THE BASICS
SKIN
ANTI-AGEING
THE POWER OF MAKE-UP
TOOLS & TECHNIQUES
FOUNDATION
CONCEALERS & POWDERS
EYES
LIPS
CHEEKS
LOOKS
glossary
index
acknowledgements
Catwalk and fashion editorials are meant to inspire and innovate, but very often fashion statements can be taken to extremes – from following whatever the magazines portray, to holding onto looks that are long out of date. Finding a balance between fashion, comfort and personal style is the most logical solution.
Thibault Vabre, an international make-up artist for Clarins, maintains, “If a woman’s make-up is successful, you don’t see it, you see the person”. Learn to make the most of your features and find out what make-up looks compliment you – after all, big noses, full lips, gappy teeth and moles have all been turned into beauty trademarks over the years. Decide what suits you – you are the expert! So whether you’ve never worn make-up at all, whether you are pretty adept at doing your own face or whether you are stuck in a rut, this book will help alleviate any nervousness you might have about make-up application and will provide you with lots of inspiration, tips and ideas to help you attain exciting new looks.
Instead of looking in a mirror and asking “What’s wrong with me?”, use make-up to highlight your uniqueness, not to hide and correct. Just remember to keep it simple – when you try too hard it looks complicated and unnatural. Find your own basic make-up essentials to create a radiant-looking complexion, and experiment with different products and tools to accentuate your best features. Improving your appearance will boost your confidence and self-esteem. Ultimately, it’s not about what rules to follow, but about learning how to adapt the various techniques to best suit your own unique style. Experimentation is fun, and besides, you can always wash it off!
As humans, you come packaged in material that’s light, tough, elastic and waterproof. Your skin protects your body against the world. It also plays a large part in how people respond to you. Depending on the state of your skin, you may be met with snap judgements on your health and sexual attractiveness. So it’s no wonder that a multimillion-dollar industry has grown up around skin sensitivities.
Weighing about 4kg (6.6lb), the skin is the largest organ in the body. It covers roughly 2m2 (6.6 sq ft) and consists of 3 layers. Like no other material, it grows with you, repairs itself and processes sensory information about the environment. It acts as a barrier against pollution, radiation, the elements, harmful micro-organisms and physical trauma.
Smooth, poreless and free from lines, a flawless complexion has long been considered a mark of youthfulness and good looks. No part of our body receives as much attention as our skin; we slather it with creams, conceal it with make-up, and examine every change, line and blemish.
“For some, achieving perfect skin seems impossible, but good skin is achievable. It simply takes work! With a bit of knowledge, your skin will look better – and be healthier – than you ever thought possible ...”
The term ‘skin type’ refers to two things: how much sebum your skin produces, and where this sebum is most heavily produced. But our skin changes – greasy one day and dry the next. It’s under constant attack from internal factors like fluctuating hormones and poor diet, which lead to oiliness and spots, and from external factors like the sun and the wind, which cause premature wrinkles.
Factors such as stress and the changing seasons can also take their toll, making skin look dull, flaky and lifeless. To combat these enemies, skin needs to be properly cared for throughout your life. Examine your skin first thing in the morning to identify your skin type and discover which products to use and which to avoid.
Dry skin
Avoid
• sun exposure, which aggravates the condition; excessive lubrication; and products containing alcohol and fragrance.
Look for
• products containing sealants to prevent moisture loss such as silicone or collagen; daytime protective moisturizers; nourishing and hydrating masks; products containing vitamin E, avocado oil, hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
Oily skin
Avoid
• harsh strippers with a high alcohol content; foundations with a ‘glossy’ or ‘satin finish’; harsh alcohol-based toners; soap and water; oil-based moisturizers; and finally, touching your face too much.
Look for
• ‘oil-free’ foundations and moisturizers; products labelled non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic; antibacterial essential oils such as tea tree and grapefruit; and cleansing oils, rather than rich creams and lotions.
Most people try to combat dry skin by saturating it with oil – not the best plan when you realize that dry skin is actually thirsty skin. What you need is a regular supply of water – at least eight glasses of water a day – and creams that contain water.
Air conditioning and wind exposure aggravate dry skin, so apply moisturizer at least twice a day, and give yourself the occasional intensive night treatment.
Dry skin doesn’t retain moisture well as it produces few protective oils – no visible surface oil. Dehydrated skin is different – it’s a symptom of an overall drought in your system. Signs include ultrafine crisscross lines over the cheek areas and the presence of oily areas.
An oily skin has definite advantages; it’s a natural moisturizer that protects the epidermis from in- and outdoor climates so that you won’t age quickly. But excess sebum has its downfalls too. It leaves the skin prone to seborrhoea (too much oil), which brings open pores and break-outs.
People with oily skin tend to overwash and over-stimulate the skin, which only serves to increase the activity of the sebaceous glands, resulting in more sebum production.
All skin is essentially combination skin. It is usually plump and evenly coloured, but may have a slight oily panel across the nose, chin and forehead, or T-zone. Quite a few of us have large pores and lots of oil around the nose, chin, and perhaps the forehead. But we also have normal or dry skin under the eyes and on the cheeks. To treat combination skin, you treat the two zones separately, giving the oily bits the sebum-absorbing care they need, and moisturizing the dry or normal bits.
Combination skin
Avoid
• harsh products for the T-zone; exfoliating scrubs; leaving make-up on overnight; and strong-alcohol-based toners.
Look for
• nourishing masks as treats; night cream to maximize beauty sleep, and moisturizers with sun protection.
While sensitive skin is a skin condition rather than a skin type, it is true that some skin – regardless of whether it is oily, dry or combination – is easily irritated and shows red, dry patches where the skin has started to flake.
Sensitive skin
Avoid
• products containing alcohol; surfactants (detergents used in certain cleansers and soaps); fragrances and some plant extracts. Stay out of the sun and protect yourself with high-factor sunscreens.
Look for
• products labelled hypoallergenic or containing skin soothers such as kaolin, camomile and aloe.
When you know your skin type, you’ll be able to buy the right cleanser, exfoliator and moisturizer.
1. After washing my skin feels:
a. so tight that it hurts to smile
b. clean, but it gets shiny 20 minutes later
c. just fine
d. slightly shiny 20 minutes later, only on the T-zone
2. When I don’t use a night cream, my skin looks: a. rough and flaky
b. rather oily
c. same as it did the night before
d. slightly shiny only on the T-zone
3. The pores on my T-zone are:
a. nearly invisible, even when I look in the mirror
b. clearly visible when I stand 30cm (11.7in) from the mirror
c. only visible close up or with a magnifying mirror
d. somewhat visible in a regular mirror
Mostly a answers = dry skin
Mostly b answers = oily skin
Mostly c answers = normal skin
Mostly d answers = combination skin
Skin-care technology has grown in leaps and bounds, allowing us to manipulate our skins in ways never before possible. Today mattifying agents can improve oily skin, retinoids can erase the years and full-spectrum sunscreens protect all year round.
Yet increased awareness and the proliferation of beauty products has led to a lot of confusion when it comes to skin care. Bathroom cabinets are filled to capacity with every imaginable cream and improver, yet problems persist.
Perhaps it’s time to get back to basics, to really listen to your skin. Making the effort to understand the effects that lifestyle, stress, the environment and time can have on the appearance of your skin is crucial. Only then can you make informed choices and start to reap the benefits.
As you know by now, there is no good make-up without good skin. Make-up should enhance your natural beauty, not mask it. Taking responsibility for your skin, means getting into a proper regime and looking after it correctly each and every day.
The better you take care of yourself and your skin, the better you look. Although you can’t change your genetic make-up, you can be kind to your body and you can control your skin’s condition.
SLEEP
Try going without it and you’ll see why you need it so desperately. Under-eye circles and bags are just the beginning.
WATER
Whether it’s drinking eight glasses a day, washing twice a day or hydrating whenever you need it – water is crucial.
SUNSCREEN
To avoid wrinkles, sunburn, brown spots and cancer protect your face with one of the new foundations containing built-in sun protection. Even a basic foundation creates some protection from the sun’s rays.
DON’T SMOKE
Never mind what it’s doing to your lungs, smoking causes wrinkles, especially around the mouth.
TAKE IT OFF
Leaving make-up on overnight clogs pores and is probably the worst thing you can do to your skin.
HEALTHY FOOD
Avoid processed food, which is full of chemicals and preservatives.
Eat a diet rich in antioxidant nutrients: you will find vitamins A, C and E in dairy products, citrus fruits, green vegetables and vegetable oil.
The minerals selenium, zinc and magnesium in fish, nuts, pulses, milk, poultry and wholemeal breads, help combat free radicals.
MOISTURE
Whether you opt for a gel, a cream or a lotion, you will need a moisturizer that suits your skin type. Anything too rich or unsuitable will simply block pores and create unsightly problems.
“Sleep and water are essential to great looking skin.”
A clear, glowing, healthy complexion is an ideal that we all aspire to. Some are luckier than others, but whether you’re trying to improve the skin you’ve got or just maintain it, understanding how your skin functions, and what is actually happening when it starts to wrinkle or develop spots, will definitely help.
Your skin is a protective barrier against harmful external substances such as bacteria, chemicals and UV (ultraviolet) rays. It also helps to retain electrolytes (minerals lost in perspiration) and other essential body fluids. Whatever your particular skin type, there are three basic factors you need to bear in mind if you want a youthful-looking skin. You will need to cleanse regularly, hydrate properly and protect your skin from the elements before you address any of the problems that relate to your particular skin type.
If you want your skin to look and feel great, careful cleansing is important; after all, cleanliness is next to godliness, or so say ancient scriptures and over-zealous parents. True, nothing beats that freshly washed feeling, but there’s a fine line between a clean complexion and a scrubbed one. The latter does little to raise your beauty profile and plenty to destroy your skin’s pH balance.
Choosing the right cleanser can be daunting. There are wash-off gels, AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) rinse-way liquid gels, tissue-off cleansing milks, and soap-free bars. If you experience spots, dry or sensitive skin, it’s worth looking very closely at your cleansing regime. Too much cleansing can cause problems with the protective layers if you are constantly stripping away essential oils.
Soap can dry the skin because it dissolves and washes away skin oils or lipids that seal the skin’s dead, horny layer. Normal skin should be able to make up this lipid deficiency within a few hours, but dry skin often can’t generate enough lipids to make up the shortfall before you next wash your face.
Skin is naturally acidic with a pH balance of around 5.5, soap is generally alkaline with a pH of 8 or higher. If you use soap with hard water you will find it difficult to rinse off. The residue left behind can upset the skin’s natural acid balance and may continue to dry out skin lipids long after the washing process is over.
Cosmetic cleansers are formulated to dissolve the most stubborn of make-up formulations, excess skin oils and dirt. The best cleanser is one that leaves skin lipids in place so that your skin feels supple and fresh without any clogged pores. In the past cleansing milks and lotions were prescribed for dry skins, while foaming washes or non-soap bars were indicated for oilier skins, but with the numerous choices available, texture and preferences are really up to you.
I’d suggest using formulations that rinse away with water – the action is very gentle and the water helps to soothe and hydrate. Tissues can be harsh on fragile skin and may not completely remove residue to keep skins spot free, although you can find moist towelettes that remove all traces of make-up in just one swipe.