Deep South
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Paul Theroux


DEEP SOUTH

Four Seasons on Back Roads

HAMISH HAMILTON

UK | USA | Canada | Ireland | Australia
India | New Zealand | South Africa

Hamish Hamilton is part of the Penguin Random House group of companies whose addresses can be found at global.penguinrandomhouse.com.

Penguin Random House UK

First published in the United States of America by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2015
First published in Great Britain by Hamish Hamilton 2015

Copyright © Paul Theroux, 2015
Photography copyright © Steve McCurry

Photography © Steve McCurry/Magnum

The moral right of the author has been asserted

Portions of this book appeared in Smithsonian magazine.
Some names in the text have been changed in the interest of privacy.

Excerpt from ‘The Arkansas Testament’ from The Poetry of Derek Walcott, 1948–2013 by Derek Walcott, selected by Glyn Maxwell. Copyright © Derek Walcott, 2014.
Reprinted by permission of Farrar, Straus and Giroux, LLC.

ISBN: 978-0-241-96936-6

Contents

PART ONE

Fall: “You Gotta Be Going There to Get There”

INTERLUDE

The Taboo Word

PART TWO

Winter: “Ones Born Today Don’t Know How It Was”

INTERLUDE

The Paradoxes of Faulkner

PART THREE

Spring: Redbud in Bloom

INTERLUDE

The Fantastications of Southern Fiction

PART FOUR

Summer: The Odor of Sun-Heated Roads

Photographs

Photographs by Steve McCurry

Acknowledgments

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THE BEGINNING

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To the memory of George Davis (1941–2013) of Medford, Massachusetts—athlete, traveler, teacher, civil rights stalwart, unsung hero of Selma’s Bloody Sunday—in gratitude for fifty years of friendship

“We felt like we were alone and couldn’t make a difference. But what happened with the movement? People grouped together. It was a beautiful thing.”

Books by Paul Theroux

FICTION

WALDO

FONG AND THE INDIANS

GIRLS AT PLAY

MURDER IN MOUNT HOLLY

JUNGLE LOVERS

SINNING WITH ANNIE

SAINT JACK

THE BLACK HOUSE

THE FAMILY ARSENAL

THE CONSUL’S FILE

A CHRISTMAS CARD

PICTURE PALACE

LONDON SNOW

WORLD’S END

THE MOSQUITO COAST

THE LONDON EMBASSY

HALF MOON STREET

O-ZONE

MY SECRET HISTORY

CHICAGO LOOP

MILLROY THE MAGICIAN

MY OTHER LIFE

KOWLOON TONG

HOTEL HONOLULU

THE STRANGER AT THE PALAZZO D’ORO

BLINDING LIGHT

THE ELEPHANTA SUITE

A DEAD HAND

THE LOWER RIVER

MR. BONES

CRITICISM

V. S. NAIPAUL

NONFICTION

THE GREAT RAILWAY BAZAAR

THE OLD PATAGONIAN EXPRESS

THE KINGDOM BY THE SEA

SAILING THROUGH CHINA

SUNRISE WITH SEAMONSTERS

THE IMPERIAL WAY

RIDING THE IRON ROOSTER

TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH

THE HAPPY ISLES OF OCEANIA

THE PILLARS OF HERCULES

SIR VIDIA’S SHADOW

FRESH AIR FIEND

DARK STAR SAFARI

GHOST TRAIN TO THE EASTERN STAR

THE TAO OF TRAVEL

THE LAST TRAIN TO ZONA VERDE

DEEP SOUTH

image

On the red clay roads of the African bush among poor and overlooked people, I often thought of the poor in America, living in just the same way, precariously, on the red roads of the Deep South, on low farms, poor pelting villages, sheepcotes, and mills—people I knew only from books, as I’d first known Africans—and I felt beckoned home.

The Last Train to Zona Verde:
My Ultimate African Safari
(2013)

In this preposterous, unclassifiable book of my Travels, the thread of the stories and observations does not so much break as become intertwined, and in such a manner that, I am fully aware, much patience is needed to unravel and trace it in such an untangled skein.

— ALMEIDA GARRETT (JOÃO BAPTISTA DA SILVA LEITÃO),
Travels in My Homeland (Viagens na Minha Terra, 1846)

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Part One


FALL: “YOU GOTTA BE GOING THERE TO GET THERE”

The stranger filleth the eye.

— Arab proverb, quoted by Richard Burton,
First Footsteps in East Africa (1856)