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CONTENTS

COVER

ABOUT THE BOOK

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

TITLE PAGE

INTRODUCTION

THE GROUND RULES

THE DIRECTORY

INTRODUCTION

VEGETABLES

FRUIT

HERBS

WHERE TO SEE GREAT FRUIT AND VEG GARDENS

SUPPLIERS AND SPECIALISTS

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

PICTURE CREDITS

COPYRIGHT

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ABOUT THE BOOK

There are many concerns about our fruit and vegetables today – everything from pesticides and GM to ‘food miles’ – so, in his timely, definitive new reference, The Kitchen Gardener, green-fingered guru Alan Titchmarsh provides all the information you’ll need to enjoy the rich rewards of home produce from your own vegetable plot, allotment, patio or even window box.

Alan’s passion for gardening and years of experience growing a huge variety of edibles bear fruit for everybody to share in this one complete volume. Divided into two sections – The Ground Rules, which sets out essential guidelines for any successful crop, and a Directory, which provides detailed A-Zs of fruit, veg and herbs – The Kitchen Gardener starts from scratch, but is also ideal for those with some experience who might be growing edibles in a new way, perhaps in a small space that needs to look attractive, or on a new allotment.

Lavishly illustrated throughout with hundreds of photographs and artworks, The Kitchen Gardener offers inspiration, authoritative in-depth knowledge and practical know-how. Whether you are looking to be self-sufficient, or just to grow a few herbs in a container, Alan’s comprehensive guide is the essential companion.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Originally trained at Hertfordshire College of Horticulture and Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Alan Titchmarsh has enjoyed a long career as a gardener, broadcaster and writer. He is the author of over 40 books about gardening, including How to be a Gardener: Back to Basics, the fastest-selling of all time in the genre. He also writes regularly in Gardeners’ World magazine, is gardening correspondent for the Daily Express and Sunday Express and, in addition to all this, is a bestselling novelist. Plus, of course, Alan is a frequent broadcaster on radio and television, presenting a number of popular high-profile series ranging from Gardeners’ World to The Nature of Britain. He lives in Hampshire.

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WHY GROW YOUR OWN?

‘Growing your own’ has never been more popular, more possible, more fashionable or more fun than it is today. All sorts of people are jumping on the bandwagon, and there are lots of good reasons why.

Some are embracing growing their own for the health benefits. Fresh fruit and vegetables provide fibre, antioxidants and also vitamins and minerals which, it’s thought, do you more good when they come from fresh ingredients than from a jar of pills. We are all encouraged to eat at least five portions of fruit and veg every day, and a real health-buff would try to incorporate all the various colours – red, green, purple and orange or yellow – to be sure of topping-up on the full range of natural plant phytochemicals that are nature’s disease-busters.

If you grow your crops organically – which you really should, because they’ll taste better – you’ll be avoiding having pesticides in your food, too. Don’t overlook the benefits of the good all-round physical work out that fruit-and-veg gardening gives either; it’s great for toning and tightening nature’s baggy bits, and the fruits of your labours are low calorie. Who needs the gym when you’ve got a productive kitchen garden?

Some people grow their own to save money, and certainly if you go in for cultivating crops which are expensive to buy in the shops, such as asparagus, artichokes and soft fruit, you can make some very worthwhile savings. But think of the convenience too; for anyone who works late or lives miles from the shops it’s handy to have a well-stocked, living larder in the garden. Managed carefully, you can have something tasty and fresh available all year round, without needing to fall back on the freezer or phone for a pizza.

For some people, growing their own food is a quality-of-life thing; it’s an activity that the whole family can do together on summer evenings or at weekends. Allotment gardening has really taken off in recent years, and in many cases it’s young families and professional people who’ve swelled the ranks of folk who are found pottering away on their plots. These same people to whom quality of life is important are also often those who are concerned about the environment and want to do their bit for the cause. They appreciate that growing your own is good for the planet and global warming; since it cuts down food miles, reduces the use of fossil fuels and lets you recycle rubbish that might otherwise end up in landfill sites.

Then, of course, there are the food fanciers. Anyone who’s serious about good food very often falls into growing their own so that they can enjoy fresh produce while it’s really fresh – not fresh from a plastic bag full of gas, or pre-prepared so that half the flavour has leaked out or dried up. And it’s a great way of sourcing ‘special’ ingredients that you can’t easily find in the shops – such as fresh kaffir lime leaves or exotic species of Thai basil. For foodies the big buzz is currently for ‘fresh local produce’, and it doesn’t come any more fresh or local than from your own plot with the dirt still on.

Although this isn’t a cookery book, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to pass on a few of my favourite ways of using garden crops. When you grow your own fruit and veg it’s almost impossible not to be interested in the way that you cook and eat them and, however well you plan, you’ll usually end up with a surplus of certain crops at plentiful times of year. To my mind it’s far better to have a few recipes that really make the most of this glut instead of just shoving it all in the freezer, which I reckon should be a last resort.

So take up the spade and put aside your worries; you’re unlikely to regret it.

‘Growing your own’ has never been more popular, more possible, more fashionable or more fun than it is today.

The Ground Rules

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Now, I don’t mean to tub-thump, but when your time and space are valuable – which they are for everyone these days – there’s no point in taking a ‘leave it to nature’ approach to kitchen gardening. It’s not like digging a hole and bunging a shrub in. No, you need to be much more hands-on with fruit and veg – it demands regular, on-going commitment and attention to detail. But that doesn’t mean you have to slave away all hours on your plot; it pays to get right some ‘key points’, then you only need spend time and effort where it counts most in order to produce real results.

So that’s what I’m going to emphasize in this book. Where people usually go wrong is that they take on far more than they can manage then can’t keep up with the work. The result is that their crops are ruined and their time has been wasted. If you were to ask me for my top kitchen-gardening tip, I’d say that you’d do far better to grow half the amount, but grow it twice as well.

SITE AND SITUATION

To produce a good, healthy crop, fruit, vegetables and herbs need to grow fast and steadily, without any setbacks. Good growing conditions are vital for a kitchen garden, so choose a reasonably sunny but sheltered situation with well-drained ground that’s ‘in good heart’. (This is gardener-speak for healthy, fertile soil that’s chock full of well-rotted organic matter and which is brimming with worms, beneficial bacteria and natural nutrients.) Chill winds, heavy shade or soil that becomes waterlogged periodically or dries right out, all spell disaster for your harvest.

Some fruit, veg or herbs also have their own personal peculiarities and requirements which need to be observed in order to keep them happy and healthy. If you want to grow ‘exotics’ such as peaches, nectarines, almonds, posh pears and Mediterranean herbs, a particularly warm, sunny, sheltered and well-drained spot is essential. These sun-worshippers do best against a south-facing wall or on a sun-trap patio where a lot of other crops would ‘fry’. In the same vein, root veg such as carrots aren’t worth growing on ground that’s stony or that has recently been heavily manured, because such conditions will cause their roots fork, making them impossible to peel and also inedible.

So, as a general rule, give edible crops the best part of your garden or else improve the conditions where you would like them to grow. You can do this simply by planting a natural windbreak, such as blackberries grown on a wire-netting fence, by improving the soil with lots of organic matter or, better still, by making a few intensive veg or salad beds with seriously well-enriched soil. (See here for how to improve soil.)

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DESIGN

Traditionally, fruit and veg were always grown down the end of the garden, out of sight, along with the shed, the compost heap, the bonfire and other messy working areas. Nowadays it’s far more fashionable to grow your own in an attractive way, particularly in a small garden where a plot can be seen from the house. To my way of thinking this is a big step forward – a spot of designer flair is no bad thing, even with edible crops.

Planning a fruit and veg patch isn’t so very far removed from designing an ornamental border; the big difference is that fruit and veg are traditionally grown in rows. This is done for a practical rather an aesthetic reason: it is simply because it is more convenient to look after them that way as it’s a lot easier to run a hoe between plants that are growing in straight lines than those scattered all over the place.

Treat this task like any other garden design job: be practical and ask yourself a few basic questions about what you and your family really want from the plot, what you’ll eat lots of, or just what you might fancy occasionally. Think about what’s involved with the various ways of growing veg, how much time you want to spend doing it, and what will happen when you take your summer holidays – it’s no good planting masses of fruit that ripens in August if you’re always away then.

Most importantly, assess the site; see how much space you can spare and if the soil or situation will suit some crops more than others and – I know I keep banging on about it – don’t forget that all fruit and vegetables need good growing conditions.

As for looks, there are many ways in which you can include edible crops in a garden. You might want a conventional plot with fruit and veg laid out in rows, or, if you have a fair-sized space and a garden that is already rather compartmentalized, you might create a separate kitchen garden-within-a-garden. On the other hand, if space is short and the area is always ‘on show’ you could create a decorative potager – a ‘flower bed’ filled with edible plants instead of bedding (see here) – or you could incorporate edible crops into your family garden; with a good-looking and productive salad bed conveniently close to the house, a few ‘special’ crops in pots on the patio and trained fruit trees round the walls.

Whichever approach you choose, and just as with any design changes you want to make to your garden, it pays to start with a plan. Begin by making a sketch of the space available to you to use as a vegetable bed, drawn roughly to scale, and start pencilling in roughly what you want to grow, how much space it occupies and where it could go.

If possible, try to do your planning in autumn or winter so you have plenty of time to undertake any construction, soil preparation and fruit planting before the ‘busy season’ starts.

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Potagers

A potager is basically a decorative vegetable bed. The idea started in the gardens of grand chateaux in France, and the best example still to be seen today is probably the one at Villandry.

But despite its grand origins, the idea does adapt very well to a small scale, and you can be as practical or as inventive with it as you like. The shape doesn’t have to be the standard rectangle; some enthusiasts make circular beds divided into segments like the spokes of a wheel, or you could go modernist and octagonal, or even multi-storey.

A potager can be planted along the lines of traditional geometric herb beds so that crops grow in blocks rather than long rows, (though the plants in the blocks are still planted in straight lines, for easy hoeing). If you go for the traditional style of planting at ground level only, you can add height to the display by growing runner and climbing French beans up symmetrically-placed obelisks of bamboo, timber or metalwork.

The big difference between a potager and a flower bed is that while ornamental plants will still flower if they have a bit of competition from weeds or close neighbours, edible crops must be grown without a check or any setback, otherwise you won’t have much of a harvest.

You can also make a potager in an informal flower bed shape with veg and salad plants dotted about in drifts just like flowers – but be warned, if you take this route you’ll have your work cut out keeping on top of the weeding, and you might not like the look of the gaps that are left behind when you harvest.

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GROWING VEG IN BEDS

We’re not talking ‘interior sprung’ here; the ‘bed’ system is for intensive vegetable growing and will allow you to cram a lot of plants into a small space.

The idea is to make rectangular beds of very deep, rich and fertile soil and plant crops at closer spacings than usual. This approach works because the roots can grow down deeply instead of spreading out widely just below the surface, as they do on more compacted earth. As a result the thickly planted beds need very little weeding, since the closely spaced crops quickly cover the ground and their shade prevents lurking weed seeds germinating.

These intensive beds are really best for herbs, salads and other veg, but they also suit the more compact forms of fruit, such as strawberries, cordons and step-over trees. But growing in beds is a bit different from cultivating crops in large-scale plots. Once you’ve made your bed, the trick is to keep off it so that the soil stays light, fluffy and uncompacted, enabling plant roots to work their way through it quickly and easily and settle themselves in.

From a maintenance point of view, you’ll need to feed and water such beds more frequently than other veg patches because there are a lot of plants packed in a small area, draining it of moisture. But when it comes to protecting plants from pests, it’s far easier and more efficient to cover intensively-grown crops with pest-proof netting or to surround beds with copper strips to deter slug and snails. Which means that beds are well suited to organic growing.

When the ground is vacant in winter, fork beds over to re-fluff up the soil. This is also the time to work in more organic matter (see here). However, in the places you’ll be planting brassicas (which need firm, compacted soil) don’t fork the soil, simply spread organic matter on the surface instead.

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Making a raised bed

Raised beds are good for gardens with wet, heavy or clay soils that are ‘claggy’ in winter, as they improve drainage and warm up faster in spring, but they are also ideal for anyone with thin, shallow soil and for those gardeners who find bending difficult. They look good in a small garden, especially when you want a more decorative ‘designer’ or ‘potager’ effect.

The best time to build beds is in winter, since it’s a job that takes a little time to do, and that way they’ll be ready for use at the start of the season, in spring.

First mark out the area. A good size for intensive beds is 3 × 0.8m (10 × 2.6ft), since you can reach the middle easily without stepping on the soil. If you need a bigger area, it’s better to make several beds with gravel or paved paths between them. (A very long or wide bed just tempts you to step on it, which compresses the ground and ruins much of the benefit of the bed system.)

Fork the ground over as deeply as possible and remove roots, weeds or rubble. Ideally you should work in some well-rotted organic matter too, but don’t bring any underlying clay or chalk subsoil to the surface.

Next, construct the raised edges for the beds. Use wooden planks 30cm (1ft) wide (secondhand scaffolding planks from a salvage yard are ideal). Treat them on both sides and on the edges with a plant-friendly wood preservative and let it dry. (For a more cheerful look, apply the sort of coloured wood preserving paint you’d use on garden fences.) Knock 5 × 5cm (2 × 2in) wooden posts in at each corner and also at 90cm (3ft) intervals along the inside of the framework. Nail or screw your planks to these posts (see below, top illustration). For a decorative potager effect, use corner posts 15cm (6in) taller than your edging planks and top them with wooden knobs or finials. A longer-lasting bed can be made with railway sleepers stacked on top of each other – making the sides three sleepers high is most convenient. Drill through the sleepers and secure them to each other with long screws.

Fill the beds up to the top with a 50:50 mix of good topsoil and well-rotted compost or manure (bottom illustration). Finish by spreading gravel or laying paving slabs between the beds to make good all-weather paths.

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Making a deep bed

This system was popularized by my old mate Geoff Hamilton, and was widely aired on Gardeners’ World during his time as presenter of the programme. With this system it’s essential to have ground that is naturally well drained, otherwise any winter crops will just get bogged down and rot.

Dig down to two spades’ depth, loosening the soil and working in large quantities of well-rotted organic matter as you go. As with raised beds, it pays to make deep beds narrow enough that you can work from both sides without needing to step on the soil. Three metres wide and 0.8 metres long (10 × 2.6ft), is about right – if you make longer beds, put in the occasional plank as a ‘bridge’ so you can cross without stepping on the soil.

If you need to fork the beds over between crops you can do it from the paths alongside, or put down a temporary plank to avoid squashing down the soil in the bed with your feet.

GROWING IN CONTAINERS

A good many vegetables, most herbs and a fair few fruits are well worth growing in containers. This might be a suitable method for you if your garden just doesn’t offer good enough growing conditions, or if you only have a tiny space, or – the big attraction for some people – if you want to avoid doing any digging. But don’t take on too many ‘edible containers’, as they do need a lot of regular watering during the warm summer months and crops will suffer badly if they dry out; just a few days’ forgetfulness can mean you lose the lot. Large containers, such as tubs and growing bags, are the best for fruit or veg since they don’t dry out so quickly, but some crops are even suitable for hanging baskets and window boxes.

As a general rule, small crops are the most suitable for containers; salad leaves, mini cos lettuce, herbs, strawberries and edible flowers are fine even for window boxes, but some of the larger kinds, including runner beans, chillies, outdoor tomatoes and even courgettes, do very well in large containers and they can look very attractive on a patio.

Tubs are also ideal for growing fruit which need acid soil (use ericaceous – lime-free – compost), such as cranberries and blueberries, and for patio peaches and nectarines, which stay small and make ideal flowering/fruiting plants that can spend their whole lives in tubs on a sunny patio.

Figs are another excellent container fruit; by keeping the roots restricted the trees stay smaller and they will also fruit better. You can even grow apple and pear trees in pots – either trained as upright cordons or as normal trees on dwarfing rootstocks (see here). Don’t bother trying this with cane fruit such as raspberries, blackberries and their hybrids, though, as they don’t do well in containers.

Since container-gardening conditions are very different from those found in a kitchen garden (where crops grow freely in the ground), it does require a slightly different growing regime in order to succeed. The way you manage your container crops also depends on whether you are growing them as temporary summer visitors to be dispensed with at the end of the season, or as longer-term residents.

SUMMER VEG IN CONTAINERS

Fill containers with peat-free, multi-purpose compost, then sow or plant crops into them at the same time as you’d normally sow or plant in the garden, if you are keeping them outdoors. Keep crops regularly watered and once they’ve been planted for four weeks, begin liquid feeding them weekly. (Use a general-purpose feed for leafy crops such as spinach and lettuce, and a high-potash tomato feed for tomatoes and other fruiting crops, such as courgettes.)

When you’ve grown fast-maturing crops such as lettuce, salad leaves or spinach, it’s quite all right to grow something else in the same compost afterwards – just clear out the old crop debris and pull out the roots first. Then you can sow or plant something else, but make sure it’s a different kind of crop from a different family: for example, don’t follow lettuce with more lettuce, but planting dwarf beans or spring onions next would be fine. This way you can re-use the same compost several times over during the growing season.

Crops such as tomatoes or chillies will occupy the same container all season, so start them off in fresh compost that’s not been used for something else first, and at the end of the season tip the containers out onto the compost heap. Although it’s tempting to try and save money, don’t reuse the same compost for more than one season, since the nutrients will have run out, the texture will have broken down, and there’s always the risk of disease passing from the old crop to the new one through the compost.

FRUIT IN CONTAINERS

Since fruit stays in the same pots for several years on end, you need to use a specific compost to grow it well – I like to mix John Innes No.3 potting compost with an equal amount of peat-free, multi-purpose compost and 10 per cent of sharp grit. This mixture opens up the texture of the John Innes (which can become very compacted), holds on to nutrients better than multipurpose compost would on its own, and increases the weight of the soil, which means pots don’t blow over so easily in windy weather.

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It’s best to pot up fruit into containers in spring, but if you buy pot-grown plants in summer you can move them into containers when they are in leaf or even carrying fruit, provided you take care not to break up the root-ball and you keep them very well watered afterwards. When planting fruit in pots, use the largest container you can; a 38–45cm (15–18in) tub or a half-barrel is best, since the greater capacity means plants are less likely to dry out in hot weather and are slower to become pot-bound. Support tall plants by tying them to a cane or stake.

Fruit in containers needs a lot of watering from April to September or October; this is particularly crucial while the plants are cropping – if they dry out badly even once during this time they will shed their fruits and you won’t get another chance to ‘get it right’ until the following year. Potted fruit also needs weekly liquid feeding from late April to mid-August. Use liquid tomato feed for most, but use an ericaceous feed for lime-hating kinds such as cranberries or blueberries.

Every spring you’ll need to top-dress potted fruit by scraping away the top five centimetres (an inch or two) of compost and replacing it with fresh stuff. You can make up the same mixture as before (see here), only this time you can add a little slow-release fertiliser to replace missing nutrients. (But you’ll still need to liquid feed in summer as well, since fruit is notoriously hungry.) After 3–4 years the plants will need repotting; do this in spring, about mid-March, just before they start growing again. Either repot them into a slightly larger container, or remove a little of the outside of the rootball and pot them back into the original container with some fresh compost added.

In winter, move plants close to the house or a wall for shelter; you may need to tie them up to trellis to prevent them blowing over and getting damaged in strong winds. Stand the pots up on pot feet or bricks to ensure good drainage. You may still need to water potted fruits occasionally if the plants are sheltered by nearby walls and rain can’t reach them. Check them every week or so.

If a long spell of freezing weather threatens the containers will need insulating in order to stop the roots freezing solid. Strangely enough, if plants do get caught by frost, it’s not the temperature that kills them but drought, since all the water in the compost turns to ice and cannot be absorbed. To prevent this, wrap the pots individually in sacking material or bubble wrap to provide insulation, or push all your containers close together in a corner and tip bark chippings into the gaps between the pots. Alternatively, move the containers into an outbuilding such as a shed or car port; even if it’s fairly dark they’ll be okay for a week or two while they are dormant. Be sure to bring them back outside as soon as it’s safe to do so, though, or by spring they’ll be ex-fruit.

Container-gardening takes a different growing regime to succeed … The way you manage your container crops depends on whether you are growing them as temporary summer visitors or longer-term residents.

TRADITIONAL FRUIT AND VEG PLOTS

These are designed to house a bit of everything – some fruit, veg and herbs – and even though crops are grown in conventional rows, a well-tended plot that’s kept meticulously weeded and with militarily straight rows can still look attractive.

On Victorian and Edwardian country estates the walled kitchen garden was designed like a St George’s flag: very formal, with four identical squares of ground for veg intersected by paths that crossed in the middle. The paths were outlined with showy herbaceous flower beds so that the veg were viewed through airy sprays of blooms, and the surrounding walls housed trained fruit trees. The general effect was pretty, but practical. A stunning walled kitchen garden was a great status symbol which, together with its glasshouses and outbuildings, was often shown off to house-guests during a stroll round the grounds, yet it provided enough food for the whole estate, with truck loads being sent up to London to stock the town house, too.

You can give a small ‘garden-within-a-garden’ a traditional touch by designing it on similar lines, but instead of herbaceous borders I’d suggest edging the paths with ‘cutting beds’ stocked with annual flowers grown especially to be cut and displayed indoors.

If you don’t happen to have a walled garden (and few of us do), then you’ll need to alter the layout. But when designing any formal vegetable patch, it pays to keep annual veg separate from fruit and perennial veg, since they need different management. Fruit trees stay put for a long time, so think carefully about where you plant them. You could have a row along the back of your plot, but don’t plant tall fruit trees where they are going to grow up and cast the whole patch into shade, otherwise your veg won’t grow well. Some people grow soft fruit and strawberries in a fruit cage, as this makes them easier to protect from birds without the bother of constantly rolling and unrolling netting every time you want to do some weeding or pick the ripe fruit.

If you plan on growing perennial veg, such as globe artichokes and asparagus, or perennial herbs, it’s worth keeping them in permanent beds of their own so they don’t interfere with the smooth running of the annual vegetable bed, which needs digging every year.

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Fitting fruit into a family garden

Fruit trees are increasingly being grown in the decorative part of the garden as dual-purpose flowering/fruiting specimens, and they are well worth finding space for.

All have superb spring blossom that rivals many purely flowering species, and some also have autumn colour and good shapes that make them valuable year-round attractions. What’s more, modern dwarfing rootstocks mean they often stay smaller than many purely decorative trees.

Trained fruit trees come in various forms that make them easy to slot into small spaces in decorative gardens; fans and espaliers are stunning on south- or west-facing walls or for growing on trellis, cordons make productive fruiting hedges or they can be trained over arches or used as ‘accents’ at the back of a border, while ‘step-over’ trees are short, single-tier espaliers that make novel ‘rails’ to edge a path or flower border (see here for training information).

Some fruits, such as thornless blackberries, can be trained over arches and others, such as strawberries, are ideal for growing in containers.

Redcurrants and gooseberries are often grown as ‘U’-shaped double cordons, trained against a wall or on trellis, and both can also be trained as small standard trees for growing in tubs or in flower borders.

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ALLOTMENTS

Once you’ve cut your teeth on a small fruit and vegetable patch you may feel like spreading your wings – in which case, why not think about taking on an allotment? Here you’ll have the room to grow crops that take up lots of space, such as pumpkins, maincrop potatoes, sweetcorn, or fruit trees and bushes that don’t fit in your garden. But one word of advice – don’t give up on your small herb and salad patch at home where it’s handy. You’ll find it’s just too much bother to pop over to the allotment to pick a sprig of mint or water a row of baby spinach leaves, but while you’re working there at weekends it’s quite practical to dig enough spuds for the week, or bring back a bucketful of leeks or a carrier bag full of cooking apples.

If you’re toying with the thought of taking on an allotment, don’t think about it for too long. Since ‘growing your own’ became fashionable, there’s been a big demand for allotments and some local authorities have long waiting lists. Allotments change hands in the autumn, so phone the council ahead of time to find out where your nearest site is and if any vacancies are coming up. If a whole allotment is too big for you (and they are pretty hefty), you can always share one with neighbours or a group of friends, and in some popular areas where allotment space is scarce, such as London, it’s quite normal to find half- or quarter-sized plots on offer.

But allotment growing is very different from gardening at home. For a start, allotment sites are far less secure than domestic back gardens, so don’t leave anything valuable there – even locked sheds aren’t totally burglar-proof. Access to water is another problem; there may be a few standpipes, but it’s rare to have a tap for every plot, so you may be reliant on lugging watering cans or taking turns with a hose.

The water question is one reason why allotment crops are traditionally grown at much wider spacings than those in the garden, as this gives each plant a larger area for its roots to ‘forage’ in. The downside to this is that crops take far longer to cover the ground, so you’ll need to do more weeding, but by leaving wide paths between rows of veg it’s a lot easier to walk through the crop to hoe efficiently without doing any damage. Some veg enthusiasts use a wheeled hoe, which you just push between the rows at walking pace; I won’t say it’s entirely effortless (and it takes a bit of getting used to), but when you have a large area to hoe it certainly makes light work of it.

Weeds can be a big issue if you take over an allotment site that’s been neglected by a previous tenant, so be prepared to spend your first winter clearing up, digging, removing roots and working in lots of manure. And since there’s plenty of room, it pays to follow a proper crop rotation plan. (See ‘Planning’).

If you need further persuading to sign up for an allotment, you’ll find that they are very sociable places and allotment-gardeners are a friendly lot who are usually very helpful with advice, encouragement and will even happily give young plants and seeds to beginners to start them off.

If a whole allotment is too big for you … you can always share one with neighbours or a group of friends.

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PLANNING

The kitchen gardening season really starts in midwinter, when the catalogues plop onto your doormat and you start working out what you fancy growing next year. Now, what with long winter nights and a shortage of serious gardening to do, it’s easy to get carried away and order masses of seeds or plants that you don’t have room to grow. We’ve all done it, then spent the summer trying to shoe-horn everything in while watching overcrowded crops go to waste. So it pays to have a planting plan early on.

Draw a plan of your plot, and mark in what you intend to plant in spring, roughly how long the crops will occupy the ground, and what you’ll then follow them with. (You’ll find information about sowing/planting and harvesting times in the fruit and veg directories in this book, and information will also be given on the backs of seed packets and in catalogues – don’t ignore it!)

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR PLOT

Your aim is to make the best use of your space to produce a good range of crops you can eat all year round without ending up with a glut. If you’re clever about it, you can get two or more crops from much of your plot during a single season.

You’ll have a natural talent for kitchen-garden planning if you’re good at Sudoku, playing three-dimensional chess or scoring highly in the sort of computer games that involve going on a quest through several levels while fending off aliens. Even so, you’ll find it helps to ‘park’ the various crops into groups that have similar needs and time scales, so they slot in together to fill the space available without any vacant or double-booked rows.

Some crops occupy the ground for the best part of a year – such as Brussels sprouts, sprouting broccoli and winter caulis – while some kinds are very fast growing, taking only 10–15 weeks from planting to eating, such as baby spinach leaves, lettuce and salad leaves. If you sow a row of these between bigger but slower-growing crops, the salads will have come out by the time their bigger neighbours need more space. This is a practice known as ‘intercropping’.

Some crops are sown or planted early in spring but have been harvested by midsummer, so then you can clear away the rubbish and re-use the space for something else. Early potatoes are ready for digging up in June, which leaves time to plant frost-tender veg such as courgettes, sweetcorn or French beans and also oriental vegetables, which bolt if they are sown too early. Crops that are cleared in mid- or late summer, such as broad beans, can be followed by spring cabbage or fast-maturing veg or salad crops, which can be covered with fleece in autumn to give late crops.

It may sound complicated, but it gets easier the more you do it and you can fine-tune your basic masterplan year after year. Honest!

The big mistake beginners tend to make is to sow far too much of crops that will all come to maturity in the space of two or three weeks, such as lettuce, and create a glut you can’t possibly use before it’s run to seed and ruined (and salads can’t even be put in the freezer). Sowing little and often (say 90cm/3ft of row each week) is a good way of using space productively and keeping your larder sensibly stocked at all times.

Don’t forget to plan for your summer holidays; it’s no good putting in lots of veg that’ll suffer when you’re not there, or growing the sort of fruit that ripens and spoils while you’re away. But if you are planning to go away early in the season, there’s a lot of late veg you can sow when you come home which will crop in autumn under fleece, or you can choose varieties of fruit which ripen before or after your holiday time. (Again, you’ll find out all you need to know about harvest times in the fruit directory, and in specialist nursery catalogues.)

Aim to make the best use of space to produce a range of crops without ending up with a glut.

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CROP ROTATION

Another thing to build into the planning equation is crop rotation. I know that by now you are probably thinking ‘I’m a gourmet, get me out of here!’, but bear with me. Once all the ‘rules’ of rotating crops through your beds have sunk in it becomes almost instinctive, and it really isn’t nearly as complicated as it sounds.

The idea behind this technique of vegetable growing is to avoid planting the same crop in the same bit of ground more than one year in four, which is a great natural way of preventing root diseases. It also makes the maximum use of resources such as manure, which is only needed for certain crops and not others (don’t use it when growing root crops, for instance).

The traditional way to rotate crops was to divide the plot in four; which meant growing potatoes on one quarter, root veg in another, peas and beans in one, and brassicas (the cabbage family) in another, with salads and other quick crops planted in the gaps between rows of bigger, slower crops. (The old intercropping wheeze, remember?)

Now this doesn’t really take into account the demand for ‘modern’ crops such as sweetcorn and courgettes (tuck them in where you can, or grow them on the potato plot if you aren’t growing spuds), but if you stick to the general principle you won’t go far wrong.

Even if you grow in small beds where it’s not practical to follow a strict rotation, just try to make sure you don’t grow the same crop on the same patch of ground any more often than you can possibly avoid. And that’s where making a proper plan helps – especially if you keep your old ones, then you can refer back to them year after year whenever you’re working out what to grow, and where.

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If you haven’t space for four beds, you can just as effectively rotate your crops in three main groups – brassicas (the cabbage family), root crops, and peas, beans, onions and others – growing each group on a different patch of land each year.

CHOOSING VARIETIES

The types of veg you finally decide to grow must be a personal choice, based as much as anything on what your family likes to eat. But when it comes to choosing particular varieties, there are several options.

Tried-and-tested varieties: These are the old favourites you’ve grown before. It’s worth making these your mainstay as you know you can rely on them to do well and that the family will like them.

New varieties: It’s fun trying something new, but be aware that the seed will be more expensive – especially if they are F1 hybrids, which are the really reliable, get-what-you-pay-for seeds – and you don’t get so many per packet.

Unusual veg: These are often unusual for the good reason that they are not to everyone’s taste – think of them as things to experiment with rather than to devote much space to.

Heritage veg: There’s a big trend towards reviving old favourites, particularly with ‘cult’ crops such as tomatoes, potatoes and beans. Some are very good – the ones that have survived have usually done so because of their outstanding flavour – though they’ll often be less productive than modern varieties, or lack modern benefits such as disease resistance or dwarf habits.

Baby veg: These are special varieties that produce properly proportioned veg from very early on so you can pick them when small while they are very tender, (most regular varieties grow long and slim before starting to fill out). Many seed catalogues have a page devoted to baby veg, or they’ll mark varieties as such on the appropriate page or on the packet.

Early cropping: Some varieties of veg, such as carrots and peas, are especially suited to sowing under cover to produce early crops. These are faster growing than other varieties, so they are ideal for small gardens where you need a quick turnover to make the best use of space, and they are also good for sowing near the end of the summer to crop in autumn under fleece or cloches. Again, you’ll find suitable varieties marked as such in catalogues and on the packet.

Disease resistance: A good many of the newer varieties have been specially bred to have natural resistance to pests or diseases that are common to that particular crop – which means you can avoid spraying, so these are ideal for organic growers and anyone too busy to be bothered with pest and disease control.

Dwarf habit: Dwarf varieties of crops such as peas and French beans will save you time, since you don’t have to put up supports or tie them up and they’ll usually perform better in windy weather. Dwarf varieties are often quicker to start cropping than tall varieties as they don’t have to grow a large superstructure first, but, conversely, they often stop cropping sooner, so you need to sow more often, and the total yields are smaller than from tall varieties.

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Frequently asked questions

Q What’s most worthwhile for growing in a small flower bed or in containers close to the house?

A Quick-growing crops that are always useful and best eaten absolutely fresh – such as lettuce, salad leaves, baby spinach, dwarf French beans, radish, spring onions and herbs.

Q What’s decorative and useful to grow in tubs on a warm sunny patio?

A Tomatoes, runner beans, climbing French beans (including the sort with pretty pods used for drying), chillies, courgettes (particularly the kinds with golden fruit), Mediterranean herbs (which like sun and heat) and patio peaches and nectarines (which are naturally dwarf so they can stay in large pots or tubs for life).

Q What’s likely to do best on an allotment where there’s plenty of room but limited access to water, and which won’t spoil if we only visit once every week or two outside the main harvest times?

A Potatoes, sweetcorn, pumpkins and squashes, onions, garlic, brassicas – including sprouting broccoli and Brussels sprouts – leeks, fruit trees and larger canes such as blackberries, loganberries and tayberries.

PREPARING SOIL FOR A NEW FRUIT AND VEG PATCH

When you want to create a new fruit and veg garden on a patch of ground that’s currently covered by lawn or rough grass, or that’s been left uncultivated so that it’s full of weeds, you should allow plenty of time for clearing up first.

The mistake a lot of people make is to hire a rotavator and just push it around to chop up weeds or turf, then bury the lot and start planting straight away. But this is one shortcut that can be disastrous – it simply creates problems for years to come. Strange as it sounds, rotavating actually propagates perennial weeds; it does so by chopping their roots into hundreds of ‘root cuttings’ which all turn into new plants, and it does nothing to discourage destructive soil pests which are usually prevalent in old grassland. So don’t do it; it pays to take your time and do the job properly. It seems like hard work at the time – and it is – but it’ll save you hours of grief in the years to come, I promise.

If the area you have earmarked for your veg patch is covered by grass, your first job is to strip off the turf. Use a spade and skim it off the ground in slices 4cm (1½in) thick so you remove most of the roots. Stack the pieces upside down in an out-of-the-way corner of your garden for 18 months and they will turn into good fibrous loam that you can recycle back onto the garden. If instead of grass you have rough or overgrown ground to contend with, dig out brambles, tree seedlings, perennial weeds and any annual weeds with seedheads, but you can leave smaller, non-seeding annual weeds, as they can safely be dug back in.

Next, dig the ground over roughly – a fork is often best at this stage – taking out large stones, roots and any other rubbish you might find. Then dig it over again, this time using a spade, working in as much well-rotted organic matter as you can lay your hands on. (A barrow-load per square metre/yard isn’t too much when you’re breaking in new ground for the first time – a bucketful per metre/yard is enough for ground that’s previously been well cultivated but allowed to run wild for a time.)

Leave the ground rough for several months at this stage so that birds and other natural predators can remove soil pests and slugs or snails. If you can spare the time, it’s a good idea to fork over the area occasionally to expose more pests so that predators can continue to reduce the population. This also helps to reduce your weed population, as it brings dormant weed seeds to the surface where sunlight ‘triggers’ them to germinate. Hoe off these new crops of weed seedlings or flame-gun them before they have time to set seed or become established. The more of this you can do before you start to cultivate a new plot, the easier it will be to manage the patch later.

Plan your clean-up campaign so that the ground is ready to start using at planting time – for fruit trees and bushes the best planting time is over the winter (any time from late October to mid-March), while the veg-growing season starts in spring, around March/April.

Ground that’s been thoroughly cleared in this way then only needs a little attention immediately before sowing or planting. At that time, fork over the ground, removing any last-minute weeds, sprinkle an organic general-purpose fertiliser (such as pelleted poultry manure or blood, fish and bone) evenly all over the area and rake it in, removing any stones and roots as you go so the ground ends up clean, level and ready to go.

Plan your clean-up campaign so that the ground is ready to start using at planting time.

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ROUTINE SOIL PREPARATION

Although you’ll only need to do a big soil preparation job when you first start a new kitchen garden, the ground that’s being used for annual vegetables still benefits from a little attention every time it falls vacant.

Each autumn, as soon as summer crops have been cleared, spread well-rotted organic matter on those areas that won’t be used for growing root vegetables (such as parsnips or carrots) or potatoes next year. Continue this digging and soil improvement over the winter and early spring as winter crops are cleared, so that by spring the whole plot is ready to go.

Even in summer it’s worth doing a little light soil improvement every time you clear rows of salads or other short-term crops, to prepare it for the next crop. Clear away the old roots and leaves, plus any weeds, taking care not to disturb adjacent rows of plants, then sprinkle some organic general-purpose fertiliser over the bare soil and work it lightly into the ground with a rake before sowing or planting your next crop. This replaces lost nutrients and makes sure growing conditions are back up to scratch so the whole space stays as productive as possible all season.

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The weedkiller alternative

You might consider using weedkiller instead of clearing new ground by hand if you have a serious perennial weed problem, you want quick results, you are not organic, or if you don’t mind using chemicals to clear up first but then plan to turn organic later.

If this is the way you want to go, take care to choose the right product; you need a total weedkiller (which kills everything it touches – grass, weeds and everything else) but make sure it is not a residual type (such as path weedkiller or sodium chlorate) as this will linger in the ground. Choose a product based on glyphosate (such as Round-up or Tumbleweed).

When applying weedkiller, spray it onto weeds or use a watering can fitted with a fine rose or ‘trickle bar’. These chemicals should be applied while weeds are growing vigorously in late spring or early summer. (Wait for a still day to do this, since spray drift can affect nearby plants if the product splashes or blows onto them). Follow the instructions on the packet and don’t exceed the maker’s recommended dose.

Don’t expect instant results; this product is absorbed through the leaves and slowly kills the roots as well, so it’ll be several weeks before you start to see the tops dying off. When this starts to happen you can clear those away by hand or let them dry out on the spot and burn them off with a flame-gun. Wait a month or six weeks to see if re-growth occurs from the remaining roots – this may happen with weeds that are very well established. If it does, repeat the treatment as soon as the weeds are a few centimetres high, so that there’s enough foliage to absorb the product, but not so much that the weeds have time to regain their strength. You might need to re-treat strong and long-established colonies of problem weeds, such as ground elder, three or four times until weeds stop re-shooting.

Allow six or eight weeks after apparent death to be absolutely certain of eradication before cultivating the area.

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ORGANIC MATTER AND FERTILISER

People often confuse the roles of organic matter and fertiliser. The two are completely different, and for a thriving kitchen garden you need a bit of both.

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