List of Recipes

About the Author

Karen Saunders is the author of The Breadmaker Bible, Traditional Breads for Your Breadmaker and Tips for Your Breadmaker, all published by Ebury Press, as well as the small books Allinson Bread, which sold more than 250,000 copies (mainly through Sainsburys), and Allinson Continental Deli Cookbook, which sold more than 125,000. She is a qualified home economist and an expert in breadmaking and works closely with the Allinson Baking Club, developing recipes and offering help and advice to members. Karen lives in Somerset with her husband and two children.

introduction

BREAD HAS COME a long way since the first flat loaves, made from coarse meal and water, were baked on a stone over an open fire. Today, our shops are filled with an endless selection of breads with different tastes and textures. Like most of us, I’ve been overwhelmed with the wonders of continental loaves, of focaccia and pain rustique, calzone and bruschetta, firstly marvelling in their availability at our supermarkets and then rejoicing when I found I could make them equally well at home using my breadmaker.

But what of British bread, I wondered? Where do our traditional loaves sit in the international top ten? I’m afraid that here we’ve become a forgotten nation; and, I admit that, apart from the odd Chelsea Bun and a few others, I’d largely overlooked our native baking myself. Take a moment to consider the phrase ‘traditional British bread’ and what it means to you. I remember my grandfather’s shopping trips from his farm on the Ashdown Forest. I must have been quite young but can still picture his huge wicker shopping basket. Apart from humbugs, inside would always be cheese with rind wrapped in greaseproof paper, some of that lovely rolled butter and a huge cottage loaf. I can picture him skillfully cutting it into slices with the bread knife he would sharpen on the stone that was his front door step. This bread was really something quite special.

I recall too that, as a child living in rural Berkshire, our weekly shopping trip included a visit to the bakers to buy crusty split tin loaves. I cursed them at the time, wishing that I too could have sliced bread like my friends from school instead of sandwiches made from large unwieldy slices topped with a thick dark crust. I don’t remember wishing for packaged bread for very long though: even as children we soon realised our baker’s bread promised both superior taste and texture over the pre-sliced, polythene-wrapped alternatives. Looking back, despite my childish tribulations, I’m so grateful for this unlikely introduction to good quality, locally produced bread.

I can’t remember my first teacake, doughnut or muffin which suggests that these were things I did not sample until much later in life. This makes me wonder how many children today will have eaten a cookie or an American muffin yet never tried Malt Loaf or a Bath Bun? Is this because our tastes are now so international? Maybe. But I also suspect that many recipes have been lost in the generations, squashed under polythene-wrapped mass-produced buns, cakes and breads.

So what of the world of British bread, I wondered. I knew there had to be more to it than tea cakes and English muffins. So I set off on a new journey and discovered that there was, in fact, a forgotten collection of British recipes. In The Breadmaker Bible I showed how easy it was to make bread for every occasion and now I’m taking breadmakers on a new adventure. Our journey takes us all around Britain from Cornwall to the Cairngorms and over the Irish Sea. I’ve baked Bath Buns and Farls, discovered regional diversity in classics like Gingerbread and Oatcakes, and cast my net far and wide adapting recipes not only for traditional loaves, but for teacakes, buns and batters. The breadmaker can save us so much time and effort with this kind of recipe. So, in addition to the cakes and breads you’d expect, this book contains recipes for the yeast batters that make mouthwatering favourites like fritters, crumpets and pancakes to name just a few.

But this book is not a trip along memory lane or an historical account of British baking. It’s a modern adaptation of British classics and a new lifeline for many recipes facing extinction! I’ve given traditional recipes a contemporary twist; sharing with you a quick and crafty new way to make crumpets and how to give a tasty dough casing to the classic pasties and Eccles cakes. I’ve created new recipes, too, with the finest local ingredients that I’ve discovered along the way. The increasing success of farmers’ markets and our willingness to purchase food locally from small producers and hunt out new, interesting ingredients is to be embraced. So, I’ve included recipes that use regional specialities and local ingredients in new contemporary British loaves, giving you the freedom to experiment with specialities from your area. Enjoy breads made with delicacies like Hampshire’s peppery watercress, our native crops of oats and barley, British honey and our famous Scottish whisky, not to mention the loaves I have created using the rich and juicy fruits from our nation’s orchards and, of course, the finest British cheese.

Now it’s true to say that some of the traditional bread recipes would have been baked on a griddle, cooked on a stone or boiled on a range – but with a little modern magic and common sense I’ll show how these recipes can be easily made in today’s kitchen with help, of course, from the breadmaker. The result, I think, is a wonderful marriage of old and new, with recipes perfect for beginners and experienced cooks alike – so open your eyes, plug in your breadmaker and follow my voyage of discovery unravelling the mouthwatering world of British bread.

HOW TO USE YOUR BREADMAKER

USING A BREADMAKER to make bread is, in itself, an education. Whether you’ve made bread previously or you’ve never mixed dough in your life, I can guarantee that using a breadmaker will mean you’ll have to start learning from scratch.

I can’t say strongly enough how important it is to learn the basics well, particularly before you try more advanced breadmaker recipes. Read the instructions and the tips and hints in this book and in your manufacturer’s handbook and try out the basic loaves several times. Listen to your breadmaker as it works, lift the lid and look at the dough during the mixing cycle, feel it as it’s mixing and kneading and you’ll soon learn how to correct any mistakes before it’s too late.

I’d recommend buying a good basic all-round breadmaker cookbook like the companion titles to this one, The Complete Bread Machine Cookbook and The Breadmaker Bible. They will guide you through the stages of breadmaking in a breadmaker, ensuring that you save on disappointments and frustration and get the best from your machine.

There are some golden rules to remember when making any breadmaker recipes and I’ve included the most important ones below.

Measure Carefully

It may sound obvious but this is extremely important. Always use the plastic spoon provided to measure tablespoons and teaspoons and NEVER use domestic spoons as their sizes vary enormously. Whether you choose to measure by cups or by scales, be consistent – never measure some of the ingredients in a cup and others on the scales. As with all recipes choose metric or imperial measures – don’t mix the two. I’m a big fan of electronic kitchen scales as these are a quick and easy way to measure both dry and wet ingredients and are very precise.

Choose the Right Yeast

Despite confusing terminology in many manufacturers’ handbooks, the only yeast to use in a breadmaker is the instant or fast-acting dried yeast (also called easy-bake yeast). This yeast is available in sachets as well as larger packets, which are more convenient if you bake everyday. Follow the storage and use-by information on the packet carefully and don’t try to save partially-used sachets for next time – the yeast will become inactive and your bread will not rise.

The Right Order

Machine manufacturers request that the ingredients are added in a particular order and this is an extremely important piece of advice. Doing this means that the flour acts as a buffer between the yeast and the wet ingredients, ensuring that the yeast does not activate until you are ready to make the loaf. This is especially important when you use the timer and for programmes with a delayed start.

In this book I’ve added the wet ingredients first, then the flour and finally the yeast. Some machines request that the yeast goes in first and the wet ingredients last, in which case you can simply reverse the order in which the ingredients are added to the bucket by reading the list from the bottom to the top.

Choose the Right Programme

Always select the programme stated in the recipe. Be aware that rapid and turbo programmes are not suitable for all recipes.

If your machine does not have a cake programme, you can mix the cake recipes by hand and then choose the ‘bake’ programme for cooking. If you need to select the baking time, consult your manufacturer’s handbook for guidance. I usually find the total quantity of flour is a good indicator of how long the cake will need. Manufacturer’s cake recipes can then be used as a guide.

Test cakes as if you are baking by conventional methods. Insert a skewer into the middle and if it comes out clean, the cake is cooked. Most machines let you adjust the timer and add extra minutes to the baking cycle, so you can run the cycle until your cake is cooked completely.

Create the Right Environment

It may seem strange but where you keep your breadmaker can greatly influence the results of your baking. Keep your machine in a dry and draught-free place at a comfortable room temperature – never outside, or in the garage and never in direct sunlight, or next to the hob or oven. Ensure there is ample space around and above your machine for air to circulate and that the vents are not obstructed. Take care when your machine is baking as the surfaces can get quite hot and steam can puff out of the air vents. Also, you should always be aware that sudden changes in the weather or your central heating can affect the results of your baking. Flour will be naturally drier in the summertime than in the damp winter months and so you may well need to add slightly more liquid. If your central heating is on at a high temperature, you may again need to add more liquid. A sudden heat wave may mean that your bread does not rise as well because high humidity can affect the yeast’s performance.

Look After your Breadmaker

I know it’s tempting, but don’t put your breadmaker’s bucket in the dishwasher as it will damage the paddle mechanism. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning the machine. Never use metal utensils in it as they will scratch the non-stick surface.

If your paddle gets stuck in the bottom of your bread, carefully remove it with a pair of plastic kitchen tongs, taking care not to damage the non-stick surface of the paddle, or your bread. It’s worth noting that most manufacturers sell extra paddles and buckets. (For manufacturers’ details, see here.)

Variety is the Spice of Life

Finally, remember that you are making homemade bread and that every loaf will be slightly different in colour, texture and shape, unlike commercially-made goods. Enjoy the fresh-baked smells, the delicious natural tastes and, of course, the fact that they are completely unique!

BREADMAKING INGREDIENTS

For thousands of years, bread has been made from a mixture of flour, salt and water. The composition of this flour would depend very much on the region. In more temperate climates, where wheat grew freely, the bread was made from this grain. But in harsh landscapes, where hardier crops like oats and rye were more prevalent, dwellers would have made a very different looking loaf.

With the agricultural reforms in the mid-18th century, the work of pioneers like Coke of Norfolk and Jethro Tull meant that far more land was turned over to wheat. Gradually wheat crops took prevalence over the hardier varieties of oats, barley and rye. The availability of wheat flour led to a more refined loaf of bread and this was the beginning of the loaves we all know and love today.

With a wealth of flour and flavouring options available to us, we have everything we need to make an endless variety of loaves. But good basic ingredients are essential for success, so it’s worth recapping on how these can be used to vary the taste and texture of our bread.

Wheat Flours

For the best bread, high-protein flour made from ‘hard’ or ‘strong’ wheat should be used. When you knead dough made from strong flour, the protein from the flour develops into gluten. Gluten is the elastic substance that forms the mesh-like structure which encapsulates the carbon dioxide bubbles given off by the fermenting yeast. It is the gluten structure that allows dough to develop into the light and airy texture of fresh cooked bread.

Common British Bread Flours

STRONG WHITE BREAD FLOUR

The bran and germ are removed from the flour during milling, producing flour which will make light and airy white bread.

VERY STRONG WHITE BREAD FLOUR

This premium white bread flour is blended from the finest hard wheat varieties. These are generally from Canada and North America and they produce a flour super-high in gluten. It can be used whenever a recipe calls for strong white bread flour and will generally help to give a better volume and lighter results. This flour is also particularly useful for giving improved rise and texture to bread made with a blend of flours that are naturally low in gluten like wholemeal, rye and barley.

STRONG WHOLEMEAL FLOUR

Quite simply, wholemeal means that the whole grain (including the germ and bran) has been used to make the flour. In technical terms, wholemeal flour is said to be of 100% extraction and is, consequently, a useful source of B vitamins, calcium, iron and fibre.

However, for breadmaker users it’s not all good news. The bran in wholemeal flour reduces the effectiveness of gluten during baking. So bread made with wholemeal flour will never rise as high as bread made without the germ and bran and will also be much denser than its white equivalent. The presence of bran in the flour also means that the dough will absorb much more liquid, so more water is needed when wholemeal flour is used. If you want the benefits of wholemeal flour, therefore, I’d always recommend using a 50:50 blend for best results (50% strong white, or very strong white flour and 50% strong wholemeal).

WHOLESOME WHITE VERY STRONG BREAD FLOUR

This innovative blend of strong white bread flour and a new strong white wheat wholemeal flour offers the best of both worlds. Used in a breadmaker, it will give a wonderfully light loaf with a creamy coloured interior that contains all the goodness of wholemeal flour.

STRONG BROWN FLOUR

Brown flour differs from wholemeal in that it has had 10% of the grain’s bran removed during milling, i.e. it is of 90% extraction. Brown flour is high in nutrients and will still absorb slightly more liquid than white flour. However, it will produce a noticeably lighter loaf than wholemeal and so, unlike regular wholemeal, it is possible to use 100% strong brown flour and make excellent loaves.

COUNTRY GRAIN STRONG BROWN BREAD FLOUR

This flour is made from strong brown flour enhanced with malted wheat flakes. You may also find that this flour is called malted wheat grain or granary.

SOFT GRAIN STRONG WHITE BREAD FLOUR

This is strong white flour with cracked wheat and rye grains which add fibre to the flour and also give the bread an interesting texture and additional ‘bite’.

RYE FLOUR

Rye has been cultivated in Britain for centuries. It was often sown together with wheat to make a crop known as ‘maslin’ (mixed). Rye was used in many traditional British recipes but as wheat became more prominent later in the 18th century, its use diminished.

Rye actually has a good gluten content but its gluten is of a different nature to that of wheat and it is, unfortunately, far inferior in terms of breadmaking. Rye is, therefore, best used in conjunction with wheat flour. The combination will give a delicious tangy flavour and close texture to the bread.

BARLEY FLOUR

Barley has been used in bread for centuries but it is low in gluten and therefore, on its own, is unsuitable for use in a breadmaker. However, when blended with wheat flours in small quantities it can add an extra earthy dimension to bread. Barley flour is grey-brown in colour and will give a darker crumb to a loaf when mixed with white bread flour.

OATMEAL

As another traditional British grain, oats are used in breadmaking either as a coarse meal or finely ground into flour. When mixed with strong flour in the breadmaker, oats can add an extra dimension to loaves. You’ll see I’ve used the various grades of oatmeal in traditional recipes throughout this book.

RICE FLOUR

Historically, bread made with rice has been held in high esteem, praised for taste, texture and its keeping qualities. Rice was originally used as a bread ingredient to moisten the bread and to make the dough go further, in the same way potatoes were used. Rice was frequently added to recipes in the form of cooked whole grains, a coarse meal or as flour.

CORNMEAL (or MAIZE MEAL)

Cornmeal is a coarsely ground ‘granular’ meal made from maize. It’s extremely useful for adding to breads to vary colour (it gives a rich yellow tone), flavour and texture.

Yeast

I find it fascinating to think that yeast must have been discovered by accident when a mix of meal and water was left out in a warm place for longer than usual and started to ferment. With the resulting loaf being lighter and more appetising, it didn’t take long for fermentation, using naturally occurring air-borne yeast, to become an essential part of breadmaking.

The practice of storing a piece of leaven from the day’s dough and keeping it alive for the next batch soon became the routine. Today, bread can still be made in this traditional way, although commercially manufactured yeast allows us much more convenience.

Quite simply, yeast works by feeding on the sugar from the mix and the starch from the flour. Given the right environment of warmth and moisture it will grow, giving off carbon dioxide and alcohol. When this happens in bread dough, the gas bubbles get caught in the mesh-like gluten structure and expand. This causes the dough to rise until the heat of the oven finally kills off the yeast and the starch in the flour sets, holding the shape of the risen loaf.

When baking traditionally you can judge when dough has risen just enough and you can then bake the dough to kill off the yeast. However, in a breadmaker, the timings of the cycles are strictly regulated. This means that the fermentation must be controlled by adding exactly the right amount of yeast to the recipe and also with the use of salt.

Instant or fast-acting dried yeast makes things as simple as they can get, but I can’t stress too much the importance of accurate measuring. Always use the measure supplied with your machine, and never household cutlery. Be aware, also, that too many sweet ingredients and other ingredients like onions, garlic and alcohol can inhibit the action of the yeast and make your loaves denser.

Do not use fresh yeast in your breadmaker or traditional dried active yeast (sold in tins) as these are both more suited to baking by traditional methods than to breadmaker baking.

Salt

Salt is an essential ingredient for making loaves in a breadmaker as it helps control the action of the yeast. In addition, salt gives bread a well-rounded flavour while improving the keeping qualities of the loaf. Be aware, though, that salt must be used with care. Too much will kill the yeast and too little will mean that the dough rises out of control.

Sugar

Sugar gives the yeast a boost, helping to ensure adequate fermentation within the limits of the machine’s cycle. Sugar can be added in any form including jam, honey, syrup and even fruit concentrates. Be aware, though, that when recipes have many sweet ingredients, the increased amounts of sugar can inhibit the action of the yeast and make a denser loaf.

Liquid

Almost any liquid can be used to bind bread dough. While water is the usual choice, milk, cream, buttermilk or natural yoghurt have all been used traditionally, as well as beer, cold tea, juices and wine. Whatever liquid is used, bear in mind that yeast is heat sensitive and that liquid should be added at the right temperature. Yeast will die if the liquid is too hot or too cold. Most breadmakers will gently heat the dough as it mixes, so don’t worry too much about accurately measuring the temperature with a thermometer to the last degree. Simply ensure your ingredients are at room temperature.

Fat

In our low-fat world it’s often forgotten that you can add fats like butter and oil to bread to enhance its crumb structure, taste and keeping qualities. Butter, and vegetable fat and oils, can be substituted to vary the flavour to suit your taste. But don’t use low fat spreads unless they are designed for baking.