“Inspiring and practical, The Domestic Alchemist is a wonderful collection of healing recipes that will benefit every home. If you have any interest at all in natural remedies and a green approach to health and wellbeing, then Pip Waller has written an indispensable resource for you. Highly recommended.”

William Bloom, author of The Endorphin Effect.

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‘Zowie! One of my favourite herbal authors hits a home run again! I didn’t know you could do so many things with herbs. Pip Waller stretches the herbal imagination!’

Matthew Wood, herbalist and author of The Book of Herbal Wisdom

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‘Another wonderful, very useful, and incredibly beautiful book from Pip Waller.’

Stephen Buhner, herbalist, earth poet and award-winning author of The Lost Language of Plants

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‘Pip, a successful and experienced herbalist, has put together a wonderful compendium of her own and her colleagues’ favourite recipes.’

Eliot Cowan, founder of the Blue Deer Center, New York, and author of Plant Spirit Medicine

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‘This is an amazing resource full of recipes for a wide variety of daily living and healing products. Great for our health and the environment! I recommend it to anyone who wants to live well and develop a deeper relationship with the products that they use.’

Michael Vertolli, founder of the Living School of Herbalism, Canada

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‘This book of recipes has many gems, which will delight everyone from experienced professional herbalists to herb-loving beginners. A truly creative and inspirational book.’

Lucy Harmer, author of Shamanic Astrology

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‘Having known Pip for approaching thirty years, her on-going commitment to herbal medicine and health care is as fervent now as it was then. Drawing on her own and colleagues’ knowledge, The Domestic Alchemist offers a practical, encyclopaedic guide on how to make, prepare and use home remedies.’

Steve Kippax, former president of the National Institute of Medical Herbalists

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‘This essential compendium will delight and excite each and every reader, whether they are a herbalist or have a more general interest in the subject. It is an indispensible guide with easy to follow recipes and lovely illustrations. A must-have text for anyone interested in domestic alchemy.’

Dedj Leibbrandt, fellow of the National Institute of Medical Herbalists

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The
DOMESTIC
ALCHEMIST

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— 501 —

Herbal Recipes for Home, Health & Happiness

PIP WALLER

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Leaping Hare Press

Green cleaning meets plant powered medicine cabinet meets all-natural beauty in this extraordinary compendium of herbal recipes.

Herbalist Pip Waller draws from her own extensive recipe file, and those of world-renowned herbalists, to offer 501 plant-based recipes for the whole family to use, including your pets.

There is also advice on growing and sourcing herbs, as well as essential techniques every herbalist needs to know, from making tinctures to tonics and syrups to creams. Add to this a herb directory, introducing you to just some of the stars of Mother Nature, and you’ve all the tools you need to start your own green revolution.

For Krishna, who is “the potency of medicinal herbs, the dearest well-wishing friend, the inexhaustible seed.” BG.9.16.

First published in the UK in 2015 by

Leaping Hare Press

210 High Street, Lewes

East Sussex BN7 2NS, UK

www.leapingharepress.co.uk

Text copyright © Pip Waller 2015

Design and layout copyright © Ivy Press Limited 2015

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage-and-retrieval system, without written permission from the copyright holder.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

PDF ISBN: 978-1-78240-254-1

EPUB ISBN: 978-1-78240-252-7

MOBI ISBN: 978-1-78240-253-4

This book was conceived, designed and produced by

Leaping Hare Press

Creative Director Peter Bridgewater

Publisher Susan Kelly

Commissioning Editor Monica Perdoni

Art Director Wayne Blades

Senior Editor Jayne Ansell

Designer Andrew Milne

Colour origination by Ivy Press Reprographics

Distributed worldwide (except North America) by Thames & Hudson Ltd., 181A High Holborn, London WC1V 7QX,

United Kingdom

2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1

While the publisher and author have made every effort to ensure that the information contained in this book is accurate and presented in good faith, no warranty is provided nor results guaranteed. The publishers and author exclude liability to the fullest extent of the law for any consequence resulting from reliance upon the information contained herein. Readers should always consult a qualified medical practitioner or therapist before undertaking a new diet or health programme.

CONTENTS

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Chapter 1

THE POWER OF PLANTS

Chapter 2

SOURCING HERBS

PICKING HERBS IN THE WILD

GROWING HERBS

Chapter 3

KITCHEN SET-UP

KEY PRESERVATION TECHNIQUES

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK SUCCESSFULLY

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THE RECIPES

HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS

ECO-LAUNDRY PRODUCTS

KEEPING WELL

FIRST-AID PLANT POWER

KITCHEN PHARMACY

FOOD & DRINK

BEAUTY, BALMS & PERSONAL CARE

VARIOUS ODDITIES

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HERB DIRECTORY

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Contributors

Sources & Further Reading

Index

Acknowledgements

Chapter One

The Power of Plants

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HERBAL LORE BELONGS TO US ALL, A GREAT AND LASTING LEGACY. Throughout history and across cultures, plants have been used for food, shelter, clothes and medicine. Plants contain the proteins and other nutrients that all animals need to thrive, so we depend on them for our survival. The soil itself is nourished by living plants, and even when they die they decompose to form earth from which new plants can grow. Plants sustain all life; everything we need can be obtained from plants.

Today, however, the central role plants play in human lives has been almost forgotten in the Western world. After several generations of urbanized living, those in modern industrialized countries are far removed from nature, creating a damaging imbalance and further misuse of our greatest resource. Even most of us living in rural areas no longer regularly cultivate, gather and use the helpful plants that grow all around us.

ALCHEMISTS OF THE NATURAL WORLD

Herbs are the wondrous ‘alchemists’ of the natural world. They take carbon dioxide from the atmosphere for their energy production, and give back the oxygen that we need to breathe; they take nitrogen from the air and use it to make amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Plants build all kinds of chemicals, and they do so in constant relationship to the circumstances in which they find themselves, and in communication with each other. They make medicines – for themselves, for other plants, for the soil and environment around them, and for us.

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NATURAL MEDICINE

Herbal medicine has been the mainstay and root of medicine from earliest times. In some ancient tombs, archaeologists have discovered the remains of plants still known to herbalists for their power to treat conditions such as arthritis, which modern science has detected in the bodies they accompany. Every culture and every land has a rich history of herbal medicine. Even up to the present day, many drugs used in modern medicine come from plant-based sources.

My own interest in herbal medicine grew in the 1980s when both my parents suffered from health problems. At the time, using anything other than conventional medicine was almost unheard of, and any mention of alternative medicine was met with a doubtful ‘Does it actually work?’ My parents were concerned about the implications of medicines our regular doctor was suggesting, though, and decided to approach a herbalist for advice. They began taking herbal remedies routinely and the results were incredible – my father was even able to avoid surgery. I was impressed, and so drawn to the subject that I went on to study herbal medicine at the School of Phytotherapy in Kent, and joined The National Institute of Medical Herbalists.

A NEW PERSPECTIVE

I began to learn about herbalism’s rich heritage, and its success in curing all kinds of problems. During the great cholera epidemic of the nineteenth century, for example, many herbalists in industrial towns became famous for rarely losing a patient; and following the disastrous explosion at Chernobyl, the Soviet nuclear plant, in 1986, it was found that growing comfrey lowered levels of radiation poisoning in the surrounding soil. This knowledge fascinated me, and I continue to be enlightened.

The more I experience and learn about the power of plants, the more baffled I am that herbalism is sometimes still regarded as being paradoxically ‘ineffective’ on the one hand and ‘dangerous’ on the other. I wanted to write a book that would help dispel these myths and encourage readers to start their own lifelong journey of discovery into herbalism.

HARMONY & HAPPINESS

‘Wood warms you three times – first when you gather it, second when you chop it, and third when you burn it.’

Similarly, making your own plant-based recipes for home and health provides three sources of happiness and relaxation:

First, being outside in nature gathering plants or tending pot herbs on your windowsill, drying and preparing those you have grown, even enjoying measuring out dried herbs and oils bought in for potion making; all connect us to nature which brings harmony and balance into our lives. In fact, feeling your inherent connection to the natural world will bring inestimable happiness.

Second, pottering around in your kitchen laboratory is great fun. You will embark on an empowering journey of exploration as you discover herbs and concoct unique recipes for your home, health and happiness.

Third, when you use the magical elixir you have made, or share it with a friend, you will feel a tremendous sense of satisfaction.

In short, plants contribute to our happiness and well-being in so many different ways; their inherent usefulness isn’t the only joy they bring.

CONNECTING WITH THE NATURAL WORLD

This is a book for anyone with an interest in using plants in the home – for herbalists and kitchen herbalists, for conservationists, for anyone with even a passing interest in herbs. It’s a book for those looking to live a more natural life, to welcome the spirit and usefulness of the plant world into their lives and to connect with the natural world – whether you live in a semi-rural location (as I do) or a city apartment.

The 501 recipes in this book have been gathered by myself over many years as a herbalist, and include contributions from experts across the United States, Canada, the UK and Europe. They range from teas to meads, from toothpastes to face masks, from laundry detergent to air freshener. Some are very simple, requiring almost no equipment; others are complex, such as cream blending, soap making or distilling aromatic waters. My hope is that as your confidence grows, you will begin to experiment and create your own variations. The next few pages of this book are dedicated to showing you all that you need to start your plant-based preparations at home. They include equipment that you will require, information on sourcing and storing herbs and some key techniques for preserving herbs.

Plants are truly life-enhancing, and herbalism, and the love and appreciation of nature that it fosters, is for everyone. I hope this book helps to lead you on a rich journey of discovery.

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Chapter Two

Sourcing Herbs

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SOURCING HERBS NEEDS A LITTLE THOUGHT. Whether you choose to pick herbs in the wild, grow your own or buy them in, you will need a certain amount of background knowledge. The following pages are dedicated to providing a few guidelines, and the Herb Directory (see here) can also be used as a starting point to help identify and source plants.

Even if you begin by buying in all your ingredients, I hope that as your confidence grows you will be inspired to take a step further and discover living plants in nature. Native wisdom from all over the world states that local herbs are many times more effective than those grown at a distance. It is known that plants adapt their chemistry to their environment.

The feeling of connection that a human can have with the plant world is irreplaceable in its health-giving and balancing propensity. When you get to know living plants, you will begin to see friends everywhere you go.

PICKING HERBS IN THE WILD

Foraging, or wildcrafting, is increasingly popular, and you need not live in the woods to do it. It’s amazing how many useful herbs grow in the nooks and crannies of a city. When gathering from the wild, there are a few important considerations.

Firstly, treat the environment with respect and don’t over-forage. A good guideline is to always take a little under half of what is there – and if the plant is endangered, don’t take any at all. If you are gathering the root of a plant, or a whole plant (as opposed to just some flowers, leaves, stems or bark), then plant some seeds or a new plant. With some plants, you can divide the roots and replant half again.

Secondly, check for contamination. In farming areas, avoid land that has been crop sprayed, especially very recently. In cities, find out the previous use of waste land, making sure it wasn’t used for toxic chemical production, dumping or such like. It’s also important to take care that you are not trespassing on private land, and to check out local laws about gathering plants.

Plant identification is an invaluable skill, and there are excellent books with clear photographs to help the lone learner. If you take this route, you must be extremely careful not to use the wrong plant: if you’re not sure, leave it be. While few plants are seriously poisonous, some can harm and even kill you if taken by mistake. There are useful resources online about foraging; I have included some at the back of this book.

Before I pick, I follow the native tradition of asking the plant’s permission in my heart (respecting a ‘no’ if I feel I hear one), and offering gratitude and something in return. In America, the traditional offering is tobacco; in Europe, it is oats or barley. Even if this seems strange to you, I encourage you to try it. You may be surprised at the warmth it will bring you. The earth is a living treasury, and the more you recognize its offerings, the richer your life will be.

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GROWING HERBS

Plants, generally, are easy to please – they like enough (but not too much) light, water and food, and the right kind of earth. They also respond to love: talking to your plants and caring for them actually makes them grow more abundantly. This attitude can be even more important than the quality of the earth in which they are grown, as shown by the famous eco-community of Findhorn, near Forres in Scotland, who have grown impossibly enormous vegetables on soil that is little more than earth-covered rock.

You can grow some herbs anywhere. They are ideal for urban settings and don’t require a lot of space; many thrive in a windowbox or containers as well as planted in the ground. A lot of herbs – ‘herbs’ being the general word for describing plants used in medicine, or to give flavour and texture in cooking – are very easy to grow.

Many plants love a bit of attention. The more you pick the flowers of the marigold, for example, the more it will flower. And most plants prefer a sheltered spot and the company of other plants. Check for any individual requirements of the herbs you grow, and grow them simply, using organic or bio methods, for maximum benefit.

Start growing whatever takes your fancy, and whatever you can easily find. You can sow seeds – try marigold (Calendula officinalis), nasturtium and Californian poppy as a few very easy starters. Or buy small plants to start you off, such as oregano or marjoram, or thyme. I grow a stevia plant (a great natural sweetener) on my bathroom windowsill where it keeps coming year after year; I keep cutting the stems to use in recipes, and more grow back. Every couple of years I re-pot it carefully to give it some fresh earth. I tried to grow this plant in the kitchen for a while, but the steaminess in the bathroom seems to suit her more.

Make inquiries locally to see what grows well in your area, and just have a go. Make friends with local gardeners – they will give you tips, and probably some plants to start you off. Try planting things inside or out: if they are happy, continue as you are; if not, try something else! You are likely to be pleasantly occupied and very satisfied with your home-grown results.

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PICKING HERBS

Harvest plants on a fine day, picking leaves and flowers around mid-morning when the dew has dried. Remember to take a small pocketknife. Keep an eye on the plants you want so that you can pick them at their peak. Choose the healthiest plants/parts of plants. If you plan to use them fresh in a recipe, try to pick and use immediately.

DRYING & STORING HERBS

Wash plants if necessary, then remove and compost unhealthy or unnecessary parts. Gather the aerial parts (those above ground) into a bundle and tie up at the bottom of the stems, or put them into a paper bag. Hang the bundle or bag in a warm, well-ventilated place, indoors or out. Herbs take up to several days to dry depending on conditions.

All parts of plants can be spread out in single layers on trays to dry in a warm, well-ventilated place. Use mesh trays or trays lined with fresh tea towels or paper. Turn the plant matter daily to encourage even drying. Roots can be left whole or roughly chopped (it’s easier to cut them fresh). Flowers and leaves are easier to remove from stems when dry. You can also dry plant material in a dehumidifier.

Aim to dry the plant material enough to stop it going mouldy, without taking all the life away. Store your dried plants in paper bags sealed from the air, or in airtight jars, and keep away from direct sunlight. If dried well, herbs will keep with full properties for at least a year. After this, they will not be as beneficial.

Buying In

What cannot be grown or foraged can be bought in, choosing organically grown ingredients as much as possible. Be responsible when buying wildcrafted herbs, and make sure they were properly picked with sustainability in mind. Reputable suppliers of herbs can be found easily online, and you may be lucky and have a good herbal shop near enough to visit. Find a local herbal practitioner and ask his or her advice about local suppliers. This also puts you in touch with a qualified professional to consult when you need to.

When you are buying herbs in a relatively raw state – for example, dried to use in a recipe – you will easily be able to tell the quality by looking, smelling and tasting a little.

Some of the recipes in this book include ingredients you will need to buy in. All of these are readily available.

Chapter Three

Kitchen Set-up

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VERY LITTLE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT IS NEEDED to start creating useful, plant-based preparations at home, but you will want to prepare your working area and acquire a few necessary items before you start to gather your herbs. The basic kit on here lists essential pieces of equipment and explains how these are used. The recipes in this book assume you have this basic kit, noting only additional ‘speciality’ items not on this list.

Before you move on to the recipe section, you will need some knowledge of the key techniques herbalists use to extract and preserve a herb’s wonderful properties. The following pages are dedicated to this, and you will be referred back to this section frequently during the course of the book.

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KEY PRESERVATION TECHNIQUES

A domestic alchemist can extract and preserve the properties he or she needs from plants in various ways. The materials you choose will affect the quality of the final product. Try to choose organically grown ingredients wherever possible, and use raw (unpasteurized) honey and apple cider vinegar for anything taken inside the body. Water used for making any preparation should be of good quality; unless you have access to pure spring water, filtered is best, being both cleaner than average tap water and more environmentally friendly than bottled water.

HERBAL INFUSIONS

Leaves and flowers as well as ground roots and barks can be made into infusions (also called teas or tisanes). These can be prepared with fresh or dried herbs.

Hot Infusions

Unless instructed otherwise, teas in this book are to be made as follows:

Place 1 tsp dried herb material or 2 tsp fresh in a teapot or pan with a lid. Cover with a mug of boiling water and leave with a lid on to infuse or brew for 10 minutes. Strain before use.

If a stronger tea is required, the traditional dose is 25g/1oz dried herb or double the quantity of fresh steeped in 550ml/2N cups water. Some recipes call for these stronger herbal infusions.

Cold Infusions

Cold infusions are made by steeping herbs in cold water for 2–3 hours. They are usually made with fresh flowers and leaves.

Decoctions

Parts of the plant that are tougher (such as roots and barks) need to be boiled in water. This is known as a ‘decoction’, though it can also be called a tea. Decoctions can be made with similar amounts as the teas above, but a little extra water is added to allow for evaporation while simmering. In making decoctions, the plant matter is put into a saucepan with water, covered with a lid, heated and then simmered for 10–15 minutes.

After the infusion or decoction is made, usually (but not always) the liquid is strained off and the solid plant matter discarded (for composting). If the liquid is being used in an eye bath or a cream, it should be strained through a sieve lined with muslin or thin cotton cloth (see here) to ensure absolutely no bits remain.

Infusions and decoctions can be drunk hot or cold, applied externally as lotions or washes and used in the making of other preparations, such as creams. They keep for 3 days in the fridge. If you bottle them hot into sterilized bottles (see here), you can keep the unopened bottles for up to a month.

Aromatic Waters

It is exciting to turn a tea or decoction from an aromatic herb into a ‘water’, which involves distillation. A simple method using an adapted pressure cooker is described with the recipes. Aromatic waters can keep for anywhere between 3 months and 2 years.

BASIC KIT

RACK, STRING, PAPER BAGS, SELECTION OF GLASS JARS AND STORAGE CONTAINERS, LABELS

Freshly picked herbs can be tied together and hung from a rack to dry. When dried, store in paper bags or glass jars with tightly fitting lids, away from direct sunlight.

Jars are also used to store tinctures, vinegars and infused oils; you may want large ones for this purpose – old sweet jars work well. Small jars are useful for storing creams; bottles for liquid preparations. You may also need old shampoo bottles and so forth, plus spray bottles and dropper bottles. Almost everything you make will need a label.

Whatever you use to store your preparations needs to be very clean. It is absolutely essential to sterilize bottles or jars used for storing syrups, glycerine, tinctures, jellies, creams and ointments (see box, here).

COFFEE GRINDER

For grinding dried herbs and roots. Ground herbs are used in infusions, oil blends, chocolates, snuff, scouring powder, medicines and foods.

TEAPOT OR COVERED PAN (OR A TEA INFUSER IF FOR ONE PERSON)

For brewing infusions (herbal teas).

FUNNELS

For pouring and straining. You need both large and small, to fit the necks of storage bottles.

MUSLINS OR THIN COTTON CLOTH

For straining potions. Use squares of muslin, large cotton handkerchiefs or tea towels.

SIEVES AND STRAINERS

Metal sieves, from tea-strainer size upwards, are useful for straining. (A small wine press, of the kind normally used for home brewing, is good for pressing out tinctures, infused oils, etc.)

COOKING IMPLEMENTS

For brewing up mixtures, use pots, pans, heat-resistant stainless steel or silicone spatulas and spoons, and a potato masher.

DOUBLE BOILER/BAIN-MARIE

For heating potions gently, use a stainless steel double boiler or a ‘bain-marie’ – a baking dish or saucepan half-filled with water on the stove top, with heat-resistant bowls containing your potions inside it.

MEASURING EQUIPMENT

A couple of accurate measuring jugs, cups and spoons for measuring ingredients. For medicinal tincture mixtures, use a 100ml measuring cylinder.

DIGITAL SCALES

Some recipes require accurately weighed ingredients.

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Sterilizing

It is very important to sterilize equipment properly before preserving any plant material, as failure to do so will not only lessen the shelf-life of your product but could also potentially cause food poisioning.

Sterilize items immediately before use. Cool jars/bottles first for cold preparations, but always pour hot preparations (jellies, hot oils, syrups etc.) into hot jars or bottles. You can sterilize items in a number of ways:

1 Remove any plastic lids and cook clean glass bottles and jars in the oven (140°C/275°F/Gas Mark 1) for 20–30 minutes.

2 Boil in water for 10 minutes (boil lids separately). Keep bottles and lids covered by water until just before use.

3 Use a microwave or dishwasher – check the manufacturer’s instructions before proceeding.

HERBAL TINCTURES

Plants’ qualities can be extracted and preserved using alcohol. Tinctures, as they are known, were traditionally made by boiling herbs in wine, but are now produced by steeping the herb in a solution of alcohol and water. Herbalists use variable concentrations of alcohol for different plants, from solutions of 15–25 per cent up to 90 per cent alcohol for resins. (These are substances exuded from certain trees, many of which have strong antiseptic and healing properties, such as myrrh.)

Producing tinctures at home usually means using shop-bought alcoholic spirits. Always aim to use organic spirits. The best one is vodka because it has little taste, though any strong spirit will do. Vodka is usually about 40 per cent alcohol.

If you are making a tincture with fresh plant material (called a ‘specific tincture’), the water in the plant will even things out nicely down to a tincture of around 25–30 per cent proof. If you are using dried herbs, though, you may want to add 85ml/1/3 cup water to dilute each 200ml/just over 3/4 cup alcohol. Alternatively, dilute with an infusion or decoction of the herb, which gives you a combination of tea and tincture in one remedy.

Make tinctures by covering plant material with between two and five times the amount of alcohol solution in a large jar with a well-fitting lid. It is best to use weights for the amount of herb used. A general guide could be 200g/7oz dried herb (300g/101/2oz fresh) to each 1 litre/1 quart alcohol solution.

Leave to stand in a cool, dark place for at least 3 weeks, turning upside down or shaking the jar once a day. (Many traditions encourage talking or singing to the plants as you do this.) After 3–8 weeks, strain the liquid through a sieve or funnel lined with thin cloth. Pull the edges of the cloth up and around the macerated herbs, then twist, wring and press it to extract all of the liquid. Store in a clean bottle.

Fluid extracts are tinctures made with equal amounts of plant material to alcohol. They can be made by double infusing (see here).

Tinctures are used in creams, lotions and liniments, or taken internally. Even a small dose of tincture is effective.

Some herbalists work entirely with drop doses, and some herbs are only taken in drop doses (e.g. 5–20 drops, 1–3 times daily); always use drop doses for children. Many herbalists use a standard adult dose of 5ml/1 tsp mixed in 30ml/2 tbsp hot or cold water, taken once a day for a tonic or preventative or 3 times a day for chronic ailments. For acute conditions, 5–10ml/1–2 tsp can be taken 3–6 times daily.

Tinctures are often mixed together in blends; there are many recipes for blends in this book. You can either buy in the tinctures to make them or produce your own, using the guidelines above. For these blends, herbalists tend to use only millilitres (ml) as measurements, as this is the easiest and best way. You can make them with teaspoon measures (1 tsp = 5ml, 1 tbsp = 15ml), but it is quite fiddly. If you are regularly making these mixtures, I suggest you buy a 100ml plastic measuring cylinder (they cost about £1.50).

Not everyone can tolerate, or wishes to take, alcohol, in which case tinctures can be made with the same quantities of glycerine.

Many leading herbalists tailor-make tinctures each time, rather than using standard amounts; as the American herbalist Matthew Wood, author of The Book of Herbal Wisdom (1997), explains: ‘I look for the distinctive taste of every plant in the extract. Therefore, I make the tincture to the “right taste” … I prefer to think of tinctures and other preparations by analogy to wine, not to pharmaceutical drugs.’

Tinctures can also be made into delicious alcoholic beverages that are pleasant to drink and have health-giving properties in small doses. These can be made with wine, mead (my personal favourite) or with any spirit: gin (sloe gin is the famous one), brandy, vodka, rum, whisky, if you like it, or the local home-distilled schnapps. Usually, a little honey or sugar is added while the tincture is steeping, otherwise the method is the same.

Kept in a cool place away from the sun, a well-made tincture will keep for at least 2 years, some many more.

HERBAL VINEGARS

Vinegars are a useful medium for extracting and preserving herbs; they are used in foods, taken as supplements or medicines and used in many home cleaning products and hair and skin tonics.

Vinegar, especially raw (unpasteurized) organic apple cider vinegar, is good for you inside and out. Taken internally, it can encourage a healthy pH balance, reduce inflammation, boost immunity and regularize metabolism. Taken with food, it enables you to absorb minerals better. Externally, it can bring bruises to the surface, cool and reduce swellings, and benefit the hair and skin.

Herbal vinegars are made like tinctures. Steep the herb in 2–3 times the amount of vinegar. Leave for 2–4 weeks in a cool, dark place, then strain through cloth. As medicines, the dose is the same as for tinctures (see here). Vinegars can keep for at least 2 years.

COMPRESS & POULTICE

Vinegars, tinctures and teas can be used to make a compress. Soak a cloth in the herb liquid, lay it, heated or cold, against the skin and secure with a suitable bandage. It will help to soothe aches and pains, sore throats, headaches and skin conditions.

Fresh plant material can be used to make poultices – mashed or crushed herbs applied to the body alone. Poultices can stay in place for 2–3 days, though many choose to replace them daily.

OXYMELS

An oxymel is a tasty remedy that combines the healing properties of a herbal vinegar with honey – itself a miraculous substance, known to be antibiotic and encouraging to the immune system. Oxymels are made by gently warming a herbal vinegar with an equal amount of honey until the honey is dissolved. In sterile bottles (see here), oxymels keep for 2 years.

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INFUSED OILS

Infused oils, made in the same way as tinctures and vinegars, can be used alone or in ointments, creams, liniments and lotions.

To make, combine 1 part herb with 2–3 parts vegetable oil, then leave for 4–8 weeks to infuse. Note that infused oils are mostly made in the shade, as vegetable oils go off, but some need sunlight to work properly. The recipes in this book will say if sun is required. Once infused, strain and press through cloth, as described for tinctures (see here).

You can make an infused oil more quickly by gently heating the herb in the oil, usually in a double boiler or ‘bain-marie’ (see here), for 2–4 hours.

Many vegetable oils can be used to make a herbal infused oil. The most commonly used include olive, almond, sunflower, coconut, safflower, rapeseed, grapeseed, sesame and jojoba. The base oils all have medicinal properties of their own, and I recommend researching which oil will best offer what you require. Always use the best organically grown, cold-pressed oil that you can afford. Olive oil infusions can keep for up to a year before they start to smell off, and coconut infusions can keep for 2 years, but most others will go off in a few months.

Sometimes a ‘double infusion’ is made to obtain a higher-strength product. In such cases, the infused oil is made and then used to infuse a fresh quantity of plant material. (This can also be done with tinctures, vinegars and all water-based preparations.)

An infused oil can be made into a salve, balm or ointment by addition of an emulsifier such as beeswax. The more wax you use, the harder the ointment becomes. For a soft salve, 8–10 per cent wax to oil is used.

LINIMENTS

Liniments are warming, stimulating rubs for aches and pains. They rub in very easily and are lighter than an oil, so are useful for covering large areas. Liniments are made by mixing an infused oil and a tincture or vinegar. The two will naturally separate in the bottle, so they need to be shaken before each use. How long a liniment keeps for will depend upon the base oil (e.g. olive oil, almond oil) you’re using.

CREAMS

Creams can be quite difficult to make successfully. They mix oil and water components, which require an emulsifier. The purist natural cream maker will use beeswax and a serious amount of whisking instead of a manufactured emulsifier.

To make creams the old-fashioned way, heat the oil and water components separately to a similar temperature using a double boiler or bain-marie (see here); in a double boiler you can heat the water part in the bottom and the oil in the top. Then pour the water part very slowly into the oil part, whisking furiously. Once the oil and water are mixed, the cream is usually quickly cooled by placing the mixing bowl into a cold bath (a pan of cold water). Usually, you continue to whisk while cooling, and until the cream is formed, then put into sterilized jars.

Using a bought-in emulsifying wax makes cream making a simpler process. This is a substance used in cosmetic manufacturing; you can buy it made from pure vegetable sources, but as it is a ‘man-made’ ingredient purists tend to spurn it.

How long creams keep for varies greatly. Those made with long-lasting coconut oil, for example, could keep for a year; with some other oils, creams may only last for 1–2 months, unless a preservative is added.

SOAPS

Soap basically consists of vegetable oils that have been saponified (turned into soap) with a strong alkaloid, known as lye. Soap making is easy to pull off successfully; however, it involves a lot of steps and some substances that need handling and measuring very carefully. For this reason, ingredients for soaps are weighed, and you’ll need digital scales to make them.

Solid soap is made via a ‘cold process’ using sodium hydroxide, which involves a lot of stirring and no heat. Liquid soap uses potassium hydroxide in a ‘hot process’, which involves a lot of stirring and the use of a slow cooker to provide heat. Herbs and essential oils are then added after the oils and lye have been mixed. Soaps keep for years, though they will lose their smell over time as the essential oils evaporate.

SYRUPS, HONEYS & SWEETS

Sugar and honey can be used in various ways to preserve plants. Both can be used to make syrups that are soothing and nourishing, particularly for the throat and chest, and are good for preserving vitamin C.

A simple syrup is made by boiling a 65 per cent sugar and water solution (i.e. one that contains twice the quantity of sugar to liquid) for 3–5 minutes, or by first making a strong infusion or decoction and then boiling this with the sugar.

When making a syrup with raw honey, do not boil, as this destroys its healthful enzymes. Just add an equal amount of honey to a strong herbal decoction or infusion and then heat the mixture gently to dissolve. Infused honeys can also be made simply by mixing the honey and the herbs and leaving to infuse for a few weeks.

Store the syrup in sterilized bottles (see here), first putting the lids on loosely, then tightening when cold. 65 per cent sugar syrups keep very well. You can also make a 40–50 per cent syrup that will keep fairly well unopened if it is thoroughly sterilized. Syrups tend to go off quickly once opened, so store your syrup in several smaller bottles rather than one large bottle to help improve its shelf-life.

Syrups can also be sterilized again once bottled, to preserve them further. Set the lids on loosely, then place the bottles on layers of paper in a pan (the water should reach three-quarters of the way up the bottles’ sides). Simmer the water for 10 minutes, then immediately remove and tighten up the lids.

Sweets are made from a 65 per cent syrup that has been boiled for a long time. Sometimes tinctures and essential oils may be added in at the end. Some recipes use half sugar, half golden syrup.

Boil the syrup for 20–30 minutes to evaporate the water, leaving more and more sugar in the mix. This then goes through several stages. The ‘hard-ball’ stage, which is the minimum needed for sweets, occurs after this 20–30 minutes, so start testing after 15 minutes. Drop a little of the mix into cold water and watch.

At ‘hard-ball’ stage, the mixture makes a ball shape; it keep its shape but feels sticky to the touch. The next stage, known as the ‘soft-crack’ stage, can occur minutes later. The mixture now solidifies into threads that are flexible to the touch and will bend a little before breaking. The third stage, known as the ‘hard-crack’ stage, occurs minutes after this. At this point the threads break immediately. As the three stages occur in very quick succession, I recommend testing your mixture every few minutes after you reach the ‘hard-ball’ stage.

Anywhere between ‘hard-ball’ and ‘hard-crack’ stage works for herbal sweets; after that you are in burning territory! As the ‘hard-ball’ stage is sufficient, pour your mix on to a lightly oiled baking tray when you reach this point, scoring both ways to make small tablet shapes as it cools. Alternatively, pour into small moulds and leave to set. If adding essential oils, do this just before pouring out. If adding honey to the mixture, I like to boil it a bit longer until ‘hard-crack’ stage is reached. Then add the honey just before pouring it out. When the contents are cold, they can be turned out and broken into pieces as necessary.

Keep the sweets in a sealed container in a cool place with some icing sugar, cornflour or ground slippery elm to stop them sticking together. Stored this way, they will last well for 3–4 weeks and up to 6 weeks.

Essential Oils

Essential oils are a valuable addition to many recipes. These are generally bought in, as they are extracted by a complex distillation process; they contain potent properties from the plant, and are used in small quantities. They mix easily in fixed oils, but tend to float on top if mixed in a water preparation, unless emulsified in some way. Mixing the oils with a little vegetable glycerine first can help. Essential oils are volatile and are lost by heating, so are added at the end of any recipes using heat. Some will strip paint or eat into rubber, so if you are experimenting with recipes, bear this in mind and be cautious.

LABELLING & STORING

When you have finished making a product, be sure to label it with what it is and the date made; otherwise you will end up with a shelf full of lovely potions and lotions that you have no idea what to do with!

Unless the recipe says otherwise, store all products in a cool, dark place in an appropriate vessel – a sterilized bottle or jar with a tight-fitting lid, or an airtight container. This will ensure each product keeps at its best for as long as possible. Each recipe includes a recommended shelf-life; this should be used as a guide, with common sense always prevailing. If a product starts smelling odd, discard it.

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HOW TO USE THIS BOOK SUCCESSFULLY

There is a wide range of recipes in this book – from tincture blends and infusions to soaps and creams. To make them successfully, there is some important information you need to keep in mind.

INGREDIENTS

image Some recipes are made from fresh herbs, others are bought-in, and some use a mixture. Unless fresh or dried herbs are specified, it should be assumed that you can use either fresh or dried herbs for each recipe. If the amounts differ depending on whether you use fresh or dried, this will be stated.

image Many ingredients lists contain pre-made preparations – tinctures, infusions and so on. Where a specific recipe for these appears in the book, you will be referred to it; otherwise, you will be referred back to the key preservations section (pp.15–22) for the standard technique.

EQUIPMENT & METHOD

image Before you start making anything, gather together the basic equipment (pp.16–17). All the recipes assume you have this equipment to hand; only if you need something less common will it be specified.

image Some recipes are very simple and others quite complex. In the interests of space, the various methods are described in full once only, and you will be referred back to this as required. Always carefully read the recipe, and if necessary, the general information found elsewhere in the book, before beginning.

MEASUREMENTS

image Herbalism isn’t an exact science. Many herbalists do not work with rote amounts, tending to measure by eye to produce the desired result. With this is mind, most recipes – such as food, cleaners and so on – use rough approximations.

image Some recipes, however, require that ingredients be very carefully weighed – this includes many medicines, all soaps (as you’re using caustic substances) and some creams (which can be tricky to make). In such recipes, cup conversions or tablespoon measurements do not provide the necessary accuracy, so they have not been provided and their use is not advised.

image Tablespoon and teaspoon measurements provided in this book are based on the following:

1 tbsp = 15ml

1 tsp = 5ml

1/2 tsp = 2.5ml

I advise using these standard-sized spoons for all recipes that require tablespoon or teaspoon amounts, and for doses.

image Adult doses are provided as standard for all remedies; children take the smaller end of the dose range, or 1/41/2 the adult dose, unless otherwise specified. See here for more details on doses, and see the box on here, ‘Taking Herbal Remedies’.

Taking Herbal Remedies

Herbal remedies can work remarkably well, and sometimes they work fast. Often they are not a quick fix, however, needing instead to be taken over weeks and months to achieve the desired effect. Recipes for medicines depend on empirical, traditional knowledge, some of which (but not all) is backed up by modern scientific research.

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Responsibility for self-prescribing any of the remedies in this book falls solely with the reader.

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If you are pregnant or breast-feeding, have any serious or long-lasting health condition, or if you are already taking medication, it is especially important to first seek the advice of a healthcare professional.

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The Recipes

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HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS

The cleaners in this section are wonderful and effective environmentally friendly alternatives to strong-smelling chemicals. The essential oils leave a fresh clean smell and mildly disinfect the area. Herbs also make perfect room sprays and wonderful potpourri.

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Chamomile & Marjoram Surface Cleaner

The addition of chamomile and marjoram gives this gentle but effective eco-cleaner a beautiful, sweet scent.

INGREDIENTS

image   500ml/2 cups distilled white vinegar

image   2 tsp marjoram flowers and leaves

image   1–2 tsp chamomile flower heads

image   20 drops lavender essential oil

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes 500ml/2 cups.

Keeps up to 2 years.

METHOD

Make an infused vinegar with the herbs (see here). Add the essential oil and decant into a spray bottle (for easy cleaning).

For everyday use, add an equal amount of water to the mixture. Spray on, leave for a few minutes and wipe off.

For really tough jobs, use the cleaner undiluted – gently heating for a few minutes makes it extra strong. Spray dirty surfaces with hot vinegar cleaner and leave for 15 minutes before scrubbing and rinsing.

All-purpose Cleaning Spray

Courtesy of Michael Vertolli

INGREDIENTS

image   200ml/3/4 cup + 5 tsp water, boiled or distilled

image   50ml/3 tbsp + 1 tsp distilled white vinegar

image   1 drop Liquid Castile Soap (see here)

Essential oils:

image   5 drops lavender

image   3 drops pine

image   3 drops spruce or fir

image   1 drop geranium

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes 250ml/1 cup.

Keeps indefinitely.

METHOD

Combine the ingredients in a spray bottle and shake to mix.

Shake well before use. Spray the surface, then wipe clean.

Lemon-fresh Cleaner

INGREDIENTS

image   500ml/2 cups distilled white vinegar

image   1 lemon, sliced

Essential oils:

image   10 drops lemon

image   10 drops orange

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes 500ml/2 cups.

Keeps 1 year or more.

METHOD

Make an infused vinegar with the lemon (see here), then add the essential oils.

Use as for Chamomile & Marjoram Surface Cleaner (see here).

Bug-busting Surface Cleaner

INGREDIENTS

image   500ml/2 cups distilled white vinegar

image   1–2 tsp thyme leaves

image   2 tsp marigold petals

image   20 drops thyme essential oil

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes 500ml/2 cups.

Keeps up to 2 years.

METHOD

Make an infused vinegar with the thyme and marigold (see here), then add the essential oil.

Use as for Chamomile & Marjoram Surface Cleaner (see here).

Anti-bacterial Multi-surface Cleaner

Courtesy of Teri Evans

INGREDIENTS

image   1 tsp borax (see box, here)

image   1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

image   2 tsp lemon juice

image   400ml/12/3 cups hot water

Essential oils:

image   10 drops tea tree

image   5 drops eucalyptus

image   5 drops lavender

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes approx. 400ml/12/3 cups.

Keeps up to 2 months.

METHOD

Put all the ingredients in an empty spray cleaner bottle. Shake well to mix, repeating vigorously before each use.

Rinse surfaces after spraying to remove traces of borax and oils.

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Zesty Washing-up Liquid

INGREDIENTS

image   4 tsp washing soda

image   375ml/11/2 cups boiling water

image   5 tbsp Liquid Castile Soap (see here) or 3/4 of a 250g/9oz bar grated solid castile soap

Essential oils:

image   10 drops lemon or orange

image   10 drops grapefruit

image   10 drops tea tree

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes approx. 425ml/13/4 cups.

Keeps at least 6 months.

METHOD

If using grated soap, stir into the water until dissolved, then slowly stir in the soda. If not, dissolve the washing soda in the water, then add the liquid soap, continuing to stir until dissolved. Leave to cool. When cool, stir in the essential oils and bottle.

Shake well before use.

Tip

IF YOU USE GRATED SOLID SOAP, YOUR HOMEMADE WASHING-UP LIQUID MAY THICKEN IN THE COLD. USING LESS WASHING SODA WILL GIVE A THINNER LIQUID IF YOU LIVE IN COLDER CLIMES. ALWAYS RINSE WELL AFTER WASHING, AS FOR ANY WASHING-UP LIQUID.

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Eco-powered Oven Cleaner with Basil

This is as effective as commercial brands, without the chemicals.

INGREDIENTS

image   120ml/1/2 cup Liquid Castile Soap (see here)

image   250g/11/4 cups bicabonate of soda

image   4 tbsp rosemary vinegar (see here)

image   4 drops basil essential oil (optional)

MAKES & KEEPS

Makes enough for one really thorough clean.

Mix the cleaner up freshly each time you need it.

METHOD

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly in a bowl. Remove the oven shelves and clean separately.

Using a paintbrush, spread your mixture over the entire surface of the oven. Leave it for 6–8 hours or overnight. During this time the mixture will foam up slightly and lift the grime from the oven surface.