Caravan is London’s award-winning, hugely popular collection of restaurants, famous for bringing all-day dining to the UK. With Dining All Day, Caravan has the whole day covered. It begins with morning brews, healthy breakfasts and unbeatable brunches; next up are fresh lunchtime salads, soups, vegetables and grains, then a pause for afternoon bakes, before rounding the day off with stunning dinners, puddings and of course cocktails on the side.
Founded by New Zealanders Chris Ammermann, Laura Harper-Hinton and Miles Kirby, Caravan embodies an antipodean, ‘well-travelled’ food culture and with this book you can get exactly what you are craving at any time of day. The ethos is bold flavours and global influences, relaxed and approachable recipes, vibrant and healthy ingredients. Caravan is about living and eating well.
THANKS GO TO
Rowan Yapp and the team at Square Peg; Issy Croker (photographer); David Lane (design); Hannah Meri Williams (design); Clare Sayer (copy-editor); Shamina Somani and Renée Williams (stylists); Charlie Brotherstone (our agent).
Tanya and the PR team at Gerber; Toby Kidman, our operations director; Matt Burgess, our group head chef; all beautiful Caravan staff past and present.
All our amazing friends and family who have supported us along the way, with whom we have shared many a drink and a meal and without whom we would have no reprieve.
The people who have inspired us and for whom we have great respect: Peter Gordon, Anna Hansen, Jonathan Rutherfurd Best, Margot and Fergus Henderson, Nick Lander, Roger Madelin, Andrew Higgie, Al Brown, Ratnesh Bagdai to name but a few.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Chris Ammermann is the founder and operations director of Caravan. He loves people, hospitality and a good system.
Laura Harper-Hinton is the founder and creative director of Caravan. She loves beautiful food and design, grey, and her tape measure.
Miles Kirby is the founder and chef director of Caravan. He loves all things food and drink, beautiful spaces and efficient storage solutions.
Caravan started with a friendship and a passion for food, creativity and hospitality. The three founders met while working in a bustling restaurant and bar in Wellington, New Zealand over 20 years ago. Chris served the drinks, Miles made the food and Laura welcomed the guests. Over many a late night and too much tequila, the idea that would become Caravan was born. Extensive travelling followed before the team landed in the UK and immersed themselves in London hospitality. Much eating, drinking and long working hours followed and the idea of combining house-roasted coffee and ‘well-travelled’ food, available all day in a relaxed informal setting, eventually crystallised. The rest, as they say, is history.
MORNING BREW
The concept of an all-day restaurant that roasts its own coffee in-house has its roots in the long-established and thriving café and coffee scene of our home country, New Zealand. Good coffee is such an intrinsic part of our culture that it was easily one of the things we missed the most when first arriving in the UK 16 years ago. We wanted to jump straight in and open a coffee roastery and restaurant, serving amazing coffee to the uninitiated. Looking back now, we are glad we waited and spent those defining and valuable years immersing ourselves in London hospitality. We ate and drank our way around town and travelled extensively throughout Europe and around the world before opening our first coffee roastery and restaurant in Exmouth Market in 2010. The specialty coffee scene was just starting to take off in London and, by combining our own in-house coffee roastery with our other passion, food and booze, we created something previously unseen in London.
For us, coffee sits alongside our food and drink in equal measures and so it felt right for the first chapter of the book to be all about that very important ritual – The Morning Brew. We have included a home filter brew recipe, using one of our favourite easy-to-use pieces of equipment. By making a few simple adjustments to your morning coffee routine, you can vastly improve your coffee experience and (we think) your day.
The food recipes in this chapter are classics that have become staples on our takeout counters over the years and are definitely best when enjoyed with a cup of your favourite coffee.
RECIPE LIST
CHEMEX FILTER BREW
COCONUT, FRUIT AND NUT GRANOLA BAR
SPELT, KALE, FETA AND PINE NUT MUFFIN
SWEETCORN, CHEDDAR AND JALAPEÑO MUFFIN
BLUEBERRY AND LEMON FRIANDS WITH MAPLE MASCARPONE
TAMARIND AND DATE MORNING BUN
KIMCHI MORNING BUN
CHEMEX FILTER BREW
1
Weigh 32g of coffee using the scales, grind it to a reasonably coarse grind size; this should have the consistency of rough sand. Place the filter paper into the Chemex. Pour freshly boiled water through the filter, this will get rid of the slight paper taste, and preheat the Chemex. Without removing filter, discard the water from the Chemex. Add the ground coffee into the Chemex.
2
The boiled water will have now cooled down to the ideal temperature of 91–94°C. Place the Chemex onto the scales, and tare (re-set the scale to zero). Start the timer and slowly begin to pour 50–70g of water onto the coffee grinds.
3
When pouring, ensure all grinds are saturated, whilst trying to avoid pouring down the sides of the filter paper. The coffee grinds will start to ‘bloom’ (increase in size); this is the trapped CO2 gas created during the roasting process departing. Allow the bloom to sit, avoiding it drying out.
4
Before the bloom dries out (roughly 30–40sec), start pouring the rest of the heated water. Apply the remaining water in a circular motion, tracking between the inside edge and centre of the Chemex. It should take around 1 minute 40 seconds to reach the total amount of water needed (500g). Avoid moving the Chemex during the process; this will allow the water to pass through the bed of coffee without disruption.
5
When the bed of coffee is dry, remove the filter paper from the Chemex and discard.
6
Give the Chemex a quick swirl to aerate the coffee before serving, and pour.
COCONUT, FRUIT AND NUT GRANOLA BAR
There are so many delicious ingredients packed into these bars, which makes every bite a joy. They are a great snack to have on hand as they are prepared the day before and last well in the fridge for up to a week. It is really important to check the texture of the bar before placing in the fridge to set. If the mixture is crumbly when it goes into the fridge, it will be crumbly when it comes out. Pressing the mixture firmly into the tray is important to ensure the right consistency.
1 Oil and line a 20cm square baking tray with baking paper.
2 Put the coconut oil, sugars, golden syrup and dates in a pan and gently heat to dissolve the sugars. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3 Put all the remaining ingredients into a large bowl and mix well before adding the wet mixture. Mix until well combined. Test the consistency is right by tightly squeezing a handful of mixture to see if it binds. If it does not, add a little more golden syrup.
4 Press the mixture evenly and firmly into the baking tray and place in the fridge overnight to set. In the morning, turn the bar out onto a chopping board and use a sharp knife to portion as you see fit. This will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to a week.
Coconut, Fruit and Nut Granola Bar
SPELT, KALE, FETA AND PINE NUT MUFFIN
This muffin started life as a salad; we felt the combination of flavours was so good that a muffin must be made too; similar ingredients have made their way on to our pizzas as well. The result is a deliciously moist, tangymuffin, making it a great alternative to sweet muffins. As with all muffins, they are best enjoyed warm from the oven slathered in butter. If you don’t have spelt flour to hand, you can use plain flour or wholemeal which also yields great results, in fact playing around with a couple of different flours can really add to the flavour of these muffins – feel free to get creative.
MAKES 12 180g curly kale 230g plain flour 200g white spelt flour 2 tsp baking powder 5g fine sea salt 3 eggs 300ml whole milk 330g Greek yoghurt 250ml vegetable oil 150g Cheddar, grated 150g feta cheese, crumbled 50g pine nuts, toasted
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and butter a 12-hole muffin tray or individual muffin tins.
2 Blanch the curly kale in a large pan of boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and refresh in cold water, then drain again, squeezing out as much excess moisture from the kale as you can. Roughly chop and set aside.
3 Sift the flours and baking powder into a medium bowl. Add the salt and stir together so everything is evenly mixed.
4 Lightly whisk the eggs in a large mixing bowl, then whisk in the milk, yoghurt and oil.
5 Mix the flours into the wet ingredients and stir well until all the flour is mixed into the wet. Fold the Cheddar, feta, kale and half the pine nuts into the mixture.
6 Divide the mixture evenly between the 12 muffin tins and then scatter over the remaining pine nuts. Immediately place in the oven and bake for 20–25 minutes. Check to see if they are ready by inserting a wooden skewer into the centre of a muffin; if the skewer comes out clean, they are ready.
7 Remove from the oven and let them sit for 5–10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack. Serve immediately with lots of butter.
Spelt, Kale, Feta and Pine Nut Muffin
SWEETCORN, CHEDDAR AND JALAPEÑO MUFFIN
We created these muffins as a takeout version of our hugely popular jalapeño cornbread and they have now become a staple. The texture of these muffins is in your hands. We prefer them with a firm, dense consistency; resting the batter for up to 3 hours before baking will make them so. Cooking them straight away will make for a more crumbly, light-textured muffin. Either way they are delicious.
1 Butter 12 individual muffin tins or a 12-hole muffin tin.
2 Sift the flour, baking powder and smoked paprika into a bowl. Add the polenta and salt and stir together until evenly mixed.
3 Lightly whisk the eggs in a large mixing bowl, before whisking in the milk and oil. The oil will rest on top, which is fine.
4 Mix the dry ingredients bowl into the wet and stir until combined, then fold in the sweetcorn, Cheddar, jalapeños and chopped coriander.
5 Divide the mixture evenly between the 12 muffin moulds and set aside – for a denser texture leave to rest in the moulds for 3 hours. When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 180°C.
6 Bake the muffins for 25–30 minutes. Check to see if they are ready by inserting a wooden skewer into the centre of a muffin. If the skewer comes out clean, they are ready. Remove from the oven and let them sit for 5–10 minutes before turning out on to a wire rack. Serve immediately.
Sweetcorn, Cheddar and Jalapeño Muffin
BLUEBERRY AND LEMON FRIANDS WITH MAPLE MASCARPONE
The friand is an institution in New Zealand; you will find them in most cafés and coffee bars. They are mini oval cakes made with ground almonds and they have the most delicious texture. We have been making them with seasonal fruits and flavours since we first opened our doors, as they really do go so well with a coffee or tea – this recipe is one of our most popular versions. The maple mascarpone adds a decadent layer that you can choose to leave out – the friands are great on their own but we think the mascarpone takes them to another level.
1 Preheat the oven to 180°C and butter 12 × 100ml friand moulds. These are typically oval in shape but you could also use a regular muffin tin.
2 Combine the flour, sugar and ground almonds in a large bowl. Gently fold in the melted butter, lemon zest and juice.
3 In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks (or you can whisk by hand).
4 Gently mix the blueberries into the batter mixture.
5 Very gently fold a third of the egg whites into the mixture, then fold in half the remaining whites. Repeat the process with the last of the egg white. It is important the whites are mixed gently so the air is not knocked out of the batter, as this is what gives the friands their light fluffy texture.
6 Place a dollop of mixture without blueberries into the base of each mould. Then divide the remaining mixture evenly into the 12 moulds, making sure that the blueberries are evenly distributed.
7 Bake in the oven for 18–25 minutes. Check to see if they are ready by inserting a wooden skewer into the centre of a friand; if the skewer comes out clean, they are ready. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before turning out onto a wire rack.
8 Meanwhile, combine all the ingredients for the maple mascarpone together and chill until ready to use.
9 Once the friands have cooled completely, cut each one in half horizontally. Spoon a decent-sized dollop of maple mascarpone onto the base piece of each friand and then place the lid back on top.
NOTE
It is important that the friands are totally cool and the mascarpone is straight out of the fridge and firm. If the friands are still warm, the mascarpone will melt.
Blueberry and Lemon Friands with Maple Mascarpone
TAMARIND AND DATE MORNING BUN
The process for making these delicious brown balls of goodness takes some real commitment to get them just right, but the outcome is totally worth it.
It is a good idea to start these the day before you require them as proving times can vary and rushing the process can make for disappointing buns. You can even make these in advance by freezing the filled and rolled dough: just slice off what you need the day before and then prove the individual portions before baking first thing the next morning. We recommend eating them straight from the oven, when they are crisp on the outside and soft and gooey in the middle, but they are also great later on in the day as well.
1 Place the flour, sugar, milk and yeast into a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment and mix on slow speed for around 4–5 minutes to combine. Add the soft butter and continue to knead on slow until combined.
2 Now add the salt and knead on high speed for around 10 minutes until you can see a glossy sheen and the dough is elastic and has formed into a ball. Cover the bowl with a clean tea towel and leave to rest for 1 hour.
3 Remove the dough ball from the mixing bowl and use a rolling pin to roll into a rectangle 16cm wide and 30cm long. If the dough is a little sticky, use a very light dusting of flour on your work surface.
4 Now roll the chilled butter into a piece 15cm wide and 14cm long. Place the butter in the middle of the dough and fold the top and bottom of the dough into the centre. Spin the dough 90 degrees so the crease is now running vertically, and roll the dough out to a rectangle 16cm wide and 45cm long.
5 Fold the bottom edge of the rectangle up 5cm, then fold the top edge all the way down to meet it, then fold the dough in half. Move the dough onto a sheet of baking paper and rest in the fridge for 1 hour.
6 Remove from the fridge, roll out to a 16 × 45cm rectangle and then fold, then fold the bottom third up and the top third down over it. Move onto a sheet of baking paper again and return to the fridge to rest for 2 hours.
7 Meanwhile, make the tamarind and date purée. Place all the ingredients in a medium pan and bring up to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and drain away the water before pushing the mixture through a fine sieve – you should get about 150g purée. Set aside to cool while you grease 12 individual muffin tins or a 12-hole muffin tin with butter.
8 Remove the dough from the fridge and roll out to a 60 × 20cm rectangle. Spread the purée evenly over the dough and, starting at one of the short edges, roll up from top to bottom. Trim the edges and then cut the roll into 12 equal pieces. Place into the prepared tin and leave to prove until almost doubled in size. (This will depend on how warm your kitchen is, but could be from 3 to 6 hours).
9 Preheat the oven to 175°C. When the dough has doubled in size, brush the tops of the buns with egg wash and then bake in the oven for 15–20 minutes until golden. Leave to cool in the tin for 5–10 minutes. Combine the honey and boiling water in a small bowl.
10 Turn the buns out onto a wire rack with a tray underneath it and then brush the honey glaze over the top of each bun.
KIMCHI MORNING BUN
This recipe was inspired by a trip to San Francisco, where we encountered similar tasty little buns at a specialty coffee roastery, and it has become a staple on our takeout counters. It pays to start these the day before you need them due to proving times. The combination of savoury sweet pastry with tangy, spicy kimchi makes these a perfect bite for those who like something savoury in the morning (or afternoon!).
1 To make the dough for these buns follow steps 1–6 for the Tamarind and Date Morning Bun here.
2 Lightly butter 12 individual muffins tins or a 12-hole muffin tin.
3 Roll out the dough to a 60 × 20cm rectangle. Spread the kimchi evenly over the dough and, starting at one of the short edges, roll up from top to bottom. Trim the edges and then cut the roll into 12 equal pieces. Place into the prepared tin or tins and leave to prove until almost doubled in size. (This will depend on how warm your kitchen is, but could be anything from 3 to 6 hours.)
4 Preheat the oven to 175°C. When the dough has doubled in size, brush the tops of the buns with egg wash and sprinkle the black sesame seeds evenly over the tops. Bake for 15–20 minutes.
5 Leave to cool in the tin for 5–10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack. Enjoy on the day, while still a little warm!
Kimchi Morning Bun
BREAKFAST & BRUNCH
It all started with a cup of coffee and an egg (well, lots of eggs!). Weekday breakfasts and brunch at the weekends were a key part of what we wanted to offer at Caravan, and they are a serious passion of ours. As with great coffee, brunch is an institution in New Zealand and we wanted to bring that relaxed, easy-going, sunny Sunday experience to our London restaurants.
You can walk into our restaurants any morning of the week and see people sipping coffee and working on laptops or with papers out all over the tables. Breakfast meetings have become the new lunch meetings, and our spaces are filled with creatives, professionals, parents with kids and students from all walks of life, all enjoying coffee and breakfast.
For weekend brunches we like to take it up a couple of notches, largely due to the ever-increasing popularity of brunch in the UK. We turn the music up, and the food and coffee flow from morning to afternoon at a fun, energetic pace.
The breakfast section in this chapter includes easier, faster-paced recipes for workday breakfasts and quick and easy weekend dishes. As with our restaurant menus, there is a balance of healthy, energy-boosting ingredients with a few indulgent ones as well.
The brunch section was harder to compile as there are so many personal favourites and crowd-pleasers that we have built up over the years, some of which have been on our menus since day one. A few recipes may seem a bit complicated at first glance, but we urge you to give them a go. Cooking brunch at home for friends and family is one of our most pleasing weekend activities and turning it into a lengthy feast makes it all the more enjoyable. Do some of the preparation the day before so you can enjoy more time chatting to your loved ones – many components yield better results when cooked the day before anyway. Start off with Bloody Marys or a breakfast martini (depending on how you want the day to roll!), a preamble of fruit or avocado on toast and then let the feasting begin.
RECIPE LIST
OAT, SUPER SEED, FRUIT AND NUT GRANOLA WITH SALTED COCONUT YOGHURT
OVERNIGHT MUESLI
SESAME LABNEH WITH FRESH SEASONAL FRUIT, CHIA-HONEY SYRUP AND CACAO NIBS
AVOCADO WITH CHILLI FLAKES AND LEMON ON GRANARY TOAST
OAT AND QUINOA PORRIDGE WITH BANANA, DATES, MAPLE SYRUP AND ALMONDS
CHEDDAR AND CARAWAY ONION JAM ON SOURDOUGH TOAST
CREAMY SOY MUSHROOMS ON SOURDOUGH TOAST
COCONUT BREAD WITH LEMON CURD CREAM CHEESE AND POACHED RHUBARB
GRAIN PANCAKE WITH MAPLE SYRUP AND BUTTER
AUBERGINE PURÉE WITH PRESERVED LEMON GREMOLATA AND POACHED EGGS
CORNBREAD FRENCH TOAST WITH AVOCADO, BACON AND PAPRIKA MAPLE SYRUP
BAKED EGGS WITH TOMATO-PEPPER RAGOUT AND GREEK YOGHURT
CRAB OMELETTE WITH CITRUS MAYONNAISE
SHRIMP ‘N’ GRITS WITH BOURBON BUTTER
FRIED BROWN RICE WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS, FRIED EGGS, GREENS AND CHILLI
SALT BEEF FRITTERS, GREEN BEANS AND FRIED EGGS
HAM HOCK HASH WITH POACHED EGGS, PEAS AND HOLLANDAISE
KIMCHI PANCAKE, SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY AND FRIED DUCK EGGS
POACHING EGGS
CORNBREAD
OAT, SUPER SEED, FRUIT AND NUT GRANOLA WITH SALTED COCONUT YOGHURT
We love this granola. It has been on all our menus, and our customers seem to love the flavours and the fact that it’s packed full of slow-release deliciousness to set you up for the day ahead. Don’t be bound by the fruits, nuts or seeds listed here; feel free to sub in any of your favourites to create your own delicious version. The key ratio is the oats to liquid so they are not greasy but all lightly coated. The salt on top is optional but we highly recommend you try it. It lifts the whole dish to the next level.
1 Preheat the oven to 170°C.
2 Combine the honey, coconut oil, coconut palm sugar and cardamom pods together in a small pan and gently heat to dissolve the sugar and honey.
3 In a large bowl, combine the oats, coconut, buckwheat, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, chia seeds, flaxseeds and pistachio nuts.
4 Place a sieve over the large bowl and strain the honey mixture through the sieve to remove the cardamom pods. Mix the honey mixture through the oats, making sure all the oats and other dry ingredients are thoroughly covered.
5 Transfer the mixture to 2 large baking trays and spread out to create a shallow layer on each tray. Bake in the oven for 40–50 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes or so.
6 Remove from the oven and allow to cool fully before mixing in the dried fruits and storing in an airtight jar. This will keep in a cool dry place for up to 2 months.
7 Serve each 90g portion of granola with a dollop of coconut yoghurt, a pinch of flaked sea salt and the bee pollen, if using. Add almond milk to taste.
Oat, Super Seed, Fruit and Nut Granola with Salted Coconut Yoghurt