Copyright © 2013 by Douglas Hough
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to the publisher, addressed “Attention: Permissions Coordinator,” at the address below.
Wild Cataclysm Press
PO Box 128441
Nashville, TN 37212
www.NowYouKnowNashville.com
Ordering Information: Quantity sales. Special discounts are available on quantity purchases by corporations, associations, hotels, tourist bureaus, conventions, and others. For details, contact the publisher at the address above. Orders by U.S. trade bookstores and wholesalers. Please contact NowYouKnowNashville@gmail.com or visit
www.NowYouKnowNashville.com.
Printed in the United States of America
First Edition
All photographs, unless otherwise noted, are explicit property of Douglas Hough and Wild Cataclysm Press.
Please visit www.NowYouKnowNashville.com
ISBN: 9781619276178
HISTORICAL SPOTS
MUSIC CITY ICONS
MUSIC CITY INFAMY
RANDOM FUN STUFF
FAMOUS HOMES
MUSIC CITY MOVIES
FAMOUS GRAVES
MUSIC CITY FOOD
SONGS
STUDIOS
INDEX
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
To my Mom…
who gave me the passion to read.
With a very special “Thank You” to Judy Harris and Karen Sturgeon, who gave me the chance to write.
So you think you know Nashville, huh?
Or maybe you want to know Nashville. Either way, you’ve come to a very unique place in your search for some pretty darn cool things about Nashville! ‘Cuz this book is all about the “places” – the exact spots and locations where history took place and songs were written as Music City evolved. What you are holding is the result of a year’s worth of researching, traveling, photographing, and discovering one of the greatest and culturally rich cities in the world, Nashville, Tennessee. As a touring musician, my absolute favorite part of traveling is finding out “What happened here?” in any given city…what are the sites, the movie locations, the infamy, the food, the history. I’ve tracked down hundreds of sites from the Top Gun barbeque in San Diego to Stephen King’s “IT” standpipe in Bangor, ME…the cabin from “Evil Dead” in Tennessee to the actual rock in Blue John Canyon in Utah where Aron Ralston was trapped before cutting off his own arm. I simply just love Pop Culture and “where” things happen!
That passion, along with hearing so many underground stories about Nashville, got me wondering what kind of reference there was for Nashville sites. Turns out: not a whole lot. There seemed to be a few books and blogs here and there but nothing that definitively covered what I found fascinating about Nashville. So I set out on a local journey of discovery, mainly to satisfy my own curiosity and craving, but also because I truly believe that so much of this history needs to be on paper, instead of discarded as “worthless information” in corners of the memories of those who were there.
Now, if anyone would’ve foretold me of the doors that I would enter, the rooms I would stand in, the people that I would encounter…the forgotten history that I would discover on this journey, I would have been in disbelief. I really did not think there would be that much! The enthusiasm that I received from so many people over what I was trying to do was completely unexpected and I cannot thank those people enough for that. When I started spreading the word to a few friends, all of a sudden I found myself being driven up and down Music Row by the great Jerry Kennedy, “checking crops” with Jerry Bradley, exploring “ground zero” at the Quonset Hut, standing in Garth’ s vocal booth at Jack’ s Tracks, hanging with the ghosts in Marty Robbins’ attic office, bushwhacking like Timothy Demonbreun through Shelby Bottoms Park, and simply getting introduced to some of the greatest songwriters and producers that have ever worked in this town. It was a truly humbling and surreal experience that I am grateful for.
Now here are the old-fashioned disclaimers: What you will find in this book is strictly for entertainment value. These are the “best of their knowledge” recollections from some of the folks who were there. Sometimes the story is a little fuzzy (as one interviewee stated, “I’m not sure – I was drunk a lot back then…”), sometimes it’ s crystal clear. The research has been confirmed and verified to the best of all of our abilities but there might be a fact or two along the way that is simply the way that person remembers it but not necessarily the way somebody else remembers it. And there’ s nothing wrong with that. As they say in songwriting, “Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.” But I can assure you that the locations themselves are indeed factual, since they are the overall point of this book.
I should also point out that, much like William Goldman’ s The Princess Bride, this is the “good parts version” of Nashville history. Each entry is only a brief summary of the actual history that is behind each event. There are far more in-depth looks at many of the subjects in this book so please pick up those books as well for a much more detailed experience of anything that piques your interest.
I also know that a good many Nashvillians, upon browsing this volume, will wonder incredulously why their knowledge and information was not collected. To them I say, bring it on! We’ re just getting started here and I d absolutely love to know what you know – that is why there are 2nd, 3rd, 4th editions in the book world. Simply email your info at NowYouKnowNashville@gmail.com and we’ ll talk. The wonderful thing about history is that it s always being made. There are so many more sites to find and so much more Nashville pop culture to document. Thank you for reading this book and I hope you enjoy the ride!
So you think you know Nashville? Well, let’ s find out…
∼Mason Douglas March 25,2012 – Sept 5,2013
“Here is the extensive country; we shall find no better.”
∼James Robertson, 1780, as recorded by John Haywood
Nashville is steeped in a unique history that has shaped not only itself but many other parts of the state, the country, and the world. If Timothy Demonbreun had not seen a herd of buffalo on the site of modern-day downtown…if the Union hadn’t solidified it’s momentum of the Civil War in the Battle of Nashville…if Owen and Harold Bradley had not started churning out hits in their little aluminum Quonset hut in a non-descript residential neighborhood…well, needless to say, Nashville and it’s place in the world of Country music would look a whole lot different today. Here are a few sites that can be credited to giving Nashville its notable history.
220 Capitol Blvd
2510 Franklin Road
220 Capitol Blvd housed the earliest incarnation of the publishing powerhouse, Acuff-Rose. These are the rooms where the Nashville publishing industry essentially started and grew to unimaginable success as Roy Acuff and Hank Williams’ hits kept coming.
Acuff-Rose eventually outgrew this room and moved to a much bigger office complex at 2510 Franklin Road, which housed multiple publishing companies, a state-of-the-art recording studio, and Hickory Records. Over the years, Acuff-Rose has held the catalogs of Williams, Lefty Frizzell, Roy Orbison, Felice and Boudleaux Bryant, The Everly Brothers, Mickey Newbury, and literally countless others. Acuff-Rose has long since been absorbed into the Music Row-based Sony/ATV Publishing but it’s catalog of songs still dominates the publishing world and this landmark still stands.
2500 West End Ave
This land previously known as Cockrill Springs was once the farmland belonging to Ann Robertson Johnson Cockrill, the wife of John Cockrill and the sister of General James Robertson. It was here that she organized the first schooling for pioneer children, thus becoming Tennessee’s first schoolteacher and even Nashville’s first Sunday school teacher. Ann had been granted the land after heroic efforts in an Indian attack on Fort Watauga; throughout the years, the grounds have been the state fairgrounds, a racetrack, a public park, and perhaps most notably, the site of the 1897 Tennessee Centennial and International Exposition, which brought about a number of exhibits like a pyramid and the well-known replica of the Parthenon.
1200 Forrest Park Dr.
www.Cheekwood.org
Built in 1932 and designed by New York architect Bryant Fleming, this mansion was the private home of Leslie Cheek, and his wife, Mabel. Leslie and Mabel had wisely invested in a company Leslie’s cousin, Joel Cheek, had started. Joel was blending and marketing his own coffee, which was named after the most famous hotel in Nashville…the Maxwell House.
When General Foods (then Postum) bought the coffee company from the Cheeks for $40 million, Leslie and Mabel commissioned Fleming to design and build the house and grounds that you see today. In 1960, the property and mansion were opened as an art museum and botanical gardens, funded and managed by a number of civic groups such as the Horticulture Society of Middle Tennessee and the Exchange Club of Nashville. Cheekwood famously features the largest collection of Worcester porcelain in America.
Paid tours are offered Tuesday through Sunday.
The Battle of Nashville was one of the most decisive of what some Nashvillians call the “War of Northern Aggression”: the Civil War. It was the last stand of the Confederacy and their final chance to retake the strategically imperative city from Union occupiers. Confederate General John Bell Hood had moved his army north from Atlanta, where he had recently suffered a devastating loss to Sherman, and hoped to control Nashville, restock his supplies and move northward to further split the Union. Things did not go quite as planned for General Hood and he was driven back by Union General George Thomas and defeated over the two days of December 15 and 16, 1864.
You can follow the fascinating Civil War Trail throughout nearby middle Tennessee and see incredible history in the Battlefields: the Stones River National Battlefield, the Spring Hill Battlefield, the Franklin Battlefield. All are a short drive from downtown Nashville and offer a rich insight into Middle Tennessee’s importance in the Civil War.
Very near downtown, though, are several key points of the Battle Of Nashville that are worth taking a look at.
1808 Woodmont Boulevard
Inscribed: Trenches about 20 feet north of this point held by Loring’s Division, were the center of the Confederate main line before the Battle of Nashville. On December 15, 1864, Redoubt No. 1, a key artillery salient 200 yards NW, fired on Federal forces until overrun by General Wood’s troops late in the day, when Confederates retreated toward Granny White Pike. ∼ 1992 by The Historical Commission of Metropolitan Nashville and Davidson County. Marker No. 89.
4619 Benton Smith Road
Inscribed: On this hill was fought the decisive encounter of the Battle of Nashville December 16, 1864. At 4:15 p.m. a Federal assault at the angle on top of the hill broke the Confederate line. Col. W M. Shy, 20th Term. Inf., was killed and Gen. T B. Smith was captured. The Confederates retreated over the Overton Hills to the Franklin Pike. ∼1967 by The Historical Commission of Metropolitan Nashville and Davidson County. Marker No. 5
approx 792 Harding Place, at intersection of Peach Orchard Dr.
Inscribed: On Dec. 16,1864, Gen. S.D. Lee’s Corps, Army Of Tennessee, held this right flank of Hood’s defense line which ran south along the crest of this ridge. Violent artillery fire and infantry attacks by the corps of Wood and Steedman failed to dislodge the defenders who withdrew only after the collapse of the Confederate left and center in late afternoon. ∼1970 The Historical Commission of Metropolitan Nashville and Davidson County No. 37
approx 823 Tyne Blvd.
Inscribed: After the withdrawal from the main Confederate line at Peach Orchard Hill, Lt. Gen. Stephen D. Lee formed a battle line across Franklin Pike 400 yards east of here with 200 men from the remnants of Brig. Gen. Henry Clayton’s division and two cannons from the Eufaula Light Artillery. This last line of defense halted the Federal pursuit for the night as the Confederate army retreated through the hills to the southwest. ∼2008 by The Historical Commission of Metropolitan Nashville and Davidson County. Marker No. 134
Granny White Pike and Battlefield Dr.
Located in the heart of the land where the Battle of Nashville took place, this statue was designed by Giuseppe Moretti, erected in 1926, and pays tribute to both Union and Confederate soldiers.
1345 Carnton Ln.
Franklin, TN
McGavock Confederate Cemetery is the largest private cemetery dedicated to 1,481 Confederate soldiers that died in the Battle Of Franklin.
1101 Lebanon Pike
One of the oldest cemeteries in middle Tennessee, Mount Olivet Cemetery is a visual spectacle as well as the final resting place for many who have made their mark on Nashville history. The centralized Confederate Circle holds the remains of nearly 1500 Confederate soldiers from the Civil War, while the rest of the memorial garden is the burial site for names like:
Thomas Ryman
Vern Gosdin
Fred Rose
David Lipscomb
Benjamin Franklin Cheatham
(Civil War Confederate Major General)
Cornelia Clark Fort (aviation pioneer)
Randall McGavock (Confederate Army Officer)
John Overton
Hattie “Tootsie” Ross (of “Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge” fame)
The cemetery is open daily and admission is free.
1420 Gallatin Pike South, Madison TN
This site was chosen by General George H. Thomas, a Union General who stated “no one could come to Nashville from the north and not be reminded of the sacrifices that had been made for the preservation of the Union” in regards to its location on the main railroad line between Louisville and Nashville. Today, over 33,000 veterans, their spouses, and dependants are laid to rest here, 4,000 of whose identities are unknown.
The cemetery is open daily from dawn until dusk and has an Administration office with information available from 8:00 to 4:30, Monday through Friday.
Kedron Road, Spring Hill, TN
One of the most controversial “battles” in the Civil War took place at what is today known as the Spring Hill Battlefield…although there was hardly any battling at all and primarily served as the precursor to the Battle of Franklin.
Lt. Gen. John Bell Hood’s Confederate “Army of Tennessee” was chasing Major Gen. John M. Schofield’s Union armies retreat from Columbia in hopes of denying their return back to Nashville. Despite Hood’s advantageous position ahead of Schofield, the Union army was able to slip past Hood in the night while he and his men…slept.
3501 Old Nashville Hwy. Murfreesboro, TN
www.nps.gov/stri
The Battle of Stones River claims the highest percentage of casualties of any Civil War battle. Developed at the urging of President Lincoln who badly needed a victory to bolster support for his Emancipation Proclamation, it was a ferocious fight of which the Union ultimately claimed victory due to the Confederates retreat. Any clear victor was technically inconclusive as the battle claimed 24,645 casualties (killed and wounded) over a 3-day campaign, the highest percentage of any Civil War battle.
Today, the battlefield is a National Park, centered around the land at the heart of the battle but still a fragment of the actual site. Numerous monuments mark the sites of the battle, such as Hazen Brigade Monument, the oldest intact Civil War memorial, which commemorates the Union men that did not retreat during attacks on Hell’s Half Acre. The National Cemetery is the final resting place of 6,100 Union soldiers, 2,500 of them unknown. A driving tour takes visitors near a few of these sites while an interactive walking trail guides them further into the field of battle. Nearby Murfreesboro offers further history as well.
2417 Jefferson St and 1-40
If one were to take eastbound 1-40 exit onto Jefferson Street, one would drive through the phantom front doors of the once great Club Del Morocco. Jefferson Street hosted a number of smoky clubs and intimate venues where it was not unusual to see Little Richard, Nat King Cole, Duke Ellington, and Ella Fitzgerald perform. The famous Blue Room at the Club Del Morocco had perhaps the most energy, as word spread quickly about their house band, the King Kasuals, and their guitarist “Marbles”. His mama knew him as “Jimmy” but the world knew him better as Jimi Hendrix.
The insertion of the interstate system rerouted businesses around Jefferson Street, spelling the end of the Del Morocco along with over 125 businesses.
Richland Creek Greenway – off of White Bridge Pike, 1/3 of a mile west of Harding Pike
The deadliest rail accident in U.S. history occurred at Dutchman’s Curve, west of downtown Nashville on July 9, 1918, killing 101 people and injuring 171 others.
At 7:15 that morning, the No. 4 train, traveling from Nashville to Memphis, failed to wait for the No. 1 train, en route from Memphis to Nashville, and the two NC&StL railway trains collided at nearly 60 miles per hour. Miscommunication and procedure errors resulted in the two trains sharing a 10-mile long single stretch of track, culminating in a crash that could be heard over 2 miles away. Tragically ironic, this was to be the engineer of the No. 4 trains final run before retirement.
The wreck site is still accessible via the Richland Creek Greenway, just off of White Bridge Road. A wayside offers a brief history of the event and also showcases a few artifacts along with the existing abutments from the original stretch of track.
Oldham St behind the old Seagraves Planning Mill (214 N. 1st St) now East Park
Arguably the most disastrous, if not the most famous, fire in Nashville history happened on March 22, 1916 at this spot. The cause of the fire is unknown – some suspect the tenant of the building, Seagraves and Company Planning Mill, while others suspect children running amuck - but what is known is that it destroyed 648 structures over 32 blocks across nearly 2.5 miles of East Nashville. Against all odds, only one life was lost. No traces can be found today except for East Park, built over the ruins on Woodland St.
2305 Hampton Ave
Inscription: E. L. Hampton’s pasture became “Hampton Field” when transient airplanes began landing here during the first World War. About 2,000 feet long from here west, bounded north and south by Golf Club Lane and Woodmont Boulevard, it continued in use as Nashville’s first airfield about five years until the opening of Blackwood Field in 1921. Erected 1970 by The Historical Commission of Metropolitan Nashville and Davidson County. Marker Number 31.
NW corner of Church Street and 4th Ave N., SW corner of the building
Inscription: Across the alley stood the first Masonic Hall in the state, designed by architect Hugh Roland in 1818. Marquis de la Fayette was entertained there in 1825 by Past Grand Master Andrew Jackson. The 17th General Assembly of Tennessee met there in 1827. The structure, much used as a civic center, burned in 1856. The rebuilt hall was used as a hospital supply store by Federal troops during the Civil War. Tennessee Historical Commission. Marker Number 3A 186
On 1st Avenue North 0.1 miles south of Church Street, on the right when traveling north.
Inscription: The original stockade fronted on the river slightly north of here, covering an area of about two acres. In that enclosure, on May 13, 1780, representatives of this and other settlements met and adopted the Cumberland Compact for the government of the new settlement. About 500 yards west, April 2, 1781, settlers, assisted by dogs, drove off the Indians in the Battle of the Bluffs. Tennessee Historical Commission. Marker Number 3A 33
1100 Fort Negley Blvd
Fort Negley, named for General James S. Negley, was a Union outpost built in 1862 that made Nashville the most fortified city in North America at the time. It’s innovative design of bombproof bastions, redans, and triangular parapets made the fort virtually impenetrable. While its cannons fired the first shots of the Battle of Nashville in 1864, another point of interest is that it deteriorated into severe disrepair since the people of Nashville had no desire to commemorate a Union Fort. It was eventually reconstructed and reopened in 2004.
Intersection of 1st Avenue North and Church Street, on the right when traveling north on 1st Avenue North.
While this author would enjoy nothing more than to describe the moment of inception of the great city of Nashville in his own words, none speak it better than the plaque that marks the spot of this great meeting.
Inscription: On Monday, April 24, 1780, two pioneers, James Robertson and John Donelson, shook hands upon the completion of a reunion at the site on which you now stand. Each man, one by land, the other by water, played out in a two-fold plan for a new settlement that grew into present-day Nashville. Robertson, at the head of his mounted band of 226 frontiersmen, traversed the long, circuitous overland route through Kentucky and Tennessee down to the Great Salt Lick. His group arrived on Christmas Day, 1779, about the time that Donelson’s flotilla left Fort Patrick Henry, and at once set about preparing a place for the boatmen, women, and children who were to join them later.
Robertson, as one of the earliest and most resourceful frontiersmen of early Tennessee history, had long realized that the rolling country and rich bottomland of middle Tennessee would be an ideal location for a settlement. Although much warfare and violence were inevitable, it was his ability to deal with the Indians and their mutual respect and admiration for him that made this venture possible. He said, “we are the advance guard; our way is westward across the continent.” But civilization could only begin with the river-borne families that were to come in the spring. In four months these families floated the entire extent of the Tennessee River, then turned north to the Ohio and came up the Cumberland to the Great Salt Lick – a 1000-mile trip unequalled in the annals of American history. This flotilla was headed by the courageous Colonel John Donelson on his flagship Adventure. He triumphed over freezing weather, the treacheries of a river at the highest in its history, pestilence, and savage Indians to reach his April rendezvous. This achievement has immortalized his name, for he managed it so well that no man could have done it better. His responsibilities were great because he had in his charge a large percentage of non-combatants.
In this memorial group each man stands as a representative of the hardy souls he led to fulfill a magnificent destiny. In this historic handshake each brave pioneer finds his place in history. No city should be indifferent to its founding, no people to its history, especially when so full of heroic action and noble deeds as is the history of Nashville. If space were available the name of every signer of the Cumberland Compact should be here; these two men stand witness to their toil and devotion. This statue, commissioned by Mayor Ben West in 1962, was erected here in the fort where they met the flowering spring day of long ago. This statue is intended to keep their memory green and our love for them tender and profound. These men are the trees; we are their fruit. Erected 1962 by Mayor Ben West and the Metro Historical Commission.
Just north of intersection of Old Lascasses Rd and Hazelwood St, on the east side of Old Lascassas Rd. in Murfreesboro, TN.
Inscription: In 1834, the State of TN hired Professor James Hamilton to find its geographic center in order to locate the state capital as near as possible to the center of the state. However, certain circumstances and politics left the capital in Nashville, although Gov. James K. Polk wanted it moved to Murfreesboro. In 1976, 1/2 mile N.E. on Old Lascassas Rd. an obelisk was placed by the Rutherford County Historical Society at the state’s geographic center. Tennessee Historical Commission. Marker Number 3A 166.
Intersection of Granny White Pike and Traveler’s Ridge Dr.
th