Cover
About the Book
About the Authors
List of Recipes
Title Page
Introduction
Bread
Flatbread
Morito Rolls
Chorizo and Fennel Seed Rolls
Green Olive and Walnut Rolls
Squid Ink Rolls
Leek and Feta Gözleme
Para Picar
Marinated Olives
Green Almonds with Salt
Iced Almonds with Salt
Roast Almonds with Paprika
Green Plums
Crispy Capers
Homemade Pickles
Morito Dukkah
Quail’s Eggs, Cumin and Salt
Cherry Chilli Peppers, Labneh and Pine Nuts
Pinchos
Pinchos(Pintxos)
Gilda
Anchovy, Tuna and Olive
Boquerón, Caper Berry and Piquillo Pepper
Squid, Caper Berry and Tomato
Octopus, Potato and Guindilla
Prawn, Artichoke and Jamón
Asparagus, Jamón and Quail’s Egg
Montaditos
Pan Con Tomate (Tomato Toast)
Pan Con Tomate Con Jamón (Tomato Toast with Jamón)
Quail’s Egg and Jamón
Serranito (Lomo, Jamón and Green Pepper)
Anchovy, Two Ways
Tomato and Anchovy
Avocado and Anchovy
Matrimonio
Oloroso Crab
Salt Cod Brandada and Tomato
Chorizo and Piquillo Pepper
Picos Cheese, Anchovy and Jamón
Morcilla and Green Pepper
Flatbread, Liver and Cumin
Eggs and Dairy
Red Pepper Tortilla
Spinach and Jamón Tortilla
Crisp Tortilla
Spring Vegetable Kuku
Courgette Tortilla
Prawn and Mushroom Revuelto
Sea Urchin or Oyster Revuelto
Scape and Prawn Revuelto
Anchovy, Egg and Harissa Brik
Homemade Labneh
Spiced Labneh
Tetilla Cheese with Fig and Walnut Jam
Halloumi, Grilled Onion and Olive Salad
Vegetables
Beetroot, Almonds and Mint
Roast Beetroot and Green Mayonnaise
Green Mayonnaise
Spinach and Lemon Salad
Spinach, Pine Nuts, Raisins and Anchovies
Spinach, Fennel and Herb Pie
Cauliflower, Tomato and Cumin
Cauliflower, Pine Nuts, Raisins and Saffron
Rhubarb and Tarragon Salad
Hummus
Fried Chickpeas and Chopped Salad
Fried Chickpeas, Butternut Squash and Tahini
Falafel
Green Tahini
Turkish Chopped Salad, Yoghurt and Chilli Butter
The Four Seasons of Tabbouleh
Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Fattoush
Radish and Pomegranate Salad
Setas Aliňadas (Marinated Mushrooms)
Grilled Courgette Salad, Sumac and Pine Nuts
Grilled Onion Salad, Pomegranates and Mint
Broad Beans with Jamón
Peas, Jamón and Anise
Peas, Gem Lettuce and Sweet Herbs
Wilted Lettuce, Crispy Bacon and Sherry Vinegar
Fried Artichokes
Artichokes, Chorizo and White Wine
Green Tomatoes, Cumin and Crispy Garlic
White Garlic Sauce
Grilled Peppers, Preserved Lemon and Crispy Capers
Baba Ghanoush
Fried Aubergines
Cucumber Chips and Dill Yoghurt
Slow-Cooked Leeks, Yoghurt and Walnuts
Carrot, Caraway and Feta
Green Beans, Tomato and Cinnamon Yoghurt
Pink Fir Apple and Feta Salad
Patatas Aliñadas
Wrinkled Potatoes with Mojo Verde
Mojo Verde
Patatas Bravas
Alioli
Fish
Salt Cod, Broad Beans and Mint
Salt Cod Croquetas
Pescaito Frito (Fried Fish)
Gambas Rojas a La Plancha
Prawns, Tamarind and Green Chilli
Prawns, Spinach and Harissa
Harissa
Tortillitas
Scallops a La Plancha
Scallops, Tomato and Chorizo
Razor Clams and Salpicón
Grilled Sardines, Coriander and Cumin
Mackerel Kebabs, Walnuts and Chilli
Octopus, Tomatoes, Capers and Dill
Pulpo Gallego
Octopus with Potato and Bean Purée
Cuttlefish, Chickpeas and Chilli Oil
Black Rice, Cuttlefish and Preserved Lemon
Mushroom and Prawn Rice
Fideos with Clams
Mussel and Chorizo Empanadillas
Mussels, Feta and Dill
Mussels, Prawns and Chorizo
Sea Bass Roe a La Plancha
Fish Head, Dates and Sherry Vinegar
Meat
Spiced Lamb, Aubergine and Mint
Lamb Chops Mechoui
Lamb Kebabs
Gaziantep Kibbeh
Morito Merguez
Lamb and Prune Tagine
Pastirma
Chicharrones De Cádiz
Sweet-Sour PX Pork
Butifarra, White Beans and Alioli
Jamón Croquetas
Crispy Panceta, Wild Mushrooms and Fino
Calf’s Liver, Cacik and Chilli Butter
Chicken and Preserved Lemon Tagine
Harissa Chicken, Olives and Preserved Lemon
Chicken, Tahini Yoghurt and Red Chilli
Piri Piri Chicken
Pigeon and Mellow Garlic Purée
Slow-Cooked Rabbit
Puddings
Crema Catalana
Walnut Baklava
Walnut Cake
Marianna’s Grape Compôte
Vanilla Ice Cream
Coffee Ice Cream
PX Ice Cream
Amaretto and Salted Marcona Almond Ice Cream
Anise Biscuits
Drinks
Rebujito
Cava Pomegranate
Tinto De Verano
Portonic
Vermut Espumoso
Fino Lacuesta
Negroni
Negroni Amontillado
Bicicleta
Gintonic
Bloody Old-Fashioned
PX Espresso Martini
Seville Orange Gin Martini
Seville-Orange-Infused Gin
Moritopolitan
Barberry Vodka
Cosita De Manzana (The Apple Thing)
Cardamom Vodka
Sugar Syrup
Suppliers
Acknowledgements
Copyright
As the little sister of Moro, Morito has been serving delicious and innovative tapas and mezze in the heart of London’s Exmouth Market for over three years. Morito’s cracked plaster walls and striking bright orange Formica bar create a space that is relaxed and welcoming but also edgy and cool, described by Times critic Giles Coren as, “simultaneously supercool and modest, and as much like a brilliant little backstreet place in Spain as you’ll find in this country.”
Sam and Sam Clark’s little gem of a tapas bar packs a big culinary punch, attracting critical acclaim and constant queues. Now, with the publication of the cookbook of this hugely successful restaurant, Morito’s small plates can be cooked, eaten and shared at home. Photographed over the course of two years often by members of the Morito team, the pages of the book invite you in to celebrate and share the special character and atmosphere of Morito, which people often say ‘hits you like a wall of joy’.
There are over 150 simple and seasonal recipes arranged in 10 chapters. Choose from (Breads) Za’atar Flatbreads, (Pinchos) Anchovy, Pickled Chilli and Olive Gilda, (Montaditos) Crab Toasts with Oloroso Sherry, (Eggs and Dairy) Huevos Rotos – Broken Eggs with Chorizo and Potato, (Vegetables) Beetroot Borani with Feta, Dill and Walnuts or Crispy Chickpeas with Chopped Salad, (Fish) Sea bass Ceviche with Seville Orange, or Black Rice with Preserved Lemon, (Meat) Lamb Chops Mechoui with Cumin or Smoked Aubergine with Spiced Lamb and Chilli Butter, as well as a handful of classic Morito Puddings and Drinks.
Sam and Sam Clark not only work together but are also husband and wife, and have both cooked at leading restaurants such as the Eagle gastro-pub and The River Cafe. After they were married, Sam and Sam bought a camper van and set off on a three-month journey through Spain, Morocco and the Sahara. Sharing a passion for the Moorish regions, they joined forces to open Moro in Clerkenwell in 1997. Since then, the restaurant has enjoyed unequalled reviews and accolades. In 2011 they opened Morito, just next door – a Barcelona-style tapas bar. They have published three books: The Moro Cookbook, Casa Moro and Moro East (combined sales of 300,000).
As the little sister of Moro, Morito is the noisier, more rebellious sibling, eager to experiment and explore. Through our collection of tapas and mezze recipes you will be transported to both the present day hustle and bustle of London’s Exmouth market and a Mediterranean country of our choice.
With this book we wanted to introduce you to two of our great loves: our varied and mad staff and the loyal, beating heart that is London’s Clerkenwell. It is impossible to think how Sam and I could enjoy cooking without these two factors in our lives. We acknowledge, here and now, that we would be nothing without the people we work with who breathe life into what we do, and to this great city that supports us.
People talk about the atmosphere in Moro and Morito, ‘that hits you like a wall of joy’. There must be some strange alchemy involved because it’s impossible to analyse or copy. All we know is that we are grateful every day and these pages celebrate the special environment where the creativity begins.
First and foremost this book is here to help you eat and cook wonderful mezze and tapas. The unique atmosphere this brings to the table should be a part of everyone’s life. There is something inherently joyful and social about eating in this way. Thousands of possible food combinations lie within this book, none of which is wrong as long as you are happy. Just follow a few basic rules about trying to shop seasonally while varying the colour, flavour and texture within the mix.
Different effects can be brought to a meal, depending on how you approach the timing. At Morito plates are placed on the table as they are ready. Usually bread, olives and cold things first, followed by the hot things one by one as ready. This drawn-out way of eating exaggerates the sense of anticipation and extends the pleasure. Alternatively, BAM! Everything can be placed on the table at once for both impact and beauty. Or somewhere in between, perhaps?
Hopefully when you become familiar with where the recipes come from you can play, eating solely Spanish food accompanied by fine sherries or perhaps just mezze plates, accompanied by a healthy glass of Turkish raki or arak from the Lebanon. Whichever way you choose to use this book, we believe there is great potential for you to produce many an evocative and memorable meal.
Sam and Sam Clark
Alioli
Amaretto and Salted Marcona Almond Ice Cream
Anchovy, Egg and Harissa Brik
Anchovy, Tuna and Olive
Anchovy, Two Ways
Anise Biscuits
Artichokes, Chorizo and White Wine
Asparagus, Jamón and Quail’s Egg
Autumn
Avocado and Anchovy
Baba Ghanoush
Barberry Vodka
Beetroot, Almonds and Mint
Bicicleta
Black Rice, Cuttlefish and Preserved Lemon
Bloody Old-Fashioned
Boquerón, Caper Berry and Piquillo Pepper
Broad Beans with Jamón
Butifarra, White Beans and Alioli
Calf’s Liver, Cacik and Chilli Butter
Cardamom Vodka
Carrot, Caraway and Feta
Cauliflower, Pine Nuts, Raisins and Saffron
Cauliflower, Tomato and Cumin
Cava Pomegranate
Cherry Chilli Peppers, Labneh and Pine Nuts
Chicharrones De Cádiz
Chicken and Preserved Lemon Tagine
Chicken, Tahini Yoghurt and Red Chilli
Chorizo and Fennel Seed Rolls
Chorizo and Piquillo Pepper
Coffee Ice Cream
Cosita De Manzana (The Apple Thing)
Courgette Tortilla
Crema Catalana
Crisp Tortilla
Crispy Capers
Crispy Panceta, Wild Mushrooms and Fino
Cucumber Chips and Dill Yoghurt
Cuttlefish, Chickpeas and Chilli Oil
Falafel
Fattoush
Fideos with Clams
Fino Lacuesta
Fish Head, Dates and Sherry Vinegar
Flatbread
Flatbread, Liver and Cumin
Fried Artichokes
Fried Aubergines
Fried Chickpeas and Chopped Salad
Fried Chickpeas, Butternut Squash and Tahini
Gambas Rojas a La Plancha
Gaziantep Kibbeh
Gilda
Gintonic
Green Almonds with Salt
Green Beans, Tomato and Cinnamon Yoghurt
Green Mayonnaise
Green Olive and Walnut Rolls
Green Plums
Green Tahini
Green Tomatoes, Cumin and Crispy Garlic
Grilled Courgette Salad, Sumac and Pine Nuts
Grilled Onion Salad, Pomegranates and Mint
Grilled Peppers, Preserved Lemon and Crispy Capers
Grilled Sardines, Coriander and Cumin
Halloumi, Grilled Onion and Olive Salad
Harissa
Harissa Chicken, Olives and Preserved Lemon
Homemade Labneh
Homemade Pickles
Huevos Rotos
Hummus
Iced Almonds with Salt
Jamón Croquetas
Lamb and Prune Tagine
Lamb Chops Mechoui
Lamb Kebabs
Leek and Feta Gözleme
Mackerel Kebabs, Walnuts and Chilli
Marianna’s Grape Compôte
Marinated Olives
Matrimonio
Mojo Verde
Morcilla and Green Pepper
Morito Dukkah
Morito Merguez
Morito Rolls
Moritopolitan
Mushroom and Prawn Rice
Mussel and Chorizo Empanadillas
Mussels, Feta and Dill
Mussels, Prawns and Chorizo
Negroni
Negroni Amontillado
Octopus with Potato and Bean Purée
Octopus, Potato and Guindilla
Octopus, Tomatoes, Capers and Dill
Oloroso Crab
Pan Con Tomate (Tomato Toast)
Pan Con Tomate Con Jamón (Tomato Toast with Jamón)
Pastirma
Patatas Aliñadas
Patatas Bravas
Peas, Gem Lettuce and Sweet Herbs
Peas, Jamón and Anise
Pescaito Frito (Fried Fish)
Picos Cheese, Anchovy and Jamón
Pigeon and Mellow Garlic Purée
Pinchos(Pintxos)
Pink Fir Apple and Feta Salad
Piri Piri Chicken
Portonic
Prawn and Mushroom Revuelto
Prawn, Artichoke and Jamón
Prawns, Spinach and Harissa
Prawns, Tamarind and Green Chilli
Pulpo Gallego
PX Espresso Martini
PX Ice Cream
Quail’s Egg and Jamón
Quail’s Eggs, Cumin and Salt
Radish and Pomegranate Salad
Razor Clams and Salpicón
Rebujito
Red Pepper Tortilla
Rhubarb and Tarragon Salad
Roast Almonds with Paprika
Roast Beetroot and Green Mayonnaise
Salt Cod Brandada and Tomato
Salt Cod Croquetas
Salt Cod, Broad Beans and Mint
Scallops a La Plancha
Scallops, Tomato and Chorizo
Scape and Prawn Revuelto
Sea Bass Roe a La Plancha
Sea Urchin or Oyster Revuelto
Serranito (Lomo, Jamón and Green Pepper)
Setas Aliňadas (Marinated Mushrooms)
Seville Orange Gin Martini
Seville-Orange-Infused Gin
Slow-Cooked Leeks, Yoghurt and Walnuts
Slow-Cooked Rabbit
Spiced Labneh
Spiced Lamb, Aubergine and Mint
Spinach and Jamón Tortilla
Spinach and Lemon Salad
Spinach, Fennel and Herb Pie
Spinach, Pine Nuts, Raisins and Anchovies
Spring
Spring Vegetable Kuku
Squid Ink Rolls
Squid, Caper Berry and Tomato
Sugar Syrup
Summer
Sweet-Sour PX Pork
Tetilla Cheese with Fig and Walnut Jam
The Four Seasons of Tabbouleh
Tinto De Verano
Tomato and Anchovy
Tortillitas
Turkish Chopped Salad, Yoghurt and Chilli Butter
Vanilla Ice Cream
Vermut Espumoso
Walnut Baklava
Walnut Cake
White Garlic Sauce
Wilted Lettuce, Crispy Bacon and Sherry Vinegar
Winter
Wrinkled Potatoes with Mojo Verde
Bread is a symbol and bread is a tool. A symbol of life itself, a means of sharing your life with others. A tool of the most primitive yet sensual nature, used to scoop up little morsels of food to the mouth. For Morito we made the decision not to use sourdough bread. We felt that the Moro sourdough was not suited to every type of food. Good chewy bread, without being too heavy: that was what we wanted. We developed this recipe to make excellent flatbreads and these, as well as bread rolls and some crunchy picos (Spanish breadsticks), make up the Morito bread basket.
Flatbread
Morito Rolls
Chorizo and Fennel Seed Rolls
Green Olive and Walnut Rolls
Squid Ink Rolls
Leek and Feta Gözleme
Za’atar is the name of a wild herb indigenous to the Middle East that tastes somewhere in between thyme and savory and is believed to promote strength. In the Lebanon, a blend of dried za’atar, toasted sesame seeds and ground sumac berries is mixed with olive oil and spread on flatbread called man’oushe. Man’oushe hot off the grill, rolled and stuffed with tomato, cucumber, black olives and mint, was one of our culinary highlights of Beirut. If you can’t get za’atar or sumac, we recommend a mixture of 6 parts sesame seeds to 1 part dried oregano and 1 part dried thyme.
Makes 10–15 flatbreads
600ml tepid water
750g organic strong white bread flour (Shipton Mill or Doves Farm), plus extra for dusting
1 heaped teaspoon dried yeast
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon sugar
olive oil, for drizzling
1 tablespoon za’atar spice mix (see here)
Put all the ingredients except the olive oil and za’atar in a bowl or food mixer with a dough hook. Thoroughly combine, then knead for 5 minutes, or more if working by hand, until the dough feels smooth and elastic. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead again for 3 minutes. Allow the dough to relax, covered, for about 30 minutes.
Sprinkle a clean surface with flour. Knead the dough in the bowl briefly one more time, then pinch off pieces of dough a little larger than a golf ball. Sprinkle more flour on top, flatten them slightly and roll each one into a thin disc (around 3mm thick) with a rolling pin.
At Morito we grill flatbreads over charcoal to give them a delicious smokiness. Simply drizzle one side of the rolled-out dough with a little olive oil, sprinkle on a little za’atar, then transfer to a low to medium barbecue and grill each flatbread on both sides until slightly charred and puffed up in places. Otherwise, heat a large frying pan or griddle pan over a medium heat, add 1 teaspoon of oil to the pan and wipe off the excess with kitchen paper. Drizzle one side of each flatbread with a little olive oil, then sprinkle with the za’atar, and cook on both sides as before.
Morito rolls came about in an effort to replicate the delicious molletes most famously produced from a 200-year-old recipe in Antequera, in the province of Málaga. Their character is a moist chewy roll that is deliciously crunchy when toasted. Perfect for all our needs.
Makes 15–20 rolls
600ml tepid water
750g organic strong white bread flour (Shipton Mill or Doves Farm), plus extra for dusting
1 heaped teaspoon dried yeast
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon sugar
a little olive oil, for the baking sheets
Put all the ingredients except the oil in a bowl or food mixer with a dough hook. Thoroughly combine, then knead for 5 minutes, or more if working by hand, until the dough feels smooth and elastic. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead again for 3 minutes. Cover the dough and place in the fridge for 1–2 hours to relax. This helps when you shape the rolls, as the dough is quite sticky. Line 2 or more baking sheets with lightly oiled baking parchment.
To form the rolls, first give the dough one more quick knead in the bowl. Then pinch off pieces of dough just larger than a golf ball and place on the baking sheets in rough roundish shapes (the dough is very forgiving). Leave them to rest for 30–45 minutes in a warm place, until they have doubled in size. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.
Bake the rolls for 10–12 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack.
These rolls freeze well if par-baked for 10 minutes at 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. To finish, defrost thoroughly, put in an oven preheated to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 and cook for 5–10 minutes or until golden brown.
We cook the rolls in Moro’s wood oven. To protect them from the harsh, dry air of the kitchen, whilst proving and to save space, we made a proving box that fits one hundred rolls snugly.
We ate this bread in Avila, the pulse-growing region north-west of Madrid. Serve the rolls with a salad of cucumber, tomato, onion and olives.
Makes 15–20 rolls
1 quantity of Morito Rolls dough (see here)
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for the baking sheets
400g cooking chorizo, cut into small cubes, or slicing chorizo sliced into ribbons (see here)
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, lightly crushed, plus extra for sprinkling on top
After the dough has proved in the fridge, heat the olive oil over a medium heat and fry the chorizo pieces until they begin to crisp and caramelise. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly, then add to the dough, along with the oil in the pan and the crushed fennel seeds. Knead for 2–3 minutes; the dough will become a lovely pink colour.
Pinch off pieces of dough just larger than a golf ball and shape them into rough rounds. Place on 2 or more baking sheets lined with oiled baking parchment and leave to prove for 30–40 minutes in a warm place, until they have doubled in size. Bake as in the Morito Rolls recipe.
We first ate these stuffed breads on a family holiday in the Turkish city of Gaziantep, close to the Syrian border. One of our Morito chefs, Turguy, had invited us to his family home. We arrived to a table heaving with little plates of wonder and delicacy.
Makes 15–20 rolls
1 quantity of Morito Rolls dough (see here)
STUFFING
230g green olives, pitted and roughly chopped
200g walnuts, roughly chopped
3 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed, plus extra for sprinkling on top
1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, shredded
200ml extra virgin olive oil
juice of 2 small lemons
1 level tablespoon sugar
While the dough is proving in the fridge, mix all the stuffing ingredients together and season with a little salt and pepper.
To form each roll, place a piece of dough the size of a golf ball on one floured palm and flatten it. Put 1 tablespoon of the stuffing mixture in the centre and carefully fold the dough all around it to seal it in completely. Place the rolls, seam side down, on 2 or more baking sheets lined with lightly oiled baking parchment. Leave to prove and bake as in the Morito Rolls recipe.
If you find the idea of shaping, stuffing and cooking the rolls too daunting, this stuffing is good eaten alone with bread, flatbread or pitta.
You can find squid ink in a good fishmonger’s, delicatessen, or online. The addition of the ink to the dough will give it an incredibly rich, black colour and play games with your mind, making you believe the bread has been burnt to a crisp! At Morito we serve these rolls with grilled peppers, squid, and Mojo Verde (see here) or grilled leeks with anchovy and paprika butter. Delicious.
Makes 15–20 rolls
1 quantity of Morito Rolls dough (see here) incorporating 2 tablespoons or 8 × 4g sachets squid (or cuttlefish) ink (see here)
If you are using sachets of ink, soak them in boiling water for 1 minute to loosen them. Follow the method for making Morito Rolls, omitting the salt and adding the squid ink with the tepid water.
Gözleme is a sort of Turkish calzone, and this is a variation of the classic spinach and cheese gözleme. Ideal with some kind of crunchy salad.
Makes 4 gözleme
½ quantity of Morito Rolls dough (see here)
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little extra for frying
20g butter
2 large leeks, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Aleppo chilli flakes (see here) or ½ teaspoon chilli powder
2 handfuls of fresh mint leaves, finely shredded
½ teaspoon freshly ground cumin
½ teaspoon dried oregano
100g feta cheese, cut into slices 7–8mm thick and crumbled
flour, for dusting
Make the dough by hand, as the amount is too small for a food mixer. Place in the fridge to prove for 1–2 hours.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and butter in a pan. Add the leeks and a pinch of salt and cook for 10 minutes over a medium heat, stirring regularly. Now add the chilli, mint, cumin and oregano. Reduce the heat and continue to cook for another 10 minutes, until the leeks are soft and sweet. Remove, cool slightly, then stir in the feta and taste.
Try to avoid rolling the dough ahead of time, as it will become soft and difficult to handle. If you want to prepare the gözleme in advance, it is better to cook them, then simply reheat when needed. Take the dough out of the fridge, and give it a quick knead with your fingertips. Dust the work surface and rolling pin with lots of flour. Pinch off a quarter of the dough and place it on the floured surface. Dust with more flour and gently start to roll into a thin circle about 15cm in diameter and 2–3mm thick.
Cover half of the circle with one-quarter of the stuffing and spread evenly, though not quite to the edges. Fold over the other half of the dough to cover the filling then seal the edges by pressing them together. Repeat with the remaining dough and stuffing.
Heat a large lightly oiled frying pan over a medium heat. Place one gözleme in the pan (or on a low barbecue) and cook for 3 minutes until mottled brown underneath, turn over and repeat on the other side. Remove and cover loosely with foil. Repeat with the remaining gözleme. Serve warm or at room temperature.
‘Para picar’ literally means ‘for picking’, but the Spanish term sounds more charming. Nibbling plays an integral part in the eating habits of those who live around the Mediterranean. The name given to the ‘ritual’ may vary from country to country (tapas, mezze, antipasti, etc) but the core purpose of it is the same: enjoying the company of others with drinks, food and a gossip. It is a way of keeping the mind sane and nurturing the body. The following recipes are tapas or mezze in their simplest form, to accompany a glass of sherry, arak or raki.
Marinated Olives
Green Almonds with Salt
Iced Almonds with Salt
Roast Almonds with Paprika
Green Plums
Crispy Capers
Homemade Pickles
Morito Dukkah
Quail’s Eggs, Cumin and Salt
Cherry Chilli Peppers, Labneh and Pine Nuts
This olive marinade has its origins in the souks of Morocco: first-rate olives of varying shades, textures and sizes fragrantly spiced with harissa, orange, coriander and preserved lemon and piled high in ornate enamel bowls.
Serves 4–6
350g mixed olives in brine, arbequina, niçoise, gordal, kalamata, petit lucques (see here)
5 pickled chillies (see here), sliced into 1cm pieces
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
5 black peppercorns
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 red chilli, seeds in and cut into 5mm slices
zest and juice of 1 orange
3 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 tablespoon roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon Harissa (see here) (optional)
1 tablespoon preserved lemon rind, roughly chopped (see here)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Drain the olives and rinse briefly under cold water. Drain thoroughly again. Place in a bowl with all the other ingredients, stir well and leave to marinate for at least a couple of hours, preferably longer. These olives will keep well in the fridge for 2–3 weeks, covered, without the parsley.
In mid to late spring, Eastern Mediterranean grocers start to stock the much-loved green almonds, which are the immature nuts before the shell has developed. We use them for a few things at Morito: sliced thinly in salsas, pickled, or eaten in the classic way just with a little salt, as part of a mezze and perhaps with arak. Almond trees grow quite well in London, and I (Samuel) remember, aged ten, an Iranian friend picking a green almond off a tree and munching on it on the way to the swimming baths. He gave me one to try and it had a sour crunch like nothing I had ever tasted before. The almond tree is the most-loved tree in our garden, as we fill the house with its blossoming branches all through February and it still manages to produce lots of fruit in late spring. Luckily for us, the squirrels have not yet developed a taste for green almonds.