns like a candle due to its plentiful oil content, hence its other popular pseudonym Candlewood. Not surprisingly, it was also chopped up for firewood. It was a familiar sight along the seashores of Haiti at night since fishermen used the twigs as a torch to catch sea crabs. Similarly villagers travelling at night-time would light their way with Amyris twigs when they brought farm produce from their mountain dwellings to the cities. Its durable quality found a practical use as fence posts too.

Prior to the Second World War, large quantities of small logs were exported from Venezuela, Haiti and Jamaica for distillation chiefly in Germany. The properties are said to be similar to that of East Indian Sandalwood, an oil it has been known to adulterate. Principal use has been as a fixative in perfumes and as an ingredient of soaps and cosmetics.

BODY We start with an oil about which little is known except its colourful and interesting history. Therapeutics are little more than guesswork based on its similarity to Sandalwood and Sesquiterpene content.

This indicates a soothing, sedative quality which is also associated with base notes, Amyris being used as a fixative in perfumes. Its antispasmodic nature ties in with its calming character and, like Sandalwood, could well ease coughs and chest complaints. Possibly hypotensive too, helping to bring down blood pressure.

Since most oils are antiseptic, no doubt Amyris also has this quality and may help to ward off infection. The strength of its potency in this regard is, however, uncertain.

Is it possible that, like Sandalwood, it could well have an effect on urinary complaints? However, its competence as an aphrodisiac must, no doubt, be left to personal investigation!

EFFECT ON SKIN Antiphlogistic qualities are often characteristic of Sesquiterpenes, so it is possible that Amyris may well have a soothing effect on inflammatory conditions. However, with its ‘burnt wood’ aroma could this in fact also point to a ‘drying’ effect on oily skin conditions?

BLENDS Benzoin, Clary Sage, Elemi, Frankincense, Galbanum, Geranium, Jasmine, Lavender, Melissa, Rose, Rosewood, Ylang Ylang.

PLANT/PART	Herb/Seeds/Roots
LATIN NAME	Angelica archangelica
FAMILY	Umbelliferae
NOTE	Base
PLANET	Sun
EXTRACTION	Distillation

FEATURES A water-loving herb often found near rivers and streams. Grows quite tall with large, broad pointed leaves dividing into smaller leaflets adorned by tiny greenish-white flowers. Many varieties of Angelica grow over Northern Europe as well as Iceland, Greenland and central Russia and the oil is often obtained from England and Belgium.

HISTORY & MYTH Some time during the 16th century, Angelica came out of North Africa and into the warmer climes of Europe. Since first flowering on 8th May – St Michael the Archangel’s Day – it has been used in mystical rituals. Perhaps not surprisingly, it was frequently grown in monasteries and known in those ancient dwellings as ‘Angel Grass’.

Popular French liqueurs such as Chartreuse and Benedictine include this delightful herb. It grew to be a favourite garden plant, and was widely regarded as an antidote to the Plague. ‘Angelica Water’ formed part of a royal prescription and was published in pamphlet form by the College of Physicians in 1665, the year of London’s Great Plague. The old medic Paracelsus esteemed it highly and reckoned it to be a cure-all. Often used to flavour gin and perfumes and traditionally candied for cake decoration and confectionery.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Borneol, Linalool (Alcohols), Bergaptene (Lactone), Limonene, Phellandrene, Pinene (Terpenes).

PROPERTIES Antispasmodic, Aphrodisiac, Carminative, Diuretic, Emmenagogue, Expectorant, Hepatic, Stimulant, Stomachic, Sudorific, Tonic.

PRECAUTIONS Excessive use may over stimulate the nervous system, possibly causing insomnia. Could be phototoxic, i.e. causing irritation when the skin is exposed to the sun. Best avoided in pregnancy and, some say, diabetes.

MIND A fillip to the nervous system quickly relieving exhaustion and stress. Promotes a feeling of balance and appears to revitalise a tired mind and a flagging heart. Gives incentive to face difficult problems.

BODY Its tonic action has a potent healing effect on the body particularly at the start of treatment by strengthening the constitution. It invigorates the lymphatic system, speeds up cleansing through its sweating action, drains fluids and relieves the body of poisons especially after a long illness.

Helps with indigestion, flatulence, dyspepsia (feeling of nausea and discomfort), stomach ulcers and colic. Stimulates appetite and may help with anorexia nervosa. Said to be a tonic to the liver and spleen. A urinary antiseptic, hence useful in cystitis.

Its expectorant qualities work on feverish colds, chronic bronchitis and pleurisy. Seems to ease nervous asthma, shortness of breath and smokers cough as well as restoring sense of smell. Appears to be a general tonic to the lungs.

Said to encourage production of oestrogen, thereby regulating menstruation and easing painful periods as well as helping to expel afterbirth. Reputedly useful with male and female infertility.

EFFECT ON SKIN A good skin tonic and also said to be anti-inflammatory which might be beneficial to various skin problems. Reputedly deals with fungal growths.

PLANT/PART	Herb/Seeds
LATIN NAME	Pimpinella anisum
FAMILY	Umbelliferae
NOTE	Top to Middle
PLANET	Sun
EXTRACTION	Distillation

FEATURES The Middle East first gave us Aniseed and it is now found in the warmer parts of Europe as well as North Africa and the USA. Cultivated to about two feet, it has delicate feathery leaves with tiny white blossoms. The greyish-brown seeds are crushed before distillation, increasing the oil yield. Low temperatures tend to solidify the oil and it may need to be hand-warmed before use.

HISTORY & MYTH Revered by ancient civilisations, particularly in the Middle East. The practical Egyptians used Aniseed in breadmaking probably for its carminative properties. The Romans hailed it as an aphrodisiac! They also used the seeds for a spicy cake known as ‘mustaceus’. The Greeks recognised its calmative influence on the digestive tract. More recently it has been used in liqueurs and cordials such as pernod and absinthe. In India the seeds are chewed to sweeten the breath. Has been used as an ingredient in toothpastes and mouthwashes.

PROPERTIES Antiemetic, Antispasmodic, Aphrodisiac, Cardiac, Carminative, Digestive, Diuretic, Expectorant, Galactagogue, Insecticide, Laxative, Parasiticide, Parturient, Pectoral, Stimulant, Stomachic.

PRECAUTIONS A very potent oil, not often used in massage as skin sensitisation may occur. Generally a stimulant, but excessive use could cause sluggishness. In extreme cases possibility of circulatory problems and cerebral congestion. Certainly should be avoided in pregnancy and perhaps altogether.

BODY Well known for its effect on the digestive system. May be helpful with dyspepsia, colic and flatulence. Seems to quell vomiting and nausea, especially of nervous origin. Gets things moving by stimulating peristalsis. Apparently helpful with oliguria (low quantity of urine).

Has been used as a stimulant in cardiac fatigue though at the same time could ease palpitations. A general tonic to the circulatory system and respiratory tract. Used in lung and heart disease generally and may have a good effect on asthma and breathing difficulties. Appears to help with colds due to its warming properties.

Sexual problems such as impotence and frigidity may be helped – the Romans thought so anyway! Stimulates the glands and its oestrogen content seems to have a regulating effect on the reproductive system. Also calms menstrual pain, aids quick delivery in childbirth and stimulates the flow of milk in nursing mothers.

EFFECT ON SKIN Said to control lice and the ‘itch mite’, a cause of scabies. Generally has a reputation for dealing with infectious skin diseases.

BLENDS Amyris, Bay, Cardamom, Caraway, Cedarwood, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Galbanum, Mandarin, Petitgrain, Rosewood.

FEATURES This ancient and exotic evergreen tree comes from East Asia and reaches to about thirty feet. Preferring its native land, it eschews other locations. Yellow flowers and star-shaped fruits adorn a white bark. The fruits are distilled in their fresh green state, the oil having a similar though stronger aroma to Aniseed. Anise-Star is derived from Chinese Anise and sometimes referred to as ‘Anise Vert’ due to its green colouring. There is a Japanese variety (Illicium religiosum) which is poisonous.

HISTORY & MYTH The village industries of Indochina included essential oil of Anise-Star. Though it is often said to be of inferior quality to Aniseed the Chinese were still quite keen to use it as an ingredient of their medicines. Certainly it was a popular aperitif and was sometimes ground in tea and coffee to sweeten the breath. Meat dishes such as pork and duck were flavoured with Anise-Star and it found a way into sweet dishes as well. English navigators brought it to Europe in the 16th century and it was soon much in demand for flavouring liqueurs in France, Germany and Italy.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Cineole (Ketone), Anethole, Safrole (Phenol), Carene, Cymene, Dipentene, Limonene, Pinene, Phellandrene (Terpenes).

PRECAUTIONS A potent oil which may over-stimulate the nervous system – best avoided by people prone to allergies. Does not generally have a widespread use in Aromatherapy, and it may be best to avoid it all together.

BODY Seems to do an all-purpose job on the digestive system due to its strongly carminative nature. Settles the stomach, dispels flatulence and relieves nausea. Effective against constipation by stimulating peristalsis. Its beneficial action on the gut generally is probably the basis for its soothing effect on hernias.

A warming effect on colds points to a beneficial action on the respiratory system. Has a reputation for soothing sore throats and chest infections. Apparently helpful with lumbago, a rheumatic condition usually resulting from cold weather.

Also said to encourage production of oestrogen and could be useful with pre-menstrual tension, painful periods and acts as a regulator of menstruation.

PLANT/PART	Herb/Flowering tops and leaves
LATIN NAME	Ocimum basilicum
FAMILY	Labiatae
NOTE	Top
PLANET	Mars
EXTRACTION	Distillation

FEATURES The many varieties of Basil originate from Asia and the Pacific islands. The broadly oval and pointed green leaves support lovely purple-white flowers on a sixteen inch stem. Swarms of bees hover around this plant in summer. North Africa, France, Cyprus and the Seychelles give us the essential oil though, European Basil is said to be the best quality.

HISTORY & MYTH Basilicum is from the Greek word ‘Basilicos’, meaning ‘royal’. A mix-up with the Latin ‘Basilicus’ referring to serpent briefly gave Basil an unsavoury reputation. Unscrupulous Magicians thought they could create scorpions by crushing Basil between two stones. Wiser Indian folklore held Basil sacred to Krishna and Vishnu, endowing it with protective qualities. Indeed, some Indian tribes chew Basil leaves before taking part in religious ceremonies to gain inspiration. It is used extensively in Ayurvedic medicine.

The Chinese favoured it for many centuries as a useful medicine and it seems to have a reputation for curing epilepsy. It soared in popularity during the Second World War, when spices were hard to come by. The essential oil is used in perfumery.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Linalool (Alcohol), Borneone, Camphor, Cineole (Ketones), Methylchavicol, Eugenol (Phenols), Ocimene, Pinene, Sylvestrene (Terpenes).

PROPERTIES Analgesic, Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Antivenomous, Aphrodisiac, Bacteriacide, Carminative, Cephalic, Digestive, Emmenagogue, Expectorant, Febrifuge, Galactagogue, Insecticide, Nervine, Stomachic, Sudorific, Tonic, Restorative, Stimulant, Vermifuge.

PRECAUTIONS Usually stimulating but has a stupefying effect when used in excess. An emmenagogue so perhaps best to avoid in pregnancy. Also might be irritant to people with sensitive skin.

MIND A good tonic for the nerves especially when feeling fragile, sharpening the senses and encouraging concentration. Apparently calms hysteria and nervous disorders, yet seems to have an uplifting effect on depression.

BODY First rate with headaches and migraine, probably due to its cephalic properties. Said to revive fainting spells and temporary paralysis. It is claimed to get rid of nasal polyps and earache. Could reduce allergies since it has an effect on the adrenal cortex which controls allergies related to stress.

Basil seems to have a beneficial action on the respiratory tract and is often used for sinus congestion, asthma, bronchitis, emphysema (excess air in tissues), influenza and whooping cough. Restores sense of smell lost through catarrh.

Also effective in digestive disorders such as vomiting, gastric spasm, nausea, dyspepsia (discomfort in upper digestive tract), and hiccups. Seems to cleanse the intestines and kidneys through its antiseptic action.

Imitates the oestrogen hormone and often useful with menstrual problems such as scanty periods and engorgement of breasts. It gives rapid expulsion of afterbirth. Could well have some effect on conception difficulties.

Useful for wasp and insect bites: indeed, once reduced severe fevers like Malaria caused by parasites in the blood from mosquito bites.

May help to minimise uric acid in the blood and relieve gout as well as muscular pain generally. Stimulates blood flow and useful for deep muscle spasm.

EFFECT ON SKIN A refreshing and tonic action benefits sluggish and congested skins and may also help to control acne.

BLENDS Bergamot, Black Pepper, Clary Sage, Geranium, Hyssop, Lavender, Marjoram, Melissa, Neroli, Sandalwood, Verbena.

FEATURES This sturdy evergreen tree grows to over thirty feet and is actually native to southern Europe. Another variety, ‘Pimenta racemosa’, flavours West Indian Bay Rum. Our Bay tree has long lance-shaped leaves which are rather leathery and glossy and bear small creamy-yellow flowers and black berries. The oil is often obtained from Morocco and Spain.

HISTORY & MYTH Extensively used by the ancient Egyptians and popular with the Romans, who saw the Bay as a symbol of wisdom, protection and peace. Apollo, the god of healing was associated with the Bay tree. Its Latin derivative, ‘Laudis’, means ‘to praise’, hence the presentation of laurel wreaths to victors at the Olympic Games. The idea of the ‘Poet Laureate’ descends from this practice.

A myth states that pleasant and prophetic dreams occur if a Bay leaf is placed under the pillow. More practically, it has long been used in soups and sauces since it aids the digestion by increasing salivary secretion. Church floors in Greece are still strewn with Bay leaves perhaps due to their antiseptic quality. The durable wood has been used for making walking sticks. Sometimes referred to as ‘Laurel’.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Geraniol, Linalool, Terpineol (Alcohols), Cineole (Ketone), Eugenol (Phenol), Phellandrene, Pinene (Terpenes).

PROPERTIES Analgesic, Antineuralgic, Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Aperitif, Astringent, Cholagogue, Diuretic, Emmenagogue, Febrifuge, Hepatic, Insecticide, Parturient, Stimulant, Stomachic, Sudorific, Tonic.

PRECAUTIONS The Romans liked nothing better than to soak in a bath sprinkled with Bay leaves. The essential oil, however, may irritate the skin and possibly the mucous membranes, so best used with caution or not at all. Pregnant women should stay clear of it.

BODY Gives a pronounced action on the digestive system and could act as an appetite stimulant. Expels wind, settles stomach pain and has a tonic effect on the liver and kidneys. Promotes the flow of urine.

Rheumatic pain may be relieved by its application as well as general aches, pains and sprains, especially when combined with Rose and Juniper. Indicated particularly where there is a feeling of cold.

At the same time, it is said to bring down fever through its sweating action. Reputedly effective in infectious diseases and possibly helpful in cases of bronchitis.

EFFECT ON SKIN Has a reputation for being a good hair and scalp tonic, stimulating growth and clearing dandruff. It apparently helps to disperse blood in bruises, soothes inflammation and minimises scarring. However, not generally used in aromatherapy due to possible irritation.

BLENDS Cedarwood, Coriander, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Marjoram, Orange, Rose, Rosemary, Thyme, Ylang Ylang.

PLANT/PART	Tree/Gum from trunk
LATIN NAME	Styrax benzoin
FAMILY	Styraceac
NOTE	Base
PLANET	Sun
EXTRACTION	Solvent Extraction

FEATURES Java, Sumatra and Thailand give us the Benzoin tree. Triangular wounds are cut into the bark from which the sap exudes – it does not occur naturally. The greyish brown, resinous lump is pressed into a solid mass and is not strictly an essential oil, more a resin. It is melted by heating over water before it can be used. Can be bought already dissolved in ethyl glycol.

HISTORY & MYTH A scented gum, used in cosmetics for hundreds of years. The ancient civilisations thought it a grand remedy for driving away evil spirits and it was often used in fumigations and incense. More recently it gained popularity as an ingredient of ‘Friar’s Balsam’. It was often referred to in old herbals as ‘gum benzoin’, ‘balsam’ or ‘gum benjamin’. ‘Virgin Milk’, an old fashioned toilet water, included Benzoin as well as Lavender and Ethanol. It was supposed to make the skin ‘clear and brilliant’. Nowadays used frequently as a fixative in perfumes.

PROPERTIES Antiseptic, Astringent, Carminative, Cephalic, Cordial. Deodorant, Diuretic, Expectorant, Sedative, Vulnerary.

MIND A palliative for tension and stress since it has a calming effect on the nervous system. Brings comfort to the sad, lonely and depressed. Helps to let go of worries, instils confidence and eases exhausted, emotional and psychic states.

BODY Seems to have a rejuvenating effect on the body. It warms the heart and circulation and may ease general aches and pains as well as arthritis.

Has a good reputation for helping with respiratory disorders. A tonic to the lungs and beneficial action for bronchitis, asthma, coughs, colds, laryngitis and sore throats. Very effective on congested mucous membranes, expelling fluid waste.

Also helps with disorders of the urinary tract such as cystitis since it aids urine flow. A remedy for genital problems like leucorrhoea and may have a part to play with sexual difficulties, reputedly premature ejaculation.

Calming effect on the stomach, expels flatulence and strengthens the pancreas aiding digestion. Said to control blood sugar levels, which could be helpful to sufferers of diabetes.

EFFECT ON SKIN Sound remedy for cracked, dry skin, making it more elastic. Particularly useful for chapped hands and heels as well as chilblains and rashes. A good remedy for wounds and sores, valuable where there is redness, irritation and itching as in dermatitis.

BLENDS Bergamot, Coriander, Cypress, Frankincense, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Myrrh, Orange, Petitgrain, Rose, Sandalwood.

FEATURES Not to be confused with ‘Monarda didyma’, a decorative flower also called Bergamot. Citrus bergamia is a fifteen-foot tree with long green leaves and white flowers. The fruit is pitted like a small orange, although it has a pear-like shape. Oil usually obtained from Italy and Morocco. The Bergamot tree, most delicate of all citrus plants, demands a special climate and soil.

HISTORY & MYTH The oil takes its name from a small town in Italy where the tree was originally cultivated. However, legend has it that Christopher Columbus found the tree in the Canary Islands and introduced it into Spain and Italy Records show its use in Florence since 1725 where it was popular in Italian folklore medicine, but only recently exported.

A cheaper form of Bergamot oil is distilled from unripe fallen fruit and sometimes used to adulterate the more expensive oil. The leaves are occasionally distilled, which gives us another form of Petitgrain. Bergamot imparts that unusual flavour to Earl Grey tea. Often used for its uplifting qualities in Aromatherapy and may be a first choice for depressive states. Probably one of the most common ingredients of all perfumes, especially Eau de Cologne.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Linalool, Nerol, Terpineol (Alcohols), Linalyl acetate (Ester), Bergaptene (Lactone), Dipentene, Limonene (Terpenes).

PROPERTIES Analgesic, Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Carminative, Cicatrisant, Cordial, Deodorant, Digestive, Expectorant, Febrifuge, Insecticide, Sedative, Stomachic, Tonic, Vermifuge, Vulnerary.

PRECAUTIONS Strong sunlight to be avoided after use as it increases photo-sensitivity of the skin. This is due to the chemical Bergaptene which will help with tanning but not protect from burning. May also irritate sensitive skin.

MIND Its sedative yet uplifting character is excellent for anxiety, depression and nervous tension. A combined cooling and refreshing quality seems to allay anger and frustration, probably by decreasing the action of the sympathetic nervous system.

Also works well on the digestive tract and relieves conditions such as painful digestion, dyspepsia, flatulence, colic, indigestion and loss of appetite. An excellent intestinal antiseptic, casts out intestinal parasites and apparently diminishes gallstones. May be useful to anorexia sufferers by regulating appetite.

Also helpful with respiratory infections, which may include breathing difficulties as well as tonsillitis, bronchitis and tuberculosis. Often effective on cold sores, chicken pox and shingles.

PLANT/PART	Tree/Wood
LATIN NAME	Amyris balsamifera
FAMILY	Rutaceae
NOTE	Base
PLANET	None
EXTRACTION	Distillation

PLANT/PART	Tree/Fruit
LATIN NAME	Illicium verum
FAMILY	Magnoliaceae
NOTE	Top
PLANET	Sun
EXTRACTION	Distillation

PLANT/PART	Tree/Leaf
LATIN NAME	Laurus nobilis
FAMILY	Lauraceae
NOTE	Top
PLANET	Sun
EXTRACTION	Distillation

PLANT/PART	Tree/Peel
LATIN NAME	Citrus bergamia
FAMILY	Rutaceae
NOTE	Top
PLANET	None
EXTRACTION	Expression