jams The jams in this book range from the classic favourite Strawberry (page 50) to the less conventional Spiced Rhubarb and Apple (page 21) and Blueberry and Vanilla (page 49). Mid- to late summer is traditional jam-making season and the aroma of soft summer fruits, bubbling away in their syrupy juices, is certainly one of the best. Conserves are a type of jam in which larger pieces of fruit are suspended in a sweet syrup. They don’t set as firmly as jams, and their syrupy juices will no doubt run all over the plate of whatever they’re accompanying. Use them more as a fabulous topping for ice cream, sponge cakes or creamy yogurt.

jellies Of all the homemade preserves, it’s the jellies that I find most absorbing to make, possibly due to their gorgeous colours, which range from the palest pastels to deep burgundy reds. Some cooks might be put off making jellies because of the need to strain them for several hours (or overnight if made late in the day), but straining really is so easy if you use the simple method on page 10. Even easier is the fact that there’s so little fruit preparation beforehand; cores, stalks, skins, pips and stones are all thrown in the pan for the initial cooking and only larger fruits need a rough chopping first.

marmalades Marmalades generally require a bit more preparation than other preserves. Cut the shreds as finely or as thickly as you prefer – using a food processor is a quick and easy way of finely chopping the peel if you don’t like a proper ‘shredded’ marmalade. One watchpoint is the consistency of the cooked peel before adding any sugar. A piece of softened peel, lifted from the pan, should be soft and fall apart between your fingers. Once the sugar is added the peel won’t soften any more and the cooked shreds will have a hard, chewy texture.

fruit curds and cheeses A tangy fruit curd is another preserve that can readily be bought but simply doesn’t have the vibrant flavour of a homemade one. Fruit ‘cheeses’ bear no relation to dairy produce but are instead, a preserve made by cooking fresh fruits to a thick, pulpy paste. Sweetened and flavoured with spices, or simply left plain, they make a great addition to the cheeseboard in a similar vane to Membrillo, the Spanish quince cheese served with tapas. Fruit ‘butters’ have a softer consistency than fruit cheeses and are served as you would jam.

chutneys and relishes Chutneys and relishes can be made at any time of year, but the abundant supplies of fruit and vegetables in late summer makes this the most practical time for potting up supplies to take you through the winter. Most chutneys are best left for a couple of weeks before use to let their flavours mingle and mellow and from then on will keep well, and taste good, almost until you’re ready to make the next batch. Relishes are made in a similar way but are not cooked to such a pulpy consistency. Fresh tasting and with a crunchier texture, they have a shorter storage time of up to four months.

pickles Like chutneys, pickles have a high vinegar content, which needs to mellow for several weeks before use or the flavour can be a bit harsh. Vegetable pickles such as Cucumber, Dill and Mustard (page 74) are great with a slice of chunky bread and wedge of cheese, or smoked fish or cold meats. Sweet pickled fruits such as Vanilla Pickled Plums (page 113) or Saffron Pickled Pears (page 114) are lovely, chopped and scattered over salads, their sweet syrupy juices added to dressings and sauces.

sauces, oils, vinegars and seasonings The recipes here are a selection of ideas from savoury sauces to preserved vegetables, mustard and homemade cheese, giving a little taster of the vast scope of preserves that can be made, effortlessly and absorbingly, at home.

mincemeat and fruits in syrup Bottling fruits in syrup is such a great way of extending the relatively short season of some of our favourite fruits, and guarantees a supply of effortless desserts for months ahead. For casual suppers, present the fruits in their jars for spooning over whipped or clotted cream, mascarpone, vanilla ice cream and maybe some dessert biscuits to add crunch and texture. Mincemeats are just about the easiest preserve of all and the two in this book are really special. They store well but should be checked occasionally. If the surface dries out, top up with a dash of liqueur or, if they start to ooze syrup, boil up in a pan, re-pot and store in the fridge.

cordials and drinks There’s such satisfaction in serving homemade cordials, their freshness and purity of flavour vastly superior to most bought ones. The trickiest part is keeping up with nature’s supplies – elderflowers (briefly) in early summer and brambles in the autumn. Think ahead when making alcoholic drinks as they need several months to mellow and mature.