Copyright © 2006 Omnibus Press
This edition © 2009 Omnibus Press
(A Division of Music Sales Limited, 14-15 Berners Street, London, W1T 3LJ)
ISBN: 978-0-85712-013-7
The Author hereby asserts his/her right to be identified as the author of this work in accordance with Sections 77 to 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the publisher, expect by a reviewer who may quote brief passages.
Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of the photographs in this book, but one or two were unreachable. We would be grateful if the photographers concerned would contact us.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Visit Omnibus Press on the web at www.omnibuspress.com
For all your musical needs including instruments, sheet music and accessories, visit www.musicroom.com
For on-demand sheet music straight to your home printer, visit www.sheetmusicdirect.com
For Charlotte and Isaac
Information Page
Introduction
Part I – UP
Chapter 1: Welcome To Aberdeen
Chapter 2: Don’t Want To Be Confused
Chapter 3: Class Of ’86
Chapter 4: Gentle Sound, Half-finished Town
Chapter 5: Here Comes Sickness
Chapter 6: Sub Pop Rock City
Chapter 7: No Intellectual Perspective
Chapter 8: $50 And A Case Of Beer
Chapter 9: Corndogs And Candy
Chapter 10: Duct Tape And Splinters
Chapter 11: We Take Baths, Not Showers
Chapter 12: Monster Of Rock
Chapter 13: Angels In The Snow
Chapter 14: The Will Of Instinct
Chapter 15: Love Is The Drug
Part II – THERE
Chapter 16: Excess All Areas
Chapter 17: Beautiful, Beautiful Eyes
Chapter 18: Territorial Pissings
Part III – DOWN
Chapter 19: Dirty Linen And Brimming Ashtrays
Chapter 20: Adult-oriented Grunge
Chapter 21: Where’s The Mud, Honey?
Chapter 22: Shut Your Bitch Up
Chapter 23: The Royal Couple
Chapter 24: Foetuses And Seahorses
Chapter 25: Eyes Wide Open
Chapter 26: We Had Joy, We Had Fun
Chapter 27: Fallen Angels
Chapter 28: Lovesick
Chapter 29: Spring Rain
Chapter 30: The Aftermath
Discography
Acknowledgements
Have you noticed how the rock establishment all wear Ramones T-shirts now?
From Eddie Vedder to Jessica Simpson to the Chili Peppers, all the way through the Baby Gap generation, they wear the mark of a dead band like a badge of approval, now it’s acknowledged the Ramones accepted their status as Rock Outsiders with true stoicism: like they’re hoping that wearing the T might somehow help some of the Ramones’ natural flair for music transfer across. Fat chance. If you don’t know now, you never will.
None of them wears a Nirvana T-shirt. Not one.
Leave that to the kids – the eight-year-olds who weren’t even alive while Kurt Cobain was around: the 12-year-olds desperate for peer approval and fed up with the blandishments of the mainstream media: the 15-year-old Goths lounging round city centres, studiously bored, frightened of the encroaching adult world. They understand how it feels to be unloved, confused, misunderstood, betrayed by those in positions of authority who only ever claim to be helping you. The kids understand.
Stories need to begin somewhere.
Mine is a jumble, a confusion of nightclubs and pranks that turned out wrong; names and faces that went in one eye and straight out the other; nights that began drunk and ended in amnesia; crawling around airports on my hands and knees; punching walls with bare knuckles; shaved heads on rooftops underneath a red moon; laughter and screaming and – caught up right in the centre of it all – music; loud and plentiful and spontaneous and unpolished and beautiful and thrilling. I keep reminding myself. This is a book on Nirvana. Not Kurt Cobain. The gossip stories, the conspiracy theories have all been laid out in detail and by folk far more qualified to talk about these matters than me – folk with a vested interest in history and shifting units and keeping the myth alive. It was the butler. Every Agatha Christie fan knows that. The butler did it. If not him, then the nanny was responsible. Easy access, you see. The drugs took their toll. It was hereditary. Must’ve been the nanny. Maybe the wife’s responsible. Words get added on top of words until all semblance of reality is gone, smothered under cynical rewrites and well-meaning anecdotes from the past.
“… the Melvins were going on tour and so Kurt invited me down. He’s like, ‘Hey, they gave us these apartments to live in, come down any time you want, come down for the weekend, Shelli is down here with Krist.’ They kept calling and saying, ‘When are you coming, when are you coming?’ Finally, one weekend I decided to go down. We planned to meet up at this Butthole Surfers/L7 show at the Hollywood Palladium, and from there we would go to the apartments. We flew in, rented a car, got lost and ended up at the club. We got there really late. We found Kurt, and Krist was super drunk. He either got a DUI [driving under the influence of alcohol] that night or almost ran someone over in the parking lot. Then I remember Courtney – someone who I had heard about and read about for years via other people I knew who knew her or were married to her. She was around …”
This is a book about Nirvana. I have to keep reminding myself. Nirvana. Schoolyard friends Kurt Cobain and Krist Novoselic formed the band in Aberdeen, Washington during the mid-Eighties through a mixture of boredom and a love for music. There wasn’t much else going on. Home life sucked; nothing to do but watch TV – Saturday Night Live, The Monkees, late night sci-fi films. The logging industry that had helped spawn their home town had long moved elsewhere in its search for cheap labour. Life was a succession of dead-end jobs, cleaning up hotel rooms and waiting on tables. Punk rock beckoned – punk rock and Olympia, Washington. Form a band. Why not? If it feels good, do it.
“Living in Olympia when I was 20 years old, I lived in a town where every band either had no bass-player or else it was keyboards and a singer, or someone singing along to a recorded tape or with just a guitar player. All we heard from the rest of the world was, ‘You’re not legitimate, that’s not real rock’n’roll,’ particularly from the big city next door, Seattle. They would laugh at us like, ‘You can’t play your instruments, you don’t know what you’re doing, that’s not rock’n’roll.’ In the days of hardcore, it’d become so that if you weren’t Black Flag, or some derivative of Black Flag, people would laugh at you for claiming to be punk rock. Today, kids live in a world where duos in particular are the thing like The White Stripes and Lightning Bolt – both big and small, duos or laptop artists like RJD2 are the norm in the post-Pitchfork world. We led the fight that made this possible. I laughed at the old people when I was 20 who said they’d paved the way for us and I can’t really expect the 20-year-olds now to understand that Godheadsilo made it possible for most of these bands today, or Beat Happening or Mecca Normal. They suffered all the degradation, the hard work that never paid off, the years of ridicule, so that other bands could …”
Nirvana went through several line-up and name changes, losing and gaining drummers, moving cities as circumstances dictated – before rubbing up on the wrong side of celebrity culture. They had a naïve belief in the power of spontaneity. They released three albums during their lifetime and momentarily changed a few million people’s worlds. They appeared on MTV a lot, and helped prop up and reinvent a decaying patriarchal music industry they professed to despise, much as the punk rockers had done two decades before. Reading Festival, the headline slot, was memorable. There was a benefit for Bosnian rape victims at the Cow Palace in San Francisco that stood out. Several small tours playing the clubs of the US and Britain and Europe helped hone their destructive tendencies. Kurt and Krist and Dave. Kurdt and Chris and Chad. Pat and Lori, and Earnie Bailey the ever-smiling guitar technician, and Alex MacLeod the acerbic Scots tour manager, and Craig and Monte and Anton and Nils, and Susie and Charles and Jackie and John and Janet and Danny, and Jon and Bruce from Sub Pop records … a lot of names, sure, though probably not as many as most large corporations shifting millions of units around the world. Nirvana: what a great live band!
“We started kind of raging and destroying our gear a lot, but we didn’t do that right off the bat. It was probably about the third show. I didn’t do it on purpose. I just joined in with what was already going on. But it was fun. It wasn’t like we said, ‘OK Krist, you jump really high and throw your bass in the air and have it knock you out; and Kurt, you get down on the floor and do the worm.’ It was that we were so sick and tired of the big rock – all the arena rock and special effects and all that that entailed wasn’t what we were about.”
Stories need to start somewhere, but of course they never usually do.
This is a book about Nirvana. Nirvana were a band who understand the primary rule of rock’n’roll: that spontaneity is at the heart of all great rock music, that you need to be able to react instantly to circumstance and context, that the idiot boards and sound-bites television saddled us with lead to a deadening of the senses. Art constantly changes. That’s why it’s art. It’s not there to be documented and pored over in stuffy galleries and libraries. Except everyone needs a vocation. Everyone needs a little history so they can understand their own situation better. And someone sure deserves a royalty settlement for the design on all those T-shirts … !
“I think he suspected her of cheating on him with Evan Dando and Billy Corgan. Was she? I think so. I mean, define cheating. Did they get fucked up and make out one night? That counts to a husband who’s wondering. Was it a real affair? No, probably not. The one intense moment, and we’re jumping ahead here, was when he called me from Italy, and I was in London with Courtney. We were late to see him. We were three weeks late. He was really serious and calm and like, ‘I know that you don’t get in the middle of our stuff and I know you don’t take sides, but can I ask you something as your friend?’ I was like, ‘Yeah.’ He goes, ‘Is she cheating on me?’ It was serious, no nonsense. I remember thinking, ‘I think that she is,’ but I didn’t say that. I didn’t know for sure and what if I had said, ‘I think, maybe?’ I don’t think I could have saved him from anything if I did say yes.
“We had been putting off going to Europe. We came down to LA for a couple of days because she had to do something. She immediately got two bungalows at the chateau – one for me and Frances, and one for her. She rented a car for me the second day. After what felt like a couple of weeks, I stopped asking when we were leaving every day. She kept putting it off and I was like, ‘Well, tell me when you want to go.’ I don’t remember how long we were there, but I remember he was calling, going, ‘Are you coming or what?’ I’d be like, ‘Hey, I’m coming. When Courtney’s ready to come, I’m coming.’ I don’t remember how long we were there, but I do know that I saw the hotel bill when we left, and it was for $37,000.”
I have to keep reminding myself. This is a book about Nirvana.
I slip and there’s sweat pouring down my shirt, legs kicking at the side of my face as another fan clambers up on stage to leap off pursued by five angry security men, sunlight blowing through eyes and temples that still hurt way too much from the night before, body a welter of cuts and bruises. What do you understand from your own brief lifespan? Did you touch others? Affect those around you? How? Why? Was it the music, the lifestyle, the projected myth that other people who never even knew or met you decide to place around a few random actions and interactions? Those in charge can never hope to understand Nirvana: most of us aren’t winners, don’t end up exploiting the rest for all they’re worth. Most of us struggle to get by, confused by what we perceive to be out there, life a series of disappointments and putdowns. Is it that difficult to understand Nirvana’s appeal? They captured the zeitgeist: the disaffection of their generation. And because Kurt killed himself, they remain true to that spirit, consequently resonating with all alienated teenagers. Kurt Cobain never got past the stage of being an angry, betrayed teenager.
“Die young, leave a good-looking corpse,” ran the conventional wisdom as I grew up. Kurt Cobain left one of the best-looking corpses around.
“I was a junkie for 10 years. Heroin makes you forget about everything else going on in the world. It makes you forget about the fact your band isn’t getting as much attention as another band, or that you have to go to work throwing fish around Pike Place Market. It’s pure comfort. It’s fucking great. And then later on, it turns on you. And yes, you steal your friend’s Sub Pop 45 collection and take old ladies’ purses and steal from your places of employment. You sell your own stuff first, of course: you don’t jump right into criminal activity. And we lost a lot of great friends and a lot of great musicians to it. I got lucky: I lived. And I stopped, eventually. The appeal is weird, and the danger involved is strange too, because it’s not like we don’t know what’s going to happen, but when you start, you don’t think it’s going to affect you. We’re such pompous egotistical assholes. We think it won’t happen to us.”
This is a book about Nirvana. Punk rock. It’s a book about the betrayal of Olympia, and how – just when you’re beginning to think there is light at the end of the tunnel, that it may just be possible to help change the world for the better, so that the ones with quieter voices get a chance to be heard – the world up and whacks you in the face. The corporations win. So ignore them. Don’t get involved. Step outside the mainstream, the conventional day-to-day and create your own communities, your own alternatives that don’t need or seek approval from the adults, the outside world. The saddest thing about the Ramones was the way the group never felt validated until they’d been inducted into the Rock And Roll Hall Of Fame. After two decades of having their vision and sound and career thwarted, the Ramones felt vindicated because the selfsame bunch of assholes responsible deigned to recognise their talent long after it ceased to matter. The saddest thing about Nirvana was that the industry wholeheartedly embraced them even while making snide jokes and innuendo behind their back: Kurt Cobain wanted to view himself as an outsider, but how outside can you be when you’re selling eight million records?
“Kurt had one of those voices that could sing the telephone book and make it sound real and convincing. Nirvana frustrated me so much once they got famous: how could that band make as many mistakes as they made? Once they got a little bit of success, it was like, ‘Oh my God, you’re doing everything wrong!’ I never liked the production on Nevermind, it sounded like Eighties big rock. I don’t like Grohl’s drumming at all. He’s a hard-hitting, pounding drummer. I like things with more finesse. I liked Chad’s drumming for Nirvana, a little sloppier and a little looser. It swung more.”
This is a book about Nirvana. Forget melodies or virtuosity or image or marketing or any of that textbook stuff. It’s important, but anyone can do that. That’s just research. If you can’t react to the situation you find yourself in – whether it be by leaping on to the back of a bouncer who’s beating the shit out of one of your fans, stopping a song entirely because the crowd is singing along, or messing up the intro to The Hit Song so completely it’s unrecognisable – then you probably shouldn’t be on stage at all. Play to yourself and your mum in the living room, spend years honing your craft in a recording studio with soft lights and wood panelling, but don’t pretend to be a live rock band. It’s the thin line that separates the mediocre from the great, The Vines from The White Stripes, Coldplay from Oasis, grunge catwalk chic (Offspring, Muse, Alice In Chains) from Nirvana. CDs and videos mislead: they can never hope to recapture the feeling you get when you experience something live, blood pounding in your temples, hair a matted, sticky mess. They are only documents, fading snapshots of a time that is already fast disappearing from memory, preserved only in celluloid and in digital sound and Behind The Music specials …
“We didn’t have contracts. The standard etiquette was handshake deal, but over and above that, we did not have the money to hire an attorney. I reflect back on Nirvana’s signing and sometimes it seems divinely orchestrated to me. For one thing, I wasn’t at my house when Krist showed up that night. I was at my neighbour’s, and for some reason I’d decided, ‘I need to step out of the house.’ And the moment I stepped outside, Krist walked up. If I had stepped out of the house a minute later I would have missed him, and he would have woken up sober the next day and probably not threatened to beat me up over the contract. Little things add up to big things. But he demanded a contract and he was intimidating. He was drunk and big and very aggressive. So I called up Jon and said, ‘You’ve got to get this guy signed, cos he is pissed. This is something that has to happen.’ Krist was in the room when I was talking to him, ‘Get the contract. This guy is gonna kick my ass, OK?’ So he went to the library and Xeroxed a contract out of some book, and used some whiteout and filled in some names. It was a 10-cent contract with no lawyer. When they signed it in the office, I remember thinking, ‘This could be a significant moment.’ It was the first time Sub Pop had signed a group.”
Once they’d shed their temporary fourth member, Nirvana shows were raucous, genius, a jumble of blurred emotions and shattered strings – Chad Channing pounding his way through another floor tom like he was Dale Crover, Krist perpetually drunk and wreaking havoc, Kurt inviting wasted friends up on stage to sing while he sat himself down behind the drum kit and proceeded to hammer the audience’s objections into silence. Encores got refused, got played out with no strings or guitars because every instrument in the place had been trashed, got spun out into painful abstractions of sound. Nirvana on record were the least of anyone’s worries … since when did such a fun live band become massive?
“Oh, there was always a food fight. It was inevitable. These guys were like children. There was egg throwing, food fighting, putting CDs in the microwave, it was just ridiculous. After we got thrown out the Nevermind record release party we all went over to Susie’s house and dressed the Nirvana guys up in dresses and put make-up on them and danced around the house and I think that was the night that Kurt was slingshot-ing eggs off of Susie’s porch at the neighbours’ cars. Kurt Bloch made a huge mountain of CDs in the living room and people started running at them. There was a bottle of pain medication on top of the refrigerator, and Kurt and I saw it and were like, ‘Oh! Those look good!’ So we took the rest of the bottle, and he and I decided it would be fun to jump from the bedroom window on to the roof of the garage next door. I remember sitting in that window just laughing and laughing, and then Susie or somebody wouldn’t let us jump and we were pissed, like really mad that somebody was not going to let us do something so ridiculous. The next day Dylan came over and picked up Kurt to go shoot guns. They used to buy big hunks of meat at the store, big hams, and go out in the woods and …”
SHUT UP! SHUT UP! This is a book about Nirvana. You don’t want anecdotes, hearsay. Personal journals should remain personal. Have you ever stopped to think that there might be a human being at the heart of all this? That not everything should be public property? Think about what you’re saying, with all your talk of conspiracies, of drugs, of arguments and exploitation. Nirvana were a band. A fucking great live band that also benefited from some judicious radio-friendly production and the fact their lead singer had baby-blue eyes. All the other stuff is extraneous. Listen to the music. Listen to the music. Why do you feel the need to know more?
Do you remember Kurt saying anything about Courtney that night?
“He was sort of mumbling stuff about her. There was some talk about her trying to get him to go with her but he didn’t want to. My friend Alex kept a journal back then, and she recently emailed me a quote from Kurt from that night that might’ve been about Courtney: ‘I want to meet a woman twice as intelligent and half as jaded as I am.’ So we went back to the apartments and it was quiet for a little while and then chaos ensued. There was a drunken English guy there and he was walking through the bushes. I don’t remember why we were outside, I just remember this very drunk English guy yelling, ‘I love Courtney Love. I love Courtney Love.’ Then he’d fall into the bush and we’d have to pick him up. ‘I love Courtney Love. I want to marry Courtney Love.’”
Were you awake for most of that night?
“Well, Krist started throwing furniture out the window. He threw an ashtray and it hit Alex in the head on its way out. She started crying and he was so apologetic. I remember the apartment being trashed. Krist was the biggest and so he could pick up the biggest things: the coffee tables and the couches. The next day Alex and I went into Hollywood. I bought a guitar. I got an old tattoo covered that I’d wanted to get covered forever. There was a big party with Jennifer from L7, but Kurt didn’t want to go, so he and I stayed home and watched TV. He wanted to finish lyrics and we watched a really cool cartoon that blew our minds – Night Flight. And then he wrote something down.”
SHUT UP! SHUT UP! This is a book about Nirvana.
“Dress was not a big concern in Seattle. It still isn’t. There’s a picture of an early audience in ’83, that I call the ‘stray dogs from every village’. There is no uniform sense of style at all. There’s a little bit of hippie, some glam, there’s the trench coat, the flannel coat. One boy’s got the leather jacket with the Sid Vicious pin on it, a little bit of punk. We just liked thrift store clothes. It was an amalgamation of stuff. It started to split up into camps. The Mudhoney camp was more into peg trousers and old school penguin shirts. A little more garage rock.”
SHUT UP! SHUT UP! This is a book about Nirvana.
“While we were doing the demos, the cops came by. It was the only noise complaint we’d had at that studio in five years. It’s an old building, with triple walls. It’s soundproofed. And yet Dave was so loud there was a noise complaint from a house three doors away. I was out in front talking to the police. The cops said, ‘You guys need to turn it down.’ I was telling them, ‘You guys know who Nirvana is?’ I’m trying to explain to the cops that I’ve got Nirvana in here, and I’m trying to explain to Nirvana that I’ve got the cops outside. I’m going, ‘What a time for the cops to show up -I’m doing demos for Nirvana. Jesus Christ, I’m going crazy!’ What am I going to tell the band? We have to stop? It’s a studio! The studio’s been there since the Seventies.”
None of this ever happened, and Kurt is still somewhere out there, nestling underneath a bridge in blue-collar America laughing at us all.
“All right, let’s start with this: page 185. He says that I said, ‘Kurt said to me, “Look! You can see their little arms and pieces floating in the tank.”’ Talking about the tadpoles that we had brought back from the quarry and he had in his aquarium in the apartment. And he says, ‘A young man who used to save birds with broken wings was now delighting in watching tadpoles being devoured by turtles.’ Kurt didn’t throw the tadpoles in his tank thinking they were going to be killed by the turtles. He wanted them to grow up to be frogs. It was a mistake of reasoning on his part because he could have probably figured out that they would get devoured by the turtles and, yeah, he did point out the pieces of them to me, but I wouldn’t say he was delighting in it, I would say he was horrified by it. And then he dumped that stuff out in the backyard and, yes, he was irresponsible, but I wouldn’t say … I mean this makes him out to be some kind of a sadist. Which is just totally wrong.”
Enough already.
This is a book about Nirvana. Some guy took drugs and killed himself. Some guy began looking outside the rock arena for fulfilment and moved into politics. Some guy fell in love with rock’n’roll and there he remains. Some guy never left home and is still on an island with his wife and kid, building studios in the air.
Welcome to the world of Nirvana.
Hi, Everett
Most of my experience with Aberdeen is driving through it on the way to, or back from, a nice weekend on the coast. I have eaten at a couple of diners and fast food joints there, but that hardly makes me an expert on the place. One noticeable thing is that as soon as you leave Aberdeen and hit Hoquiam, the houses and streets are nicer. It’s nothing fancy, it’s just that the same kinds of houses are no longer rundown, and the yards, for the most part, are better kept. The towns merge into each other and if it weren’t for the ‘Welcome To Hoquiam’ (or Aberdeen) signs, you wouldn’t know that you were in one town or the other.
Aberdeen is a small (and small-minded) white trash town with high unemployment and, as such, isn’t remarkably different than thousands of other small white trash towns with low employment across the US. If the environment of Aberdeen created Kurt Cobain, then there should be tens of thousands of Kurt Cobains. But there aren’t. I don’t think there’s anything special, or especially bad, about Aberdeen. There are worse places with worse vibes – like Butte, Montana for instance. Butte hasn’t produced a tortured soul – at least one that got out of there, unless that’s what drove Evel Knievel to jump across the Snake River Canyon.
Love, Mark Arm1
THE story of Nirvana begins in Aberdeen, in the US state of Washington.
Let me level with you.
I know little about the pasts of individual members of Nirvana. You’ll discover some stuff about that in this book, but plenty more in others. I’m not good on history or bullshit. I’m not good on straightening out facts so rigidly they cease to bear any semblance to meaning. I’ve always preferred first-hand experience, first-hand recollections, even if this necessarily leads to contradiction and confusion because no two people view the same event in the same way, not collating together a jumble of assorted views and giving prominence to the most famous among them.
The salient facts about Nirvana’s most famous member are well known by now: Kurt Donald Cobain was born on February 20, 1967 in Grays Harbour Community Hospital. His 21-year-old father Don worked as a mechanic at the Hoquiam Chevron garage; his teenage mother Wendy got pregnant just after graduating from high school. The family moved to central Aberdeen from Hoquiam six months after Kurt was born. Kurt had an imaginary childhood friend, Boddah, whom he created at the age of two, and would later believe to be real, listening back to the echo of his own voice on his Aunt Mari’s tape recorder.2 He was the centre of attention in an adoring family; there were seven aunts and uncles on his mother’s side alone. A sister, Kimberley (Kim), was born when he was three. His relatives nurtured his musical leanings and his burgeoning artistic talent, presenting him with a ready stream of paintbrushes and a Mickey Mouse drum kit. Uncle Chuck played in a band and had some large speakers in his basement studio.
As an infant, Kurt would draw cartoon characters (Aquaman, Creature From The Black Lagoon) and sing Arlo Guthrie’s ‘Motorcycle Song’. The family would go on toboggan rides together. Kurt was later diagnosed as hyperactive and claimed to have thrown 7-Up cans full of pebbles at passing police cars, even from the age of six.
The singer died at the age of 27, victim of a self-inflicted shotgun blast.
Some like to question this last fact because some like to read conspiracy into everything around them: figure out that it’s unfair that life rewards the avaricious and pushy, that those on top most often end up on top because they have so few scruples and are willing to trample on whomever it takes. Or maybe they just like a good story, no matter how hollow its basis. Some would be wrong. But hey, we’ll try and remain open-minded to everything … perhaps Kurt wasn’t born in Grays Harbour hospital, Aberdeen after all? No wait. That’s verifiable. Other people were present.
Unlike suicide.
Leg,
Hi. Have only been to Aberdeen once. Remote, desolate … working class. Lumber town? What’s fascinating to me is: how unlikely the odds are of an act coming from, truly, The Middle Of Nowhere … to becoming the world’s biggest band in …four years?
Bruce3
Aberdeen is an isolated community situated in the south of America’s most north-western state4, an hour west of the state capital Olympia and just south of the Olympic Peninsula, home of the most formidable mountain range on the Pacific Coast. It’s in an area that travel writers like to describe with the clichéd phrase ‘outstanding natural beauty’. In Washington State’s case the epithet is justified: mountains (the Olympics, the Cascades) and rivers and ocean inlets and vast fields of trees all wind round one another, locking and interlocking and taking the breath away on a sunny day – which it rarely is. You wouldn’t know about beauty if you were born in Aberdeen, though: the town is dominated by its lumber mills and sawmills, and especially the towering Rayonier Mill, pumping white smoke from 150 feet in the sky.
Aberdeen is a Scottish name, meaning ‘confluence of two rivers’: the town is located on the banks of the Chehalis and Wishkah rivers. For a hundred years, Aberdeen was a timber mill town on a bay, Grays Harbour, at the foot of the mountains. By the late Seventies, the region ran out of trees to cut down, and all businesses of any size were shuttered. The grand department stores downtown were emptied of merchandise and reborn as flea markets selling old books, magazines and second-hand clothes for a nickel a pound. In its heyday in the early twentieth century, Aberdeen was home to a population of more than 50,000. It now boasts less than a third of that. It’s a dying town. Aberdeen in 2006 is pretty much unchanged from back when a teenage Kurt Cobain used to spray incomprehensible graffiti in alleyways.
Unemployment’s high in Aberdeen: unemployment and alcoholism and the suicide rate.5 There’s little for youth to do except run around drunk and light small fires in disused junkyards, or pick the psychedelic mushrooms that grow in the fields around the edges of town. Initially, Aberdeen prospered because its logging industry was serviced by a railroad terminus and seaport that engaged men who squandered their wages in its saloons and bordellos. But successive American governments in the Sixties and Seventies systematically ran down the railroads; the logging industry became decentralised and sailors started looking elsewhere for their pleasures after a crackdown on prostitution in the Fifties. Sounds grim, but Aberdeen is no different to anywhere else in small-town America – if it’s not logging, it’s strip-mining or oil-drilling, though nowadays it’s more likely to be corporate chains like Wal-Mart moving in, leeching the heart out of a small community and moving out again once they’ve sucked it dry.
“Aberdeen was apocalyptic in the way old industrial towns are when the economy dies and there is no money or jobs,” explains Olympia musician Tobi Vail.
When people talk about 25 per cent of the US population being near or below the poverty line6, they’re talking about Aberdeen. The difference between Aberdeen and the similarly depressed Olympia is that Olympia is rich enough to have a homeless community. Vagrants simply don’t bother coming to Aberdeen — they know there’s nothing for them there. It’s simple US economics: the side of America politicians never like to talk about. You don’t have many rights, just the right to exist. No one wants to know you because you’re not rich or powerful enough to be part of any political agenda. You don’t vote so you don’t count. It’s not like there isn’t beauty around Aberdeen, though. You can find a veritable treasure trove trawling through its thrift stores and church halls — but you need to focus, like the camera blowing on an empty carrier bag at the end of American Beauty.
That’s one point of view.
Others feel there’s plenty to appreciate about the town.
“I don’t think it’s fair to say Aberdeen’s inhabitants don’t appreciate its beauty,” comments former K recording artist Rich Jensen. “Aberdeen’s raw wildness — its lack of structure — is one of the main things that keeps them there; the freedom to take a leak off your porch in the moonlight; the pleasures of rolling a junked car into a ravine and shooting at it periodically over a summer or two. I think the residents and working people of rural towns enjoy the quiet: the eagles that rest in the tops of the pines, the smell of sea air at dawn, etc — and they extract a satisfaction in believing that they deserve the charms of their rugged landscape because they work there, they belong there, they know what the place is, where the bones were broken, not like the aesthetes from the cities who see only a shallow, sunny afternoon’s image of the land.”
Imagine a grey, rainy afternoon in the Pacific Northwest.
As we set out from Olympia to Aberdeen on a highway that weaves through densely forested and hilly terrain, we’re playing the obligatory Nirvana soundtrack followed by the theme music from Twin Peaks.7 There are few stops along the way and the only signs of life are a handful of scattered farms, dilapidated barns and the occasional abandoned, sometimes half-built, breeze-block building whose purpose is ambiguous. Before you reach Aberdeen, there’s a small town called Montesano. This is where Kurt lived with his dad for a time. The man working at the Chevron station immediately identifies us as ‘big towners’. He knows we aren’t from the area because he knows everyone in the town. He explains that most people pass through here on their way to the big casinos in Ocean Shores. If it wasn’t for the constant drizzle and gusty winds, we could probably comfortably traverse the city limits in an hour by foot.
Kurt’s dad’s old home is on Fleet Street, not too far off the freeway (there again, nothing is). The house is of modest size and well-kept, just a few houses away from the end of the street – a dead end – which leads to a repair shop that services cement trucks and construction equipment. The nearby railroad tracks appear to be derelict. A bike ride away is the combined junior high/high school where Kurt went for his freshman year. There is a small baseball field across the street, and a parking lot that could probably accommodate 20 cars or SUVs.
Driving into Aberdeen, it’s hard to tell whether the sky is covered in fog, clouds or smoke from the smokestacks. Dense forest appears to surround the freeway and the river, but on closer examination the area is barren behind the first layer of trees. There is a logging factory immediately to the left, across the water. Timber is stacked up and stretches out in piles for several acres. What little traffic there is can be attributed to trucks toting lumber, RVs and station wagons. As we cross the city limits, we get to see the new, improved Aberdeen sign. As of April 2005, the Kurt Cobain Memorial Committee erected a new board with the words ‘Come As You Are’8 added to the bottom of ‘Welcome To Aberdeen’. There’s nowhere convenient to pull off the main stretch of road to take pictures, so we do what a few others have already clearly done (tyre marks as evidence), stopping on the narrow hard shoulder.
Near the bridge there’s a Scenic Overlook point that perversely overlooks lumber-yards and smokestacks. There is a Wal-Mart with American flags adorning its façade, a McDonald’s with its familiar yellow arch, Taco Bell, Ross and Pizza Hut – the corporate images from a thousand American malls giving the temporary illusion of a successful, commercial area. Once we drive on a mile or so further, however, across another bridge, the picture is entirely different. Many of the homes are boarded up and businesses closed down. A pretty even mix of mom and pop stores litter the town’s main shopping area, and the neighbourhoods are mostly small houses situated close together, decked out in the faded pastel colours popular in the Seventies. The rain, the constant cloud, the fumes and the distant rumble of Highway 12 create a tepid pall across the town. The city seems worn out.
If it was sunny, you could imagine kids gathering in the park to play among the sea lion statues that shoot water from their mouths.
Our first stop is underneath North Aberdeen Bridge, a short road span that straddles the Wishkah River where legend has it that a runaway Kurt Cobain slept during the winter of 1985. We park on the dead-end street where Kurt’s family lived (First Street), walk one block down to the crest of the bridge, climb through some overgrown brush and weeds and skittle down an embankment to its underbelly. There’s no official monument: instead there’s a few empty beer cans, some faded graffiti … I Kurt, cobaincase.com, Kurt Rests in Heaven, 20 hour drive to see your bridge – we love you Kurt, Kurdt9: am I stupid for writing on this walright now, or is it still OK to? Your music is a gift to us all … piles of cigarette butts and some random bits of trash. It seems almost cosy down here, with a surprising amount of shelter and refuge from the rain. Like the names of so many American rivers, Wishkah sounds exotic, a throwback to the Native Americans who would have bathed in, washed in and drank from its waters – but this is a brown and murky Wishkah, littered with broken wood and pilings jutting out from the surface. The woods reach all the way to the banks of the river.
The First Street residence is covered in chipped paint and surrounded by unkempt rose bushes. It’s not deserted, but the house and its neighbours are eerily quiet. Where is everyone? An overweight kid wearing a Grateful Dead T appears from the house across the street. He eyes us suspiciously from his front porch. We decide to move on as his painfully overweight mother emerges from their home, an equally suspicious look on her heavy face.
Down the street, there’s a clerk inside a spacious Thriftway shop explaining to a customer that 60-year-olds and over get their discount on Tuesdays only. The store sells everything from used wire hangers to fabrics, old trophies, folders and binders, clothing, baskets, tins and cheap Halloween decorations. There is a shelf with old romance novels, self-help manuals and a wide variety of religious works. The clerk sees us taking notes and asks us, dryly, what we’re doing. We explain that we’re just going around learning about Nirvana. She says: “Oh right, Nir-van-a. Is that the guy that died?”
We walk around the corner to ‘the shack’ where Kurt and Matt Lukin lived: it’s now completely unliveable (perhaps it always was), the windows boarded up and the roof caved in. The paint is stripped away and there are nails protruding from several surfaces. Graffiti on the side says, ‘Cripts Rule’. They could at least spell it right. Other vacant, decaying houses surround the shack, as if one diseased house has infected the rest. There is one well-kept home decorated with ‘Support Our Troops’’ and ‘United We Stand’ stickers10, but mostly this particular street is uninhabited … left to fall by the wayside.
Kurt and Krist’s high school, Aberdeen High – home of the Aberdeen Bobcats – is housed in an unexpectedly small building; two, maybe three, storeys high. A fire occurred recently in the historic wing, apparently caused by students attempting to burn school records. The absent wing has been replaced with a gravel parking lot, with spaces for cars marked on the rocks with spray paint. This building looks like a large cinderblock, prison-like … anyone seeing it for the first time might well be tempted to drop out, just like Kurt. A large yellow and blue painted rock rests on a platform. It’s hard to figure out its significance – maybe Aberdeen’s take on abstract art?
We visit Judy’s, an antique book and record shop next door to Krist’s mom’s old hair salon, which is across the street from what used to be the YMCA where Kurt worked. The place seems closed because the doors and windows are entirely blocked with books, but Judy sees us and lets us in. She’s not usually open on Wednesdays, she says. Judy remembers the Nirvana guys coming in quite often, mostly buying records. She says Shelli (Krist’s ex-wife) sometimes bought games, and Krist’s mom would do her hair.
Aberdeen feels lethargic. The products in the antique shops sum the place up: overused, dirty and neglected. There are billboards and marquees spouting bible verses and religious propaganda: it’s that sort of a town. There’s even a pastor on the sidewalk, waving to oncoming traffic as if beckoning them into his church, like those guys who wear sandwich boards or chicken costumes to advertise the daily specials.
This is the reality that Kurt Cobain – and childhood friend Krist Novoselic (of Croatian heritage and also the product of a broken home) – was born into. A place that maybe once existed, once had a heart and bustling soul but is now just another white trash trailer stop off the freeway, a place you’d never visit in a million years unless you had a reason to.
“Aberdeen was real scary: redneck, hell town, backwoods, like a village or a big city for lumberjacks,” Krist told me in Nirvana’s first mainstream interview in February 1989. “You see Jack Nicholson in Easy Rider talking about rednecks? About how if they see something different they don’t go running scared, they get dangerous. Aberdeen’s like that. But they were so bone-headed, why shouldn’t we be different from them?”
“Aberdeen was really out there,” comments former Nirvana drummer Chad Channing from the relative security of his present-day house on Bainbridge Island, a ferry-ride away from Seattle. “It was a total logger town or something, you know? It’s this place I could never picture living in. These people just seemed to work all day and drink all night. It seemed kind of rundown. It’s a place on the verge of not being a town any more. Why did you go there and why is this place – how is it existing? What keeps it running?”
A lot of towns are like that in America.
“Well, it makes you wonder,” he replies. “In every small town there are usually people who have lived there their whole lives. Aberdeen’s one of those towns where I couldn’t imagine doing that. How could you do that? Down the road you could be in your seventies or eighties. ‘I’ve been here all my life.’ ‘Geez, I’m sorry – you’re not dead yet?’”
Kurt Cobain was eight when his parents divorced, the reasons predictably similar to those of thousands of other couples caught in the same predicament. They married too young, and the harsh economic pressures of trying to keep their small household together drove them apart. Don Cobain changed jobs in ’74, and took an entry-level job into the timber industry – office work at Mayr Brothers – but at $4.10 an hour, less than he’d been earning as a mechanic. The Cobains would frequently borrow money from Don’s parents, Leland and Iris. Kurt became increasingly wayward, and his father tried to keep him in line, inflicting almost daily psychological punishments – thumping him on the chest with two fingers – and, of course, there was the famed ‘lump of coal’ Christmas present, wherein Don and Wendy threatened Kurt he’d only receive a lump of coal in his Christmas stocking if he continued fighting with his sister. It didn’t happen – it was meant as a joke – but it left enough of an imprint on a young Kurt for him to claim later that it did, that on Christmas morning one year he found a lump of coal by his bed instead of a five-dollar Starsky and Hutch gun.11
“My story is exactly the same as 90 per cent of everyone my age,” he told Guitar World. “Everyone’s parents got divorced. Their kids smoked pot all through high school, they grew up during the era when there was a massive Communist threat and everyone thought they were going to die from a nuclear war. And everyone’s personalities are practically the same.”
The year before the divorce was, by all accounts, pleasurable for the Cobains – there was a trip to Disneyland south of Los Angeles, and a visit to the hospital where Kurt’s broken arm was reset after some boisterous rough-and-tumble with Don’s brother Gary had gone too far; even the unlikely image of Kurt stepping out as a baseball player in his local Little League team. It was suggested that his hyperactivity might be due to attention deficit disorder. Food colourings were removed from his diet, followed by sugar. When that didn’t work and he was still marching round the house banging a drum and screaming at the top of his voice12, he was placed on Ritalin for three months.
It was the divorce that really changed Kurt’s perspective on life. Almost overnight he became withdrawn. His mother Wendy told Nirvana biographer Michael Azerrad that Kurt became “real sullen, kind of mad and always frowning and ridiculing”. On the wall of his bedroom in June 1976, a few months after the divorce, Kurt scrawled, “I hate Mom, I hate Dad, Dad hates Mom, Mom hates Dad, it simply makes you want to be sad,” with caricatures of his parents to one side. The divorce was acrimonious: Wendy wanted to split from Don because she felt he wasn’t around very much; Don contested the split and remained in a state of denial for a considerable period afterwards. Both parents admitted they used the kids in the war between them. Wendy got the house and the kids; Don was granted the 1965 Ford pick-up truck; Wendy got the 1968 Camaro; Don was instructed to pay $150 a month child support.
Don moved into his parents’ Montesano trailer. Kurt hated his mom’s new boyfriend, who was prone to violent fits and whom he called “a mean wife-beater” (he once broke Wendy’s arm). Soon after the divorce he asked to live with his dad. Don was granted custody in June 1979. For the remainder of his formative years the troubled child was bounced back and forth between parents and relatives. Kurt began to develop stomach problems, caused by malnutrition. Initially, Kurt felt buoyed by the close relationship developed through necessity between father and son, even though Don’s idea of a bonding experience was to take him to work. Later, he felt betrayed after Don remarried – to Jenny Westby, who had two kids of her own, of whom Kurt felt intensely jealous.
From being a happy, outgoing kid, Kurt became incredibly insecure.
NOTES
1 Mark Arm: singer with Mudhoney, the archetypal late Eighties Seattle band for whom the term ‘grunge’ was coined. Arm was a major influence on Kurt Cobain.
2 Mari – sister to Wendy – claims to be the first person to have placed a guitar in Kurt’s hands, when he was two. She was 15 years old, and played guitar herself. “He turned it around the other way because he was left-handed,” she told Seattle journalist Gillian G. Gaar.
3 Bruce Pavitt, founder of Sub Pop records. Leg is a reference to my stage name, The Legend!, which is how I was first introduced to many in this story.
4 Strictly speaking Washington is the most north-western state in the contiguous 48 states. Let’s not forget Alaska.
5 Aberdeen’s suicide rate was twice the national average in 1991, at 27 people per 100,000. In July ’79, one of Kurt’s great-uncles, Burle Cobain, committed suicide (gunshot to the abdomen). Five years later, Burle’s brother Kenneth shot himself in the head. By choosing to die the way he did, Kurt – either knowingly or unknowingly – chose the perfect Aberdeen death.
6 Financial Times magazine, May 18, 2005.
7 Kurt described his home town as being like “Twin Peaks … without the excitement.” In actuality, Twin Peaks was filmed 162 miles up the road at the rather picturesque blue-collar holiday resort Snoqualmie Falls.
8 ‘Come As You Are’ was the second single lifted from Nevermind.
9 Kurdt was the spelling Kurt first gave to his name in Nirvana. He also briefly spelt his surname Kobain.
10