Published in 2014 by Stewart, Tabori & Chang
An imprint of ABRAMS
Copyright © 2014 Nadia Zerouali and Merijn Tol
Illustrations © 2014 Rosa Vitalie
Photographs © Sven Benjamins
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher.
Library of Congress Control Number: 2013945653
ISBN: 978-1-61769-108-9
Editor: Holly Dolce
Designer: Sebit Min
Production Manager: Anet Sirna-Bruder
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What is Arabic cuisine? We like to take a broad view. For us, it encompasses all of the rich, ancient cuisines of the Middle East, ancient Persian-Arabic cuisine, ancient Ottoman and Turkish cuisine, the cuisines from the countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea (including the Arabic influences in Spain and Italy), the cuisines from the Maghreb countries (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya), and the influences they had elsewhere.
Just when we were making plans for a new culinary forage in the Arabic world, we realized that we still had so much in our heads, bellies, and hearts that we needed to begin by making a book at home: a book in which every lover of the rich Arabic cuisine in our homeland could find a clear explanation and illustration of the flavors, ingredients, and recipes from our beloved Arabia.
We started referring to this region of the world as Arabia during our journey, by car, from Beirut to Damascus. Arabic is the language that binds the people throughout the Arabic world, a world with many countries, each with a contemporary, colorful, and delicious collection of peoples and cultures.
And just like the Arabic influence traveled with the Moors from Spain to the Netherlands in the form of almond paste–filled phyllo dough rolls, kruidnootjes (small cinnamon-nutmeg-gingerbread–like cookies), and hutspot (a Dutch carrot-potato stew), that influence is now visible everywhere in our country, in the cities but also in smaller villages, in the form of new neighborhood delis. Tahini and flat-leaf parsley are readily available in your Turkish and Moroccan groceries.
Middle Eastern cuisine is characterized by sour, fresh, zesty, and aromatic flavors in the form of yogurt, sumac, lemon, parsley, mint, dill, and many raw, vegetables.
The Maghreb cuisines are spice filled, with contrast in sweet and salty flavors. Many spices with sweet flavors are combined with hearty, fermented flavors like candied lemon and smen; dried subtropical fruit, nuts, parsley, mint, and cilantro are usually not used raw.
In Mediterranean cuisine, one finds influences from the cuisines mentioned above, with ingredients like couscous, almonds, parsley, spices, and citrus. The sweet pastries and cookies from the Arabs remain especially present in the modern Mediterranean cuisine.
This book is an ode to all those products and hopefully an invitation to indulge in these rich cuisines and cultures. In this book you’ll find real Arabia recipes and traditional recipes from Lebanon, Iraq, Spain, Morocco, Israel, Yemen, Tunisia, Syria, Jordan, Bahrain, Afghanistan, Turkey, Iran, and Italy. We are incredibly happy to have grown up in the Netherlands, among the delicious foods that originally stem from all these cuisines: all flavors and ingredients are nearby. Yet because we are Dutch, we can operate freely while remaining conscious of tradition and recipes. We aren’t bound by borders—the ingredients provide the directions. Bismilla, sahtein!
You carry all the ingredients
To turn your existence into joy.
Mix them,
Mix them!
Hafiz, Persian Sufi poet from the thirteenth century
Abundance! No need to call at 5:30 p.m. to ask if they can prepare an extra serving. At the Arabic table there’s always room for at least ten people if necessary. It wouldn’t occur to a cook in Arabia to prepare a measured amount of food. Leftovers? You’ll make your neighbors, friends, and family happy. And you’ll make new friends. Once we were accused of making quantities that could feed an entire soccer team. Yes, that’s true, and we do it with pleasure! Even when we cook for our Arabia popup restaurant, everybody leaves with doggy bags so they can enjoy the leftovers the next day. We provide them for the reactions alone. And although we’ve adapted things here, be aware that our quantities for four to six people can often please five to eight people. There is a famous Moroccan saying that when you divide a dish between two plates, it’s enough for two; if you serve the dish in a large bowl to share, then the same amount of food can feed ten. If you are making several dishes, be aware of the quantities: half the amount will suffice. Except when, just like us, you want to make everyone around you happy. In that case make enough or too much, allow everyone to take home containers, and become immortal. You can eat almost all dishes with bread: from flatbread to Turkish or Moroccan bread, or simply your own homemade bread. Bread is holy in the Arab world. No bread, no life.
We love sumptuous lunches. You can sample many dishes, relax, and still have enough time to digest all that food. A Saturday or Sunday Arabia lunch is perfect for inviting friends and family (ideally people who don’t know each other, a mix of young and old!), to catch up, to quietly enjoy lots of food, and to put conversation skills to good use.
It’s commonly believed that Arabic cuisine is very complex and uses many ingredients in one recipe, but most dishes actually are very simple and not expensive to prepare. And while the flavors are very rich (even more so because you often eat several dishes at the same time), almost all recipes are quite approachable for even the novice cook. The most important thing is to taste, taste, taste! We always use many spices and herbs, and a lot of olive oil and lemon juice. Don’t be afraid—just sample and then season to taste. What if you lack a certain ingredient? It’s not the end of the world; you can do it without it, or replace the ingredient with something else. No cilantro? Use parsley. No bulgur? Use small pasta. No almonds? Use hazelnuts or walnuts. You might come up with an interesting variation. We love to forget an ingredient: It forces us to improvise and that’s when delicious things start to happen! This cuisine also follows the seasons: When there are quinces available, you’ll prepare them in various ways. The same goes for fava beans, artichokes, and other seasonal fruits and vegetables.
A good chopping board and a sharp chef’s knife are indispensable for all your cutting and slicing. A large, sturdy mortar and pestle is also good to have: You’ll use it to grind herbs, nuts, and spices. Of course, you can also do this with a hand blender or simply by chopping and mincing, but once you’ve discovered the mortar and pestle you won’t want to use anything else. It’s an ideal way to blow off steam! A food processor or hand blender is indispensable for hummus and most soups. If you want to steam your couscous and if you believe you’ll make many tajine dishes, it’s worth the effort to buy a real couscoussière (a steamer and pan in two parts) and an earthenware tajine (a pot consisting of a round base and a funnel-shaped cover). Forget about the modern versions in fancy cookware stores; the old-fashioned Moroccan variety found in Middle Eastern shops works best. You can also use a Dutch oven. We are addicted to the Microplane grater for grating citrus zest as well as ginger, garlic, and so on. A mandoline slicer is nice to have for shaving vegetables in very thin slices; if you don’t have one, simply use a cheese slicer or a sharp knife.
We have organized the recipes in this book according to their most important ingredients: In each chapter, we cover one type of ingredient, such as couscous, bulgur, or orange blossom water. We explain what it is, how delicious it tastes, how to use it, and where you can buy it. When you buy an ingredient from every chapter in the book you’ll have created your own basic Arabic culinary pantry, and you’ll be able to make do for most recipes by combining with fresh vegetables and spices, fish, and meat. Look for Moroccan, Turkish, and Middle Eastern sources in the back of the book (this page).
Parsley is always flat-leaf parsley. Try to purchase large bunches, the way you would buy them in a Turkish or Moroccan store.
Olive oil is usually a grassy, fruity extra virgin oil for salads and to season dishes. We use a mild olive oil for baking and, in some dishes, we use a specific olive oil, like a rustic Moroccan oil.
We prefer to use organic citrus fruit because we like to eat the skin as well.
All vegetables are washed, peeled, or cleaned.
In our recipes, 1 clove of garlic means 1 peeled clove of garlic and 1 onion means 1 peeled onion. Nuts are always skinned, unless stated otherwise, and everything is fresh, if possible. We like to buy organic chicken and meat. Our fish is always of the best quality, in season, and as sustainable as possible. Ask your fishmonger what’s good.
We list salt and pepper only in the recipe directions, not among the ingredients, because cooking without salt and pepper is impossible. It’s best if you have both fine and coarse salt on hand, and ideally also salt flakes, such as Maldon sea salt. We use spices generously, and you might want to start with less and add more to suit your own personal taste.
There are a couple words that summarize Arabic cuisine wonderfully. The dishes are always a feast for the eyes, and in fact for all your senses. They are true aromatic explosions in your mouth and they stimulate body and soul. We say bismilla and sahtein.
Yalla! Get to work!
Bismilla and sahtein bon appetit and santé (in Moroccan and Lebanese)
Meska horra mastic, a resin (sometimes called Arabic gum) used across the Middle East for everything from smoked meats to desserts.
Khobz bread
Mai water
Mazahar orange blossom water
Ma’ward rose water
All we eat has been alive
The act of love makes life
So food—is life—is love
Make love—eat life
Søren Wiuff
(Søren is the vegetable supplier to Noma, Rene Redzepi’s famous three-star restaurant in Copenhagen.)
• CONTENTS •
Olives and Olive Oil
Chicory from Puglia with chickpea puree
Oven-Dried Olives with garlic, bay leaf, and orange
Harira with cumin, celery oil, and poached quail eggs
Olive Oil Cake with carob, pine nuts, and sweet ras el hanout
Green Cauliflower Couscous with citrus zest and pine nuts
Bulgur and Freekeh
Wheat Salad with caramelized artichoke, fennel seed, and beet tops
Potato Kibbeh with orange and lemon zest
Bulgur Salad with pomegranate molasses, roasted squash, and pistachio
Hearty Freekeh Soup with chickpeas and lamb
Bulgur Salad with fava beans, dill, and paprika herb paste
Preserved Lemons
Grilled Potatoes with salsa verde and preserved lemon
Moghrabieh and fishcakes with preserved lemon and harissa
Wintry Bulgur Salad with turnips, preserved lemon, and pomegranate-walnut dressing
Fava Bean Salad with almonds and preserved lemon
Paprika Paste, Harissa, and Aleppo Pepper
Stir-Fried Savoy Cabbage with harissa and garlic
Fish Soup with sofregit, paprika paste, and garlic picada
Samak Harra with harissa, Aleppo pepper, and tahini sauce
Harissa Stew with merguez and sweet potato
Potato Köfte with Turkish paprika paste, walnuts, and sumac yogurt
Tahini
Grilled Eggplant with fresh herbs, almonds, and tahini dressing
Tahini-Halva Ice Cream
Salad of Roasted Cauliflower with lentils and tahini dressing
Tahini and Pekmez with crunchy simit
Spices
Seasoned Salt coriander-anise salt, cumin salt, caraway-cumin-chile salt, fennel salt
Meghli with spices
Cinnamon–Star Anise Quinces
Saffron Tea with sellou
Cumin Fennel Fries
Chickpeas and Lentils
Iraqi Madfuna
Fetteh with chickpeas
Lebanese Hummus with Egyptian dukkah
Fukharit’adas lentil stew from Gaza with dill pepper oil
Orange Blossom and Rosewater
Watermelon Granita with rose water
Tomato Chutney with honey, sesame seeds, and orange blossom water
Cucumber Water and Date Sauce with orange blossom water
Rose Meringue with pomegranate arils
White Cabbage–Carrot Salad with tarragon and orange blossom water
Grape Leaves, Pickled Vegetables, and Capers
Cucumbers and Sweet Peppers stuffed and pickled
Grape-Leaf Rolls with labneh, nuts, tarragon, and sumac
Pickled Turnips
Lamb Chops with salted capers and an oregano bread-crumb crust
Couscous
Corn Couscous with preserved lemon, saffron, and artichoke
Couscous with Hake and fennel bouillon and preserved orange blossom tomatoes
Zucchini Couscous with pistachios, saffron, and lemon zest
Belboula Couscous with butternut squash, harissa, coriander, and spicy ground-lamb meatballs
Yogurt, Dairy, and Cheese
Grilled Vegetables with watercress yogurt and crunchy almond oil
Arabia’s Labneh basic labneh; labneh with anise seed, tomato seeds, and green pepper; labneh with anise seeds, rose petals, and pomegranate arils; labneh with za’atar, parsley, and sesame seed; labneh with crunchy hazelnuts and citrus zest
Pickled Labneh Balls
Fried Eggs with warm garlic yogurt
Pomegranates and Pomegranate Molasses
Stuffed Dates with almond-pomegranate paste and orange blossom and rose water
Roasted Beets with pomegranate molasses, white cheese, and cardamom-orange zest
Anise Yogurt with pomegranate molasses, pomegranate, and passion fruit
Focaccia with spinach, Roquefort cheese, and pomegranate molasses
Sumac
Grape-Leaf Bundles with cherry tomatoes and sumac
Sumac Chicken with lemon, pomegranate molasses, and toum
Kibbeh Naye with rose petals and sumac
Herb Salad with sea beans, Turkish cheese, and sumac-pomegranate dressing
Sucuk-Semolina Pizzas with sumac and pine nuts
Dips and Spice Mixes
Arabia’s Dukkah
Hummus carrot hummus; fava bean hummus; beet hummus
Za’atar with rose petals
Ras el Hanout sweet and savory
Sabaa Baharat 7-spices
Figs, Dates, and Apricots
Date-Saffron Fudge
B’stilla with saffron chicken, almonds, dates, and orange-zest sugar
Fig Wreath with anise seed and tahini dip
Chicken with Preserved Lemon with ras el hanout and date-apricot vermicelli
Lamb Tajine with figs, cinnamon, and rosemary
Pasta
Pappardelle with köfte and pesto Trapanese
Turkish Pasta with sucuk, chickpeas, and dill
Riso Salad with asparagus, lemon, ricotta, and buffalo mozzarella
Fideus with grilled squid and migas
Short Turkish Pasta with pulled lemon-garlic chicken, tahini, and yogurt
Phyllo and Yufka Dough
M’hancha with dried Mediterranean fruits and cinnamon sugar
Phyllo Dough Pastries with mhallabieh and medlars
Börek with nomad cheese and oregano
Fish B’stilla with sautéed saffron-fennel and fennel salad
Yufka Rolls with za’atar, cold yogurt, and warm garlic–pine nut butter
Nuts
Sesame and Poppy Seed Bundt Cake with rose petal jam
Hazelnut Honey Cookies with pine nuts
Fesenjan with Quail with pomegranate and walnuts
Kanafeh with pistachio-anise kaymakli and figs
Sweet-Salty Nuts with citrus and fennel seed
Rice
Maqlooba with eggplant and fresh dill yogurt
Kushari
Gala’s Golden Rice with orange and lamb stew
Herbed Rice Salad with pistachios, almonds, and 7-spices dressing
Smen and Argan Oil
Root Vegetable Tajine with smen and almonds
Light Semolina Soup with garlic-saffron bouillon and argan oil
Amlou from almonds and hazelnuts with anise
Herbed Smen step by step
Bread
Fkakes
Rghaif
Mama Fadila’s Bread
Chebakkia
Our Own Arabian Flatbread
Friends
Reem’s Shish Barak
Shahar’s Yemenite Chicken Soup with skhug
Mina’s Quinces Tarts with almond custard
Kamal’s Orange Chicken with garlic and potato
Ingmar’s Tamaaya Sudanese falafel
How to enjoy an effortless festive Arabic meal at home
Music to accompany a wonderful Arabian dinner party
Arabia menus
Grocery stores
Dutch design in Arabia at home!
Index of Searchable Terms
Shukran!
Every dish deserves its own olive oil. Hummus and labneh like a fruity green olive oil, for example a Greek or Italian one from Puglia. Rustic Middle Eastern dishes prefer a flavorful nabali or rumi olive oil. And for some specific Moroccan peasant dishes we choose a potent rustic olive oil from Ouazzane, a town in northern Morocco.
Middle Eastern olives are very different from Moroccan olives; they are usually more bitter. They are green, cracked nabali, souri, or baladi olives, and they’re divine. You can find them in Middle Eastern groceries. We like to eat them with our meals—breakfast, lunch, and mezze. The black Turkish breakfast olives (that’s what they are called!) are worthy of their name. We love to eat Moroccan olives, whether the salty, black, wrinkled olives, the pickled green olives with red-hot pepper and preserved lemon, or the purple lemon olives, for breakfast or lunch, with fresh bread on the side. It’s also delicious to pit black Moroccan olives and toss them in a dish. We like to eat small Spanish and Italian olives, like arbequina and taggiasca, in between meals or in dishes.
If the ancient olive trees could speak... We once stood in blistering heat among the impressively massive, age-old olive trees near Jenin, and we still remember the peaceful tranquility and coolness that they exuded.
When we were in Puglia, Italy, it struck us how similar the food was to dishes we knew from the Middle East: the way people eat green, slightly bitter vegetables, and also the hummus-like mixtures, the white cheese, and the cookies and other sweets—it was just like Lebanon! This is a wonderful dish to celebrate the fruity green olive oil from Puglia, which tastes like green tomato and artichoke.
Chicory from Puglia
With chickpea puree
SERVES 4
9 ounces (250 g) dried chickpeas (soaked overnight, see this page)
2 cloves garlic
Mild olive oil
6 anchovy fillets (ideally preserved in salt, otherwise in olive oil)
1 peperoncino or Aleppo pepper (see this page)
1 head chicory
Fruity green olive oil
• Cover the chickpeas with water and boil until tender, about 45 minutes.
• Finely slice the garlic and sauté in a large sauté pan with a generous splash of mild olive oil. Add the anchovies and some chopped pepperoncino and allow the fish to melt in, about 10 minutes. Separate the chicory leaves and chop coarsely. Add the chicory to the sauté pan, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes. Season with some salt, but be careful: the anchovies are also salty.
• Puree half of the chickpeas with a dash of water and some salt, then stir in the remaining chickpeas. Serve the chickpea puree with the chicory; if you wish you also can serve with Oven-Dried Olives (this page). Drizzle everything generously with fruity green olive oil, preferably from Puglia.
We once secretly picked olives in Puglia. We put as many as we could carry in a plastic bag. At home we pickled them and dried them in the oven. We kept at it with “regular” black, wrinkled olives and kalamata olives, inspired by oven-dried olives from the country estate and organic farm La Vialla in Tuscany. When they dry olives in large quantities, the aroma fills the countryside.
Oven-Dried Olives
With garlic, bay leaf, and orange
SERVES 4 TO 6
1¼ cups (200 g) black Moroccan wrinkled olives
1¼ cups (200 g) pink kalamata olives
3 cloves garlic
Zest of 1 orange
4 fresh bay leaves
3 cups (720 ml) olive oil
• Preheat the oven to 122°F (50°C). Dab the olives dry with a paper towel. Chop the garlic into thin slices (if present, remove the green kernel). With a zester, slice thin strips of the orange peel from the orange. Tear the bay leaves into small pieces.
• Combine the olives, garlic, orange zest, and bay leaves, and spread them out over a large baking sheet. Let the mixture dry in the oven for about 8 hours. Transfer to a lidded jar and cover with the olive oil. Store the olives in the pantry or keep them on the counter. The olive oil will absorb the flavors of the olives and will be delicious as a base for a dressing or drizzled over dishes.
This classic soup is a staple of Moroccan cuisine and therefore couldn’t be absent from this book. But we offer our own version, with cumin, celery oil, and small poached quail eggs. Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients—the preparation is very simple.
Harira
With cumin, celery oil, and poached quail eggs
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 (14-ounce / 400-g) can peeled tomatoes
1 (6-ounce / 170-g) can tomato paste
3 onions, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, coarsely chopped
¾-inch (2-cm) piece ginger, peeled
1 bunch celery leaves (keep a few sprigs separate)
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
1 bunch cilantro
4 tablespoons (36 g) Ras el Hanout (this page)
4 tablespoons (36 g) cinnamon
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon fenugreek
2 tablespoons ground ginger
Mild olive oil
10½ ounces (300 g) chickpeas (soaked overnight, see this page)
1 small butternut squash
5¼ ounces (150 g) brown lentils (see this page)
Scant ½ cup (50 g) all-purpose flour
12 quail eggs
Vinegar, for poaching, optional
Fruity green olive oil
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• Put the peeled tomatoes, tomato paste, onions, garlic, ginger, celery, parsley, cilantro, ras el hanout, cinnamon, cumin, fenugreek, and ginger in a large soup pot, add 4½ cups (1 L) water and a generous splash of mild olive oil, and puree with a hand blender until smooth. Add the soaked chickpeas and bring to a boil. Let the soup boil gently for about 30 minutes.
• Meanwhile, peel the squash, remove the seeds, and chop in small chunks. Add the squash cubes and lentils to the soup and gently boil for another 30 minutes, or until the chickpeas are tender. Mix the flour with ¾ cup (180 ml) water, stir in the soup, and let simmer for a few minutes.
• Meanwhile, poach the quail eggs. In a wide, shallow pan, bring water to a boil and add a dash of vinegar, if desired. Break each egg in its own cup. Create a whirl in the water with a spoon and let the eggs slide in, three at a time at most. Poach until softly set, about 3 minutes. Spoon the eggs out of the water with a skimmer and let them drain on a plate.
• With a hand blender, puree the remaining sprigs of celery with the fruity green olive oil, cumin seeds, and 1 teaspoon salt flakes.
• Divide the soup into large bowls, slide a few poached eggs in each bowl, and drizzle with the cumin-celery oil. This soup is an elegant starter, but with some Moroccan bread it’s also delicious as a main course. It can be the perfect way to break the fast during Ramadan.
According to oral tradition, it used to be possible to walk from Libya to Morocco under the shade of olive trees.
The idea for this recipe came from the walnut cake made by Nadia’s mother, Fadila, and the carob cake made by the restaurant Tawlet in Beirut. The sweet ras el hanout makes it wonderfully fragrant and the olive oil creates a soft, smooth texture. Carob powder is made from the pods of the carob tree. This tree is found everywhere in Mediterranean countries and the powder is used as a sweet paste. The taste is vaguely reminiscent of cacao. Look for carob molasses in Middle Eastern groceries or order it online.
Olive Oil Cake
With carob, pine nuts, and sweet ras el hanout
SERVES 4 TO 6
8 ounces (250 g) pine nuts
6 large eggs
¾ cup (180 ml) carob molasses, or date syrup
¾ cup (180 ml) fruity green olive oil, plus some extra for greasing the pan
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour, sifted, plus some extra for dusting the pan
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 tablespoons sweet ras el hanout (see this page)
Dried rose petals
OPTIONAL
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
• Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Oil and flour a 10-inch (25-cm) cake pan, preferably springform. Finely grind the pine nuts. With a hand blender or whisk, beat the eggs with the carob molasses and the oil (if you have a sweet tooth, you can add the light brown sugar) until thick and creamy, about 10 minutes. With a whisk, beat in the pine nuts. Then bit by bit, sift in the flour, the baking powder and the sweet ras el hanout (if there are any large bits of spice left in the sieve, discard them); whip it as quickly as possible into the egg mixture.
• Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake the cake for 45 to 50 minutes in the middle of the oven, until a toothpick or cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean and dry.
• Let the cake cool in the pan for a few minutes, then remove to a cake rack or plate and let cool completely. Before serving, sprinkle with some sweet ras el hanout and dried rose petals. Lovely with Arabic or Turkish coffee.
This cauliflower couscous was once concocted in the city of Batroun, Lebanon, from the only ingredients on hand: cauliflower, delicious Batrouni lemons, and the famous long Lebanese pine nuts. Cauliflower couscous was once featured in delicious magazine, and we have given it a new twist because we just couldn’t resist. This couscous has lots of parsley and orange zest.
Green Cauliflower Couscous
With citrus zest and pine nuts
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 large cauliflower
2 bunches flat-leaf parsley
1 lemon
1 orange
3¼ ounces (75 g) pine nuts
Mild olive oil
Fruity green olive oil
• Quarter the cauliflower and grate the chunks with a fine grater into a fine couscous-like texture. Chop the parsley very fine. Grate the lemon and orange zest, then squeeze the lemon and orange for their juice; set the juice aside. Mix the chopped parsley and grated citrus zest with the cauliflower couscous.
• In a small frying pan, sauté the pine nuts in a small amount of mild olive oil until golden brown. Drain the nuts on a paper towel and chop them once they’ve cooled.
• Season the cauliflower with the lemon and orange juice, salt, and plenty of fruity green olive oil. Mix in the pine nuts just before serving.