Table of Contents

Part 1.

COLLECTING AND PRESERVING.

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL-PAGE PLATES.

		FACING
I.	Head of Royal Bengal Tiger. (Frontispiece.)	PAGE
II.	Two Pages from an Old Field Note-book (Double Plate),	22
III.	Measurements of a Large Mammal,	38
IV.	How to Cut Open and Mount a Fish,	76
V.	Paring Down a Large Mammal Skin,	104
VI.	Interior Mechanism of a Half-mounted Wolf,	132
VII.	Manikin for Bengal Tiger: First Stage,	142
VIII.	Manikin for Bengal Tiger: Completed,	148
IX.	Manikin for Male American Bison: Half Finished,	152
X.	Manikin for American Bison: Completed,	156
XI.	Head of Prong-horn Antelope,	168
XII.	Workshop of a Bird Taxidermist,	182
XIII.	Mounted Bird, with Interior Structure Exposed,	192
XIV.	Mounting an Alligator: Last Stage,	206
XV.	American Lobster,	217
XVI.	Specimens of Ornamental Taxidermy (Double Plate),	222
XVII.	A Fight in the Tree-tops,	231
XVIII.	Group of Coyotes,	235
XIX.	Group of American Bison (Double Plate),	246
XX.	A Ligamentary Skeleton, Mounted and Drying,	288
XXI.	Skeleton of an American Bison,	298
	{ Fig. 1.—Beating the Bush,	320
XXII.	{ Fig. 2.—A Successful Stroke,	320
	{ Fig. 1.—Bottling a Skipper,	326
XXIII.	{ Fig. 2.—Japanese Porter with Collecting Boxes,	326

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TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.

PART I.

COLLECTING AND PRESERVING.

FIG.	PAGE
1. The Best Knives for a Collector or Taxidermist,	15
2. Squirrel partly Skinned	27
3. Skinning a Squirrel's Head,	28
4. A Model Mammal Skin,	34
5. Another Form of Mammal Skin,	35
6. Opening Cuts on a Large Mammal,	40
7. Opening Cuts at Back of Prong-horn Antelope's Head,	41
8. A Well-made Dry Deer-Skin,	43
9. Foot of an Orang-Utan,	44
10. Names of the External Parts of a Bird,	47
11. First Steps in Skinning a Bird,	50
12. Bird Skin, Wrong Side Out,	51
13. The Bird Skin in Position,	53
14. The Skin Half Wrapped,	54
15. Spreading the Tail,	55
16. The Skin fully Wrapped,	55
17. A Perfect Bird Skin,	56
18. How to Shape a Heron Skin,	60
19. How to Open a Turtle,	69
20. Agassiz Tank, for Alcoholics,	73
21. Bird Nest, in situ,	92
22. Wire Standard for Nests,	93
23. Nest on Wire Standard, with Labels,	94

PART II.

TAXIDERMY.

FIG.	PAGE
24. Skin Scrapers, about One-fourth Actual Size,	103
25. Leg Making and Wiring,	117
26 Wiring Together,	119
26a. The Legs Wired Together,	121
27. The Finished Specimen,	124
28. Author's Method of Mounting Bats on Glass,	128
29. Artificial Skeleton for Hand of an Orang-Utan,	131
30. Fillers of Various Kinds,	133
31. An Iron Square,	136
32. Leg Irons of an American Bison,	144
33. Skinning a Deer's Ear,	161
34. The Ear Half-Skinned,	161
35. Skinning Down the Inside,	162
36. The Cartilage Out,	162
37. Internal Mechanism of a Deer's Head,	164
38. Complete Manikin for a Deer's Head,	165
39. Modeling Tools of Wood,	173
40. Modeling Tools of Wood,	173
41. Modeling Tools of Wood,	173
42. Steel Modeling Tool,	174
43. Steel Modeling Tool,	174
44. Steel Modeling Tool,	174
45. Side View of Tiger's Tongue,	175
46. End View of Tiger's Tongue,	175
47. Top View of Tiger's Tongue,	175
48. Wiring a Bird's Leg,	184
49. Cross-Section of Artificial Body,	185
50. The Finished Body and Neck,	185
51. How the Leg Wires are Inserted and Clinched,	186
52. The Winding of the Bird,	189
53. Cast of the Neck and Windpipe of a Heron,	195
54. Method of Mounting Alcoholic Reptiles,	203
55. Medallion of Yellow Pike,	213
56. Cross Section,	213
57. Wall Case of Birds,	223
58. Wood Duck,	232

PART III.

MAKING CASTS.

FIG.	PAGE
59. Beginning to Make a Piece Mould,	260
60. Second Step in Making a Piece Mould,	261
61. Last Step in Making a Piece Mould,	262
62. The Finished Mould,	262
63. The Beginning of a Waste Mould,	263
64. Second Step in Making a Waste Mould,	264
65. Chiseling Off the Waste Mould,	265

PART IV.

OSTEOLOGY.

FIG.	PAGE
66. Rough Skeleton of a Small Animal,	274
67. Rough Skeleton of a Bird,	277
68. Steel Bone-Scrapers,	286
69. Skeleton of a Bat, as Exhibited,	291
70. Skeleton of a Bird, Mounted and Drying,	292
71. Wiring a Skeleton Wing,	293
72. Skeleton of a Turtle,	294
73. The Sacrum and Spinal Rod,	298
74. Attachment of Ribs to a Vertebra,	298
75. Middle Joint of the Hind Leg: Side View,	300
76. Middle Joint of Hind Leg: Rear View,	301
77. Bones of the Foot: Side View,	301
78. Bones of the Foot: Rear View,	301
79. The Knee-Joint,	302
80. Front View of Knee-Joint,	302
81. Front View of Elbow-Joint,	302

PART V.

THE COLLECTION AND PRESERVATION OF INSECTS.

FIG.	PAGE
82. Apparatus for Inflating Larvæ,	314
83. Drying Oven,	315
84. Drying Oven for Larva Skin (After Riley),	315
85. Wire Bent into Shape for Mounting Larva (After Riley),	316
86. Breeding Cage (After Riley),	317
87. Breeding Cage,	318
88. Net-frame (After Riley),	320
89. Net-head, for Removable Frame (After Riley),	321
90. Folding Net (After Riley),	321
91. Collecting Jar,	322
92. Perforated Paper Disc for Jar,	322
93. Method of Pinching a Butterfly,	325
94. Manner of Folding Paper Envelope,	328
95. Butterfly in Envelope,	328
96. Double Mount,	330
97. Frame for Mounting Beetles,	330
98. Setting-board,	331
99. Setting-board (After Riley),	331
100. Setting-block,	331
101. Setting-block, with Butterfly,	331
102. Setting-Needle,	332
103. Box for Receiving Setting-boards,	333
104. Shingling Specimens,	334

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TAXIDERMY AND ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTING.

PART I.—COLLECTING AND PRESERVING.

Eternal vigilance is the price of a collection.

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CHAPTER I.

THE WORKER AND THE WORK TO BE DONE.

The need of thoroughly skilled collectors is increasing every hour; and right here let me say to the young naturalist athirst for travel and adventure, There is no other way in which you can so easily find a way to gratify your heart's desire as by becoming a skilful collector.

The most important vertebrate forms are being rapidly swept off the face of the earth by firearms, traps, and other engines of destruction. In five years' time—perhaps in three—there will not be a wild buffalo left in this country outside of protected limits. There are less than one hundred even now—and yet how very few of our museums have good specimens of this most interesting and conspicuous native species.

The rhytina, the Californian elephant seal, the great auk, and the Labrador duck have already been exterminated. For many years the West Indian seal was regarded as wholly extinct, but a small colony has lately been discovered by Mr. Henry L. Ward on a remote islet in the Gulf of Mexico. The walrus, the manatee, the moose, mountain goat, antelope, mountain sheep, the sea otter, the beaver, elk, and mule deer are all going fast, and by the time the museum-builders of the world awake to the necessity of securing good specimens of all these it may be too late to find them.

Even in South Africa, where big game once existed in countless thousands, nothing remains of the larger species save a few insignificant springboks, and no game worth mentioning can be found nearer than the Limpopo Valley, eight hundred miles north of the Cape!

Now is the time to collect. A little later it will cost a great deal more, and the collector will get a great deal less. Sportsmen, pot-hunters, and breech-loading firearms are increasing in all parts of the world much faster than the game to be shot, and it is my firm belief that the time will come when the majority of the vertebrate species now inhabiting the earth in a wild state will be either totally exterminated, or exist only under protection.

But do not launch out as a collector until you know how to collect. The observance of this principle would have saved the useless slaughter of tens of thousands of living creatures, and prevented the accumulation of tons upon tons of useless rubbish in the zoological museums of the world. It costs just as much to collect and care for scientific rubbish as it would to do the same by an equal number of scientific treasures. Between fool collectors on one hand, and inartistic taxidermists on the other, the great majority of the world's zoological museums have been filled with objects that are anything but attractive; and for this state of affairs the collectors are more to blame than the taxidermists.

Bad work in collecting is, in nine cases out of ten, due to one of two causes—ignorance or laziness. By some curious process of reasoning, many really intelligent men conclude that they can go into the field and collect successfully without having learned a single thing about methods, or asked a word of advice from a competent instructor. Many seem to think that the only thing required is main strength, and that even that may be exerted by proxy. Even now, men who have travelled and written books go to South America and dry all their skins in the sun—after having carefully removed all the leg bones—and their small skeletons they boil!

Some of the worst mammal skins I ever saw were made by a professor of natural history, who actually managed to do nearly everything as it should not have been done. And yet, collecting all kinds of animal specimens, in all climates, is perfectly simple to any one who has enough enterprise to inform himself of the most reliable methods, and put them in practice.

I will confess I feel very deeply on this point, for I have toiled, needlessly, unnumbered hours, and days too, in overcoming, as far as possible, the inexcusable blunders of collectors. I have seen thousands of dollars wasted in this way that could have been saved by good work in the field. It is easier to mount two good skins within five per cent of perfection than to mount one poor one not nearly so well. Let me advise the directors of all scientific museums, institutions of learning, and patrons of natural history generally, when appealed to by an enthusiastic collector for funds with which to go abroad and collect an untold amount of priceless specimens, in every case withhold your aid until the would-be collector demonstrates conclusively that he has learned how to collect. If he has not wit enough and grit enough to acquire ability, and then prove property, he is not fit to send anywhere, save back to the bosom of his family.

These are the qualities which are required to make a first-class collector: He must have a fair general knowledge of zoology, especially the vertebrates. He must be a good shot, a successful hunter, and capable of great physical endurance. Then he must be a neat and skilful operator with the knife, and conscientious in the details of his work, down to the smallest particulars, for without this quality his specimens will always be faulty and disappointing. In addition to all these requirements he must be a man of tireless energy, incapable of going to bed so long as there are birds to be skinned, and who, whenever a doubt arises in his mind in regard to the necessity of more work on a specimen will always give the specimen the benefit of the doubt.

I strongly advise every one who becomes a collector to learn to sketch from nature. No matter whether you have any artistic ability or not, if you are determined about it, you can learn to make pencil sketches of rare specimens in the field, and of native houses, costumes, weapons, etc., and remarkable natural objects of all kinds, which, even though crude and inartistic in finish, may be of permanent value to the scientific world. The camera and dry plate are of great value, but commend me to the pencil and sketch-book that "sticketh closer than a brother," and that never fail you on account of weather, weight, or accidents. Therefore I say, sketch; sketch poorly if you cannot sketch well, but above all, sketch.

The moment you make up your mind to go on a collecting trip, even if be only into the next county, read everything you can get hold of which will tell you aught about the natural history of the country you are to visit. Ask what has been written, search library catalogues for titles of books, then get all you can, and read all you get. Only the churl will refuse to lend you a book you cannot afford to buy. Read all about the physical geography, geology, climate, inhabitants, fauna and flora, for all these will have a direct bearing on your work. If you are going to unexplored territory, about which nothing has been written, then "read up" on the adjacent countries, for even that will be very useful information.

Guides and Companions.—No matter where you go, you will be obliged to have one or more companions, who know the country, to act as guides and general assistants. It may be that you can find a single person combining the necessary qualities of a guide and interpreter with those of a boatman, a teamster, or porter. The expense of such assistants must be counted upon from the very first. It may be stated as a general rule that in the tropics the services of natives can be had cheaply; while those of Europeans are generally dear in comparison with what they do.

Clothing and Food.—These subjects I propose to leave entirely alone. They make excellent "padding" for a work of this kind when there is a lack of really useful information with which to fill up; but every man feeds and clothes himself according to the dictates of his temperament, his purse, or his own sweet will. Whether his way is the best or the worst, he will still have food and clothes more or less suitable to his needs, and time spent in advising him what to wear and to eat is time wasted. These questions are generally controlled by the locality and circumstances.

Preservation of Health.—There are certain hygienic principles which apply all the world over, and since their observance becomes in the tropics a question of life and death, I will record them. Their observance has preserved my health intact in unwholesome jungles in a way that I consider nothing short of wonderful.

Never sleep on the ground in the wet portions of the tropics when possible to avoid it, but keep above the poisonous miasmatic vapors that lie close to the earth.

Boil water before drinking it, if it is thought to be bad, and avoid stagnant water at all times.

Drink no spirits whatever except when really sick or debilitated, nor wine, nor other alcoholic beverages. Avoid brandy, whiskey, and rum as you would the plague.

Eat no unripe fruit, and with moderation of even ripe fruits, excepting bananas, which are harmless and most excellent food.

Avoid eating large quantities of meat, but give the preference to rice, and farinaceous foods generally.

Wear light flannel shirts, and at all hazards keep the head and nape of the neck well shielded from the sun. Pith helmets are best.

After getting wet, do not sit down in the hot sun with your wet clothes on, but if you must remain in the sun, keep moving.

By means of rubber clothing, or "ponchos," keep from getting wet whenever you can.

On coming into camp with wet garments, do not sit down in them to rest, but change immediately to dry clothing and footgear. The strict observance of this rule will save many an attack of fever.

Medicines.—Every traveller or collector who goes beyond the ready reach of doctors (and for that matter also every family living in the country) should have a small box filled with certain medicines and simple appliances as a resort in all cases of emergency. Very often a deal of mischief can be prevented by having the proper remedy at hand and ready for immediate application. Who has not seen great suffering endured for the lack of a simple remedy costing only a few cents? No matter where I go in the field, or how much luggage I am impeded with, I always carry with me a small, square, japanned tin box (10 inches long, 7 inches wide, and 4 inches deep) which contains the following:

1 roll silk court-plaster (about 1 yard).	1 bottle Collis Browne's chlorodyne.
6 curved surgeon's needles and silk thread.	1/2 ounce quinine.
4 ounces spirits of turpentine.	1 package Epsom salts.
4 ounces tincture of arnica.	1 package senna leaves.
2 ounces syrup of ipecac.	1 package carbonate of soda.
1 ounce paregoric.	2-ounce bottle of Squibb's diarrhoea mixture.
1 ounce ammonia.	1 box Beecham's pills.
2 ounces castor oil.	1 small measuring-glass.
1 pint lime-water and linseed oil.	1 piece of small rubber tube, a foot long.
1 pint best brandy.	12 doses of tartar emetic.

The above makes a formidable showing, but the whole stock costs only about three dollars and fifty cents, and the box, with lock and key, about one dollar more. I have lately added to this outfit a most valuable and helpful little book, entitled "Till the Doctor Comes," by George H. Hope (G.P. Putnam's Sons, New York), which to any traveller or country dweller is worth twice its weight in gold. Fortunately, however, it costs only fifty cents, and no one need be without it.

While a traveller or hunter should never drink brandy or whiskey as a beverage, it is a most excellent thing to have in many cases of sickness or accident, when a powerful stimulant is necessary. Above all things, however, which go farthest toward preserving the life of the traveller against diseases and death by accident, and which every naturalist especially should take with him wherever he goes, are habits of strict temperance. In the tropics nothing is so deadly as the drinking habit, for it speedily paves the way to various kinds of disease which are always charged to the account of "the accursed climate." If a temperate man falls ill or meets with an accident, his system responds so readily to remedies and moderate stimulants that his chances for recovery are a hundred per cent better than those of the man whose constitution has been undermined by strong drink.

There are plenty of men who will say that in the tropics a little liquor is necessary, "a good thing," etc.; but let me tell you it is no such thing, and if necessary I could pile up a mountain of evidence to prove it. The records show most conclusively that it is the men who totally abstain from the use of spirits as a beverage who last longest, have the least sickness, and do the most and best work. As a general rule, an energetic brandy-drinker in the jungle is not worth his salt, and as a companion in a serious undertaking, is not even to be regarded as a possible candidate.

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CHAPTER II.

OUTFITS, AND HINTS ON HUNTING.

In making up an outfit with which to work on specimens in the field, away from civilization perhaps, you must first decide definitely upon the line of work you intend to do, for upon this the extent and character of your outfit must depend. The requirements to be met are economy of space, weight, and labor, with no necessary article lacking. The mere item of keeping one's tools in order, and always accessible, is much more important than it would at first seem to be. There must be no confusion, and not a single article must get lost. Good tools, and plenty of them, in good working order, go a great way toward the production of faultless specimens, having the highest possible value.

I think I may say without boasting that on my third collecting trip abroad (to the East Indies) my outfit came as near perfection in size and arrangement as can ever be reached without far greater expense than that entailed. I was obliged to pack and unpack the whole of it at least fifty times, but its arrangement was so systematic and compact that the complete packing up never required more than fifteen minutes, and I could go to it in the dark and find any article desired, even to a needle and thread.

The whole arrangement was very simple. To start with, the entire outfit of firearms, ammunition, tools, hunting-gear, and a good stock of preservatives was contained in an iron-bound black walnut chest about the size of a carpenter's tool-chest.

To keep my loading implements and ammunition in order, I had an ammunition-box of walnut, 14-1/2 inches long, 12-1/2 wide, and 4-1/2 deep, outside measurements, divided inside into five compartments, which held and kept in order all the appendages belonging to my three guns, and enough ammunition to last a month for ordinary shooting.

Another small box, made of ash, one-quarter of an inch thick, and divided into four compartments, contained an assortment of knives, labels, and small tools (see list below), and was in every way multum in parvo. Both these boxes had their places in the chest, and my guns, each in its own box-case, were provided for in the same receptacle. I have had made for collectors going out from the National Museum nearly a dozen tool-boxes in exact duplication of the original mentioned above, and I can confidently recommend both it and the ammunition-box as serving their purposes most satisfactorily.

Since my outfit for the East Indies proved very satisfactory, and with one or two additions is precisely what I should take were I to go again on a similar expedition, I give below a full list of its contents. The additions I should make would be a Winchester 7-shot repeating rifle, calibre 45-75, with the necessary ammunition, a double-barrelled breech-loading gun, No. 12, and possibly a wooden tank 2 feet × 2 feet × 2 feet, with a screw top, for the preservation of mammal skins in a salt and alum bath. This last addition is rendered necessary by the fact that I have adopted a different method of preserving skins from that I had followed up to that time. Instead of drying all skins as I did then, I now preserve the majority of them in a wet state, and keep them so, except such as are desired as skins for study, and not for mounting. The apparatus necessary for collecting insects will be described in the section devoted to work of that class.

Outfit for General Collecting,

Vertebrates and Invertebrates, both Large and Small, Dry and in Spirits, and on a Large Scale.

1 Agassiz tank (copper), in wooden box, for alcoholics.
1 chest of black walnut, iron-bound, to contain all the articles enumerated below:
1 Maynard rifle, two barrels, calibre 40,	40 pounds shot, assorted sizes.
and 45-85.	10 pounds Maynard bullets.
1 double-barrelled breech-loading smooth-bore 1,000 Berdan primers.
gun, No. 10, in case ($30).	12 pounds Orange ducking powder.
1 Maynard shot-gun, No. 16.	30 pounds arsenical soap.
1 Smith & Wesson revolver, cal. 32.	15 pounds dry arsenic.
1 cartridge-belt and cartridge-bag.	1 dozen large skinning-knives.
1 dozen small skinning-knives.	2 pairs scissors.
6 scalpels.	1 brain hook.
2 claw hatchets.	1 pair long forceps.
1 saw.	1 pair short forceps.
1 large skin scraper.	1 pair cutting-pliers.
1 geological hammer.	1 pair flat pliers.
1 bull's-eye lantern.	2 sets skeleton-scrapers.
1 A No. 1 field-glass.	1 small skin scraper.
1 compass.	1 flat file.
2 brushes for arsenical soap.	2 three-cornered files.
1 blow-pipe and set of egg-drills.	1 cold chisel.
1 hydrometer and test-glass.	2 awls.
1 thermometer.	1 4-inch saw (for turtles).
2 pairs hunting-shoes.	1 tape measure.
2 rubber blankets.	1 2-foot rule.
1 double woollen blanket.	1 ivory thimble.
1 Ashanti hammock.	1 oil-stone.
3,000 labels, three sizes.	1 spool thread.
1 tool-box, size 7 × 13 × 3 inches, to contain the following: 2 dozen labels.
4 skinning-knives.	3 papers glover's needles.

With this outfit I collected, in two years, more than $15,000 worth of salable skins, rough skeletons and skulls of mammals, many of which were very large; birds, reptiles, and fishes, especially the large and important species; also fishes and fish skins in alcohol and brine; crustaceans, shells, star-fishes, corals, and a few insects. In not a single case did I ever fail to collect a desired specimen through lack of implements and preservatives with which to care for it, and only three or four specimens spoiled on my hands in course of preservation. One of these was an orang skin, the last one I took, which spoiled because I had to pack it up and travel with it without giving it even one day's drying; and the others were skins which spoiled while I was on my back with jungle fever.

The outfit listed above is of such a nature that for a trip across Africa, South America, or even a much shorter distance on foot or horseback, away from rivers and wagon-roads, it would be difficult to take the whole of it. But then, on some expeditions, for example, such as are made through Darkest Africa, the travellers are generally glad to get through with their lives, to say nothing of more cumbersome luggage, and very little collecting is done. In nine cases out of ten, however, it is advisable to take along a good outfit, even though there be three or four boxes of it, for, except in such journeys as those mentioned above, there will always be a way to get it along. It will cost a few dollars for freight, and some trouble in management; but if you are a good collector, and mean business, you will not mind that in the least. Where there's a will there's locomotion; and to collect well, or even at all, one must have something to collect with. It is an expensive and exceedingly laborious business at best, so don't go expecting to have your "baggage checked through to destination, free of charge."

But there are a great many of my readers who, while they may never want to go off into a howling wilderness, might greatly enjoy collecting on such trips as they do take. Then, again, there are sportsmen and travellers who will willingly carry into good game districts a book of instructions, and enough tools to enable them successfully to remove and preserve the skins of valuable trophies of the chase, and other specimens which should be kept on account of their scientific value or their beauty. To meet the requirements of both the amateur and the sportsman I recommend:

The Traveller's Handy Outfit,

For a Collector of Mammals, Heads, Trophies, etc., and also Birds.

Firearms, as you please.

A tool-box of 1/4 inch ash, size 7 × 13 × 3 inches, containing the following:

With the addition of 10 large skinning knives, this was the identical outfit I took with me on two collecting trips to Montana, during which we skinned and skeletonized 24 buffaloes, about 20 antelope, 10 deer, 9 coyotes, and a goodly number of birds and small mammals.

The points in favor of this outfit are its cheapness, compactness, portability, and great general utility. It can be carried in a knapsack behind a saddle on an overland journey, and to an explorer it is useful in a hundred ways besides those for which it is specially intended.

Firearms.—The gun question is a good deal like the wife question—every man prefers to choose for himself, and advice is chiefly superfluous. Nevertheless, to those who have as yet no preferences, I will briefly state mine, and the reasons for them.

If I could have but one weapon, I should choose the Maynard rifle, calibre 40, with extra long cartridge, and a No. 12 shot-barrel fitting to the same stock, and interchangeable in less than fifteen seconds of time. The rifle is light and handy; it hits hard, and is as true as steel ever gets to be. It will hit every time precisely where you hold it. Its construction is so simple it seldom breaks or gets out of order, the brass shells never wear out, and when loaded are about as impervious to water as marine torpedoes. Should you go under water—rifle, cartridges, and all—you have only to "bob up serenely," and go on firing as if nothing had happened.

By the addition of a shot-barrel, at a very slight expense, you have, in reality, two good breech-loading weapons that will serve you well for general purposes.

For ordinary large game I also prefer the Maynard rifle, but of a heavier calibre than the above. Calibre 45 is the best size, taking the U.M.C. Co.'s Bullard cartridges loaded with 85 grains of powder and 295 grains of lead. These with the Maynard make a beautiful combination. It carries point-blank up to 170 yards, if not even 200; the ball has great accuracy and penetration, with a very low trajectory, and very little recoil. A heavier bullet means a hearty kick and loss of accuracy, and one of 500 grains of lead means occasional blood at your end of the gun, and a black and blue shoulder.

For such great beasts as the elephant, rhinoceros, and hippopotamus, the choice must lie between a double 8-bore rifle, and the No. 8 smooth-bore. For my part, I would rather hunt my elephants with such a gun as I used on them in India, a No. 8 smooth-bore, double-barrelled, which, though weighing less than 10 pounds, never kicked seriously, even with enough powder (6 drachms) to send a zinc bullet through an elephant's skull and brain, and out on the other side. With such a weapon there will be no need to run after an animal, nor run away from it either, after you get one fair shot at it.[1]

For hunting large birds and small mammals a No. 10 shot-gun is the best; but if you are specially interested in birds and care little for mammals, a No. 12 breech-loader with top-snap action will be preferable. For my purposes, however, my No. 10 double Werner and No. 16 Maynard always worked beautifully together, and I think these two sizes afford the best combination a collector can find. Being very strongly built, I often loaded my No. 10 with a single ball, and bagged many a fine Indian bison in that way.

I always used heavy brass shells with all my shot-guns, for the following reason: I could not spare room to carry paper shells, the rains I encountered would have spoiled too many of them, and away from home they were too expensive a luxury for me to afford. The brass shells are expensive to start with, but they last forever, or until they are lost.

Hints on Hunting.—The duty of a naturalist to his specimen begins when he levels his gun at it in the field.

Do not shoot a specimen to pieces, or mutilate it beyond recognition by its own mother.

Study the moral principles of your guns, find out exactly what they will do with what you put into them, and then don't shoot your specimens too much. What is a tiger worth with the top of his head blown off, or a deer with a great hole torn in his side by an explosive bullet?

Three vital principles to be observed in hunting specimens are the following: See everything ahead, and allow nothing to see you. Shoot to kill, but shoot so as to get your specimen with the least possible mutilation. A squirrel shot with a rifle is usually unfit for a specimen, and a bird with its legs shot to pieces, mandibles shot off, and half its tail feathers torn to pieces is about the same as no bird at all, unless it happens to be a rare one. In using a rifle, get as close to your game as you can (unless it be a tiger or bear!), so as to be sure of getting it. With the shot-gun, get as far away as you dare, so as to get no more shot into your bird than is necessary to kill it.

It is a disgrace for a collector to shoot a bird to pieces and be obliged to throw it away.

I append a showing of what I use in collecting, according to circumstances. It is hardly likely that any two collectors in the world agree on these points, therefore I do not expect that these tables will suit the old hands. I put them forth as mere suggestions to beginners.

Recommendations in Regard to Hunting with the Rifle.

Animals to kill.	Weapon to use.	Charge of	Weight of	Best
		powder.	bullet.	distance.
Elephant	Smooth-bore,	6 drs.	Spherical,	30 yds.
	No. 8.		pure zinc.
Tiger, bear, elk, deer, sheep, seals,
large crocodiles	Maynard, 45.	85 grs.	295 grs.	75 "
Apes, monkeys, small ruminants,
and small carnivora	Maynard, 40.	60 "	200 "	50 "

Recommendations in Regard to Hunting with the Shot-gun.

Animals to kill.	Weapon to use.	Charge of	Charge of shot.
		powder.
Deer	No. 10.	6 drs.	20, No. 8 buckshot.
Fox	" 10.	5 "	1-1/2 oz., No. 00.
Woodchuck	" 10.	3 "	1-1/4 " " 2.
Squirrel	" 12.	3 "	1-1/2 " " 6.
Chipmunk	" 16.	2 "	1 " " 10.
		Eagle Duck
		Powder.
Eagle, crane, vulture	" 10 or 12.	5 drs.	1-1/2 " Double 00.
Turkey buzzard	" 10 or 12.	4 "	1-1/4 " No. 4.
Crow	" 12.	3 "	1-1/4 " " 6.
Quail	" 12.	3 "	1-1/2 " " 8.
Robin	" 12.	2-1/2 drs.	1 " " 10.
Warbler	" 16.	2-1/2 "	1 " " 12.
Humming-bird	" 16, or	2 "	1 oz. dust shot.
	Auxiliary, 22.[2]

Of course it would be easy to recommend a large assortment of different weapons for different purposes, but when it comes to providing an outfit of firearms, I must say I never cared to take care of more than three or four weapons, and I doubt if the average amateur will feel disposed to maintain a small arsenal. In preparing the above tables I have limited the weapons to those I have actually used. For my use, the following constitutes a model collector's outfit of firearms for all purposes in all countries. It is cheap, but first class, not cumbersome, easily cared for in all climates, and equal to every occasion that can arise:

1 No. 8 double breech-loading smooth-bore, and

1 Auxiliary barrel, No. 22, for very small birds (price, $12).

1 Calibre 45-85 Maynard rifle, 1 calibre 40-60 rifle-barrel, and 1 No. 16 shot-barrel, all to fit interchangeably on the same stock. A smaller rifle-barrel might also be added, but it is not really necessary.

1 Calibre 45-75 7-shot Winchester.

1 No. 12 breech-loading shot-gun.

The Winchester is useful for rapid firing at short range, but the Maynard is the weapon to depend upon for perfect accuracy at all ranges.

Knives.—For general use the best knife for the collector or taxidermist is a steel-handled cartilage-knife, as shown in Fig. 1, B. It costs seventy-five cents. There are two kinds of cartilage-knives, but the one shown has the best-shaped blade.

For heavier work the best knife I have ever used or seen is the so-called "killing-knife," No. 01512, as shown in Fig. 1, A, made by John Russell, Green River Works, Turner's Falls, Mass., the retail price of which is only seventy-five cents. Had I designed it myself, especially for collectors' use, I could not have done better. The shape of the blade, the thickness of it, and the shape of the handle are all perfect. If you cannot procure one of these knives, then buy a good butcher-knife, and grind the blade down to this shape. A knife with a straight edge is not fit to use, for many reasons.

Always keep a good coarse (water) whetstone for large knives, and a Wichita oil-stone and oil for your finer knives, and the final touches to your large ones.

Seasons for Collecting.—Mammals.—In the temperate zone never take fur-bearing or game animals before September 1st, or later than February 1st, if possible to avoid it. On most of these mammals the pelage is the finest during November and December. It is then at its maximum length, very clean and well dressed, and also at its brightest color. The ruminants begin to shed in May (the American bison as early as March), and by July the new hair upon them is only about half an inch long, but very fine and sleek. At that time it does not have its natural color. In our country, September, October, and November are the months par excellence for the taking of mammals, especially the large species, for after December 1st the storms and snows of winter render their haunts untenable for the hunter, unless he builds a cabin in the woods and makes a winter of it. The haunts of the mountain sheep and goat must be abandoned by December 1st, at the latest, on account of the snow. The best time to take families of young mammals is from May to August. If taken earlier they are too young, and later they have passed their most interesting age. The smaller the species are, the quicker the young mature, and in collecting all such, the naturalist must be on the keen lookout to take them at the precise time they reach the most interesting size and age.

Birds.—In the temperate zone the best months for bird collecting are March, April, May, June, September, October, and November; but since the study of migration depends upon collections and observations made all the year round, there is really no time to begin collecting, and no time to cease. At the same time the amateur will soon discover that, aside from the birds that are found only in their particular season, the greatest number of species to be obtained in the Northern United States come in the months mentioned; and, of course, in the cold half of the year they are most plentiful in the South, whither they go to escape the cold weather. In the northern regions bird-collecting naturally begins with the spring migration from the South, and is most active from that time up to the end of June. During July and August the old birds are moulting, and the young ones have immature plumage and stub tails.