About the Book

Debbie Bliss is firmly established as the most stylish and accessible designer of children’s knitwear working today. In this latest book she returns to her core territory, with a fabulous collection of new ideas for 0-3 year olds. Divided into three chapters – Simple, Cosy and Special – the book contains ideas for every need. Simple has plenty of gorgeous designs for knitting beginners and for those who do not have too much time; Cosy contains warm and cuddly knits that babies will love to snuggle up in; and Special has ideas for knits to give as gifts or that will be cherished for years to come. Whether you want to knit a simple baby blanket or first cardigan, make a chunky sweater for a toddler, or create an irresistible pair of embroidered booties, The Baby Knits Book is the collection you need.

• Includes plenty of quick ideas for knitting beginners
• Provides ultra-wearable as well as ultra-stylish designs that cater for the smallest baby to the most active toddler
• Contains gorgeous gift ideas for knits that will be cherished for years

About the Author

Debbie Bliss is the foremost knitwear designer for children. With a string of bestselling titles to her name, she regularly tours the US, Canada and other countries, giving lectures and doing workshops and has her own Debbie Bliss branded yarn range which is sold worldwide. Debbie lives in London with her husband and two children. Her website is www.debbieblissonline.com.

For my very special friend Patsy and her mother Isabel

introduction

There is always something very special about knitting for babies and children – nothing can compare to the message and unique quality that hand-knitted garments hold.

The Baby Knits Book is divided into Simple, Cosy and Special. The Simple chapter includes easy knits for the beginner and for those, like new mothers, who do not have much time on their hands. The designs here are worked in basic stitches and classic styles – a soft cashmere-mix jacket and top, a throw, luxurious and gentle enough to wrap against a baby’s skin, a kimono and a tank top. The Cosy chapter has generous sweaters to snuggle into, outdoor sporty knits for active children, and a bear in a lamb suit to cuddle up to. In the Special section jackets and shoes are embellished with embroidery and beads, perfect for gifts, and there is an heirloom alphabet blanket to be cherished for years.

All the designs have been knitted in my own range of yarns which have been especially selected not only for their baby-friendly handle but for their easy wash and wear as well. The collection has also been put together to reflect the range of knitting skills, from the basic to the more advanced.

designing for children

There are certain points I always try to keep in mind when I am designing for babies and children. I tend to produce cardigans rather than sweaters for small babies as they dislike having garments pulled over their heads, and it can be difficult to dress them when they are too small to sit up. If I am working on a sweater design for this age I will introduce a shoulder fastening, an envelope neck, or a front or back neck opening. Another practical style is a ballerina, cross-over style which avoids buttons, as they can be uncomfortable when babies roll on to their tummies. I will only use yarn that I know is soft and kind to babies’ skin.

Older children can be more of a challenge. I believe that we often have to use all our powers of persuasion to encourage them to wear hand knits. They have been brought up in a world of fleeces, sweatshirts and man-made fibres, and they are used to wearing fabrics that move with them and are light, soft and comfortable. With this thought uppermost, I allow plenty of ease in the garments, especially at the underarm, and particularly if they are worked in a very textured pattern such as an Aran which produces a denser and less elastic fabric.

I always quote the actual measurements of the garments and the age of the wearer rather than the chest measurement. This is because from personal experience although I could always remember the age of my children, I floundered when it came to knowing the chest size! The chest size can also be rather a red herring – all designs, unless they are very tightly fitting fashion garments for an adult, have ease. Ease is the extra measurement allowed for comfort and movement, and also to create a particular style such as a generous outerwear cabled sweater. Some readers have queried the quoted measurements on my children’s designs because they are comparing adult’s chest measurements with the actual measurements of a child’s garment. I usually ask them to measure an existing garment that the child they are knitting for wears, and they are usually surprised to find that they match up closely to the measurements in the pattern. I also like to think that the time and money, not to mention love, that has been invested into knitting the design should be rewarded by having a knit that will see the child through at least a couple of years, even if a rather larger than is strictly needed garment is produced originally. However, if the reader is not happy with my measurements I will always suggest that they knit a smaller or larger size.

Try to involve the child in the design you are knitting for them rather than just produce one in the colours or style you like! It is a wonderful opportunity to teach them from an early age that not all their clothes just appear by magic in shops, that they can be lovingly made especially for them. It is also a great way to introduce them to the craft and to looking at colours and textures. Even choosing buttons can be fun.

basic information

Following pattern instructions

Figures for larger sizes are given in round () brackets. Where only one figure appears, this applies to all sizes. Work the figures given in square [ ] brackets the number of times stated afterwards. Where 0 appears, no stitches or rows are worked for this size. As you follow the pattern, make sure that you are consistently using the right stitches for your size – it is only too easy to switch sizes inside the brackets. One way to avoid this is to go through the instructions first and mark off the size you are knitting with a coloured marker or highlighter.

The quantities of yarn quoted in the instructions are based on the yarn used by the knitter for the original garment and amounts should therefore be considered approximate. A slight variation in tension can make the difference between using less or more yarn than that stated in the pattern. Before buying the yarn look at the measurements in the knitting patterns to be sure which size you want to knit. My patterns quote the actual finished size of the garment, not the chest size of the wearer. The length of the garment is taken from the shoulder shaping to the cast-on edge.

Tension

Each pattern in the book states a tension or gauge – the number of stitches and rows per centimetre or inch that should be obtained with the given needles, yarn and stitch pattern. Check your tension carefully before starting work. A slight variation in tension can spoil the look of a garment and alter the proportions that the designer wanted. A too loose tension will produce uneven knitting and an unstable fabric that can droop or lose it’s shape after washing, whilst too tight a tension can create a hard, unforgiving fabric.

To make a tension square use the same needles, yarn and stitch pattern quoted in the tension note in the pattern. Knit a sample at least 12.5cm/5in square. Smooth out the finished sample on a flat surface but do not stretch it. To check the stitch tension place a tape measure horizontally on the sample and mark 10cm/4in with pins. Count the number of stitches between pins. To check the row tension place the tape measure vertically on the sample and mark 10cm/4in. Count the number of rows between the pins. If the number of stitches and rows is greater than that stated in the pattern, try again using larger needles. If the number of stitches and rows is less, use smaller needles. If you are only able to obtain either the stitch or the row tension, it is the stitch tension that is the most important to get right, as the length of many patterns are calculated by measurement rather than the amount or rows you need to work to achieve it.

Garment care

Taking care of your knitted garments is important. If you have invested all that time and labour into knitting them, you want them to look good for as long as possible. Follow these guidelines for the best results.

Check the yarn label for washing instructions. Most yarns can now be machine washed on a delicate wool cycle. Prior to washing, make a note of the measurements of the garment, such as the width and length. After washing lay the garment flat and check the measurements again to see if they are the same. If not, smooth and pat it back into shape.

Some knitters prefer to hand wash their garments. Use soap flakes specially created for hand knits, and warm rather than hot water. Handle the knits gently in the water – do not rub or wring, as this can felt the fabric. Rinse well to get rid of any soap, and squeeze out excess water. You may need to get rid of more water by rolling the garment in a towel, or you can use the delicate spin cycle of the washing machine. Dry the garment by laying it out flat on top of a towel to absorb moisture, smooth and pat into shape. Do not dry knits near direct heat such as a radiator. Store your knits loosely folded to allow the air to circulate.

Needle conversion chart

This needle conversion chart covers all the knitting needle sizes used for the patterns in this book.

UK metric	US sizes
2¾mm	size 2
3mm	size 2/3
3¼mm	size 3
3¾mm	size 5
4mm	size 6
4½mm	size 7
5mm	size 8

UK and US knitting terminology

The following terms that are used in the book may be unfamiliar to US readers.

Standard abbreviations

alt = alternate

beg = begin(ning)

cont = continu(e)ing

dec = decreas(e)ing

foll = following

inc = increas(e)ing

k = knit

m1 = make one by picking up the loop lying between st just worked and next st and working into back of it

patt = pattern

p = purl

psso = pass slipped st over

rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat(ing)

skpo = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over

sl = slip

st(s) = stitch(es)

st st = stocking stitch

tbl = through back loop

tog = together

yf = yarn forward

yon = yarn over needle

yrn = yarn round needle

types of yarns

Fibres are divided into two main categories, natural and synthetic. Natural fibres are then divided into animal fibres – wool, angora, cashmere, silk, etc. – and those from vegetable fibres such as cotton, linen and hemp. This is a guide to the yarns used in this book.

Wool

Wool spun from the fleece of sheep is the yarn that is the most commonly associated with knitting. It has many excellent qualities, as it is durable, elastic, and warm in the winter. Wool yarn is particularly good for working colour patterns, as the fibres adhere together and help prevent the gaps that can appear in Fair Isle or intarsia.

Some knitters find that a simple stitch such as moss stitch or garter stitch can look neater when worked in a wool rather than a cotton yarn.

Cotton

Cotton yarn, made from a natural plant fibre, is an ideal all-seasons yarn, as it is warm in the winter and cool in the summer. I particularly love to work in cotton because it gives a clarity of stitch that shows up subtle stitch patterning such as a moss stitch border on a collar or cuffs.

Cotton and wool

Knitting in yarn that is a blend of wool and cotton is particularly good for children’s wear. This is because the wool fibres give elasticity for comfort and the cotton content is perfect for children who find wool irritating against the skin.

Cashmere

Cashmere is made from the underhair of a particular Asian goat. It is associated with the ultimate in luxury, and is unbelievably soft to the touch. If combined with merino wool and microfibre, as in my cashmerino yarn range, it is perfect for babies.

Silk

Silk is a fibre produced by certain caterpillars as they spin their cocoon. Combined with cotton, as in my cotton/silk range, it can make beautiful yarn that also has hardwearing qualities.

buying yarn

Always try to buy the yarn quoted in the knitting pattern. The designer will have created the design specifically with that yarn in mind and a substitute may produce a garment that is different from the original. For instance, the design may rely for it’s appeal on a subtle stitch pattern that is lost when using a yarn of an inferior quality, or a synthetic when used to replace a natural yarn such as cotton will create a limp fabric and the crispness of the original design lost. We cannot accept responsibility for the finished product if any yarn other than the one specified is used.