storm the kettle

resetting the newfoundland table

storm the kettle

resetting the newfoundland table

elaine feore and joanne goudie

Copyright © 2016 by Elaine Feore and Joanne Goudie

Whitecap Books

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be repro-duced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. For more information contact Whitecap Books, at Suite 210, 314 West Cordova Street, Vancouver, BC, V6B 1E8 Canada.

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editor: Jordie Yow

design: Andrew Bagatella

food photography: Craig Goudie

proofreader: Patrick Geraghty

Printed in the United States of America

Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

Feore, Elaine, author

Storm the kettle : resetting the Newfoundland table / Elaine Feore, Joanne Goudie.

ISBN 978-1-77050-245-1 (paperback)

1. Cooking, Canadian—Newfoundland and Labrador style. 2. Cooking—Newfoundland and Labrador. 3. Cookbooks. I. Goudie, Joanne, author II. Title.

TX715.6.F457 2016 641.59718 C2016-900628-X

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund (CBF) for our publish-ing activities and the Province of British Columbia through the Book Publishing Tax Credit.

Nous reconnaissons l’appui financier du gouvernement du Canada et la province de la Colombie-Britannique par le Book Publishing Tax Credit.

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storm the kettle:

to boil water hastily in a kettle for a ‘mug up’ or a cup of tea

(Devine’s Folk Lore of Newfoundland,

compiled by P.K. Devine, 1937)

“Quick, storm the kettle! There’s a crowd coming!”

For Dermot Ryan who always believes, and makes my dream, our dream and Michael, my earliest and most enthusiastic tester. { e }

For Craig, my rock, my home, my best friend and our boys, Zach and Josh, my pride and inspiration. { j }

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1

Introduction

newfoundland is a breathtakingly beautiful island, a massive rock sitting out in the Atlantic. This land mass that we love isolates us from the rest of Canada and that has had a huge impact on how we have maintained the unique culture of our Irish, French and English ancestors. Our province is the sum of two land masses: the island portion, Newfoundland, and the mainland portion, Labrador. Within the pages of this book, we will discuss the traditions, culture and food that are known and loved by us, two women from the island part of the province.

For too many years after Confederation with Canada in 1949, Newfoundland was Canada’s poorest province. It was, and still is, common for Newfoundlanders to leave the island to search for work with the hope of making a better life for themselves and their families. But no matter how long their exile, the mantra they repeat is “home.” The pull to return home—to live or just visit—is remarkably strong.

Perhaps that’s because while we may not have been economically wealthy, we have always been rich in culture and heritage. The isolation and challenge of living in an often harsh climate created interdepen-dent and caring communities, with strong and resilient people and closely knit families. Family means home, and when Newfoundlanders think of home they also think of food.

We are a people who, for the most part, traditionally ate in our homes. There really wasn’t a restaurant scene, because very few had the money for such an extravagance. So we carried on happily with our tradition of gathering around our own tables with family and friends. On the rare occasion when we went out for a meal, the local fare consisted mostly of battered and deep fried fish, or deep fried wings and chips, topped off with dressing and gravy!

That was then. Today we have an amazing selection of first-class restaurants scattered across the island, and many of our most talented chefs have returned home, bringing with them ideas and experience garnered elsewhere. Offshore oil brought new prosperity to the province and an influx of people from around the world, and the newcomers brought their own food preferences and cultures that they continue to

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share with us. Economic prosperity also meant that Newfoundlanders had the money to travel and enjoy the flavours of the countries they visited. These factors transformed our native cuisine with new expecta-tions of the food we find at home, changing attitudes not only towards eating out but also what we cook in our own kitchens.

Newfoundlanders derive immense joy from feeding the people we love, but really, we will feed anybody! We’ll haul you in from the street if we have to . . . seriously, we will! We will feed you something traditional, or what we are eating now. We still make tea buns, but we also make scones, sourdough bread, soda bread and naan. We continue to forage in the woods for berries and boil up tea while doing so, but we’re just as likely to combine what we’ve found out there with chevre . . . made right here in Newfoundland. We continue to gather at the cabin on Friday night, sitting round the fire with beer or wine as we always did, but you might find us noshing on a Thai beef skewer or curried mussels in addi-tion to our own traditional moose sausage or kippered herring. We still want a feed of chips with gravy, moose stew, pan-fried cod with drawn butter, a fish stew while out in the boat and a boil up on the beach. But now we also want much more: more flavour, more variety and more taste combinations. So while we cherish our traditions and the simple, basic fare that sustained our ancestors on this island, today we celebrate as our culture and tastes evolve and expand.

The two of us owned The Blue Fish Bistro, a lovely, busy little spot in the town of Grand Falls-Windsor in the centre of the island. We created a menu that had not really existed in those parts before. As diverse as that menu was, we discovered that the nights we ran a themed menu featuring food from around the world—Russia, Spain, France or anywhere in the Mediterranean—we could book every table at two sittings any night we arranged it. We had taken a leap of faith into the restaurant business, and found ourselves embraced by locals and tourists alike. Clearly, there was a hunger for variety and exciting new menus.

In these pages you will find some recipes that will stir memories of traditional tastes, some of the frequently requested recipes from The Blue Fish Bistro and some of the recipes showcasing what we eat now, right here, at home in Newfoundland.

Enjoy!

Elaine and Joanne

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makes 1 cup (250 ml)

1 cup (250 mL) packed fresh cilantro

1 cup (250 mL) packed fresh basil

1 cup (250 mL) coarsely chopped, packed fresh chives

1 large garlic clove

2 Tbsp (30 mL) fresh lime juice

½ tsp (2 mL) salt

½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground pepper

½ cup (125 mL) olive oil

green sauce is an excellent flavour enhancer. There are dozens of different recipes using a variety of fresh herbs, but this is my favourite. It is always in my fridge and I love the way it intensifies the taste of any number of dishes. I cannot imagine getting through a weekend of enter-taining—winter or summer—without it. { e }

Combine everything but the olive oil in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse until all ingredients are combined. With the motor running slowly drizzle in the oil, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl, until herbs are finely chopped and emulsified with oil. Pour into a small mason jar and keep refrigerated. It will keep for 2 weeks in the fridge and can easily be doubled.

st. john’s farmers’ market The St. John’s Farmers’ Market operates on Saturdays from June through to the third week in December, and it is a lively spot to savour many different hot foods from around the world as well as to find fresh produce, local meats, preserves and pastries, all sitting alongside art work, crafts people and jewelry makers.

Green Sauce

Essentials • 7

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Essentials • 9

makes 1K cups (375 ml)

2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

3 cups (750 mL) grape tomatoes

2 medium shallots, diced small

1 Tbsp (15 mL) minced garlic

1 Tbsp (15 mL) balsamic vinegar

½ tsp (2 mL) salt

¼ tsp (1 mL) freshly ground pepper

this spread is not really a jam and contains no sugar. It spreads like jam, you will want to eat it like jam and yes, you may even like it on your toast. You will be very happy to make this savoury recipe and happier still to have it in the fridge. Hopefully it will become part of your weekly routine to put tomatoes in your pan and delight in the aroma. { e }

Heat olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat until oil easily coats the pan. Add tomatoes and cook until they start to break apart; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer.

When tomatoes have started to simmer add the shallots, garlic, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper. Mix all ingredients together and gently crush the tomatoes. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring once or twice, until the mixture starts to thicken, about 20 minutes.

Place mixture in a bowl and serve hot as an accompaniment to any number of dishes, or allow to cool and store in a covered container in the fridge to eat whenever you have the urge. Jam will keep for about a week.

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Essentials • 11

makes 1 cup (250 ml)

2 large onions, peeled

2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

1 Tbsp (15 mL) butter

¼ tsp (1 mL) salt

it takes some time to caramelize onions but the result is definitely worth the exercise in patience, so making them ahead of time makes perfect sense. They store well and add depth of flavour and a rich sweet-ness to dips, sauces, soups, pizza—even sandwiches. When I know I’m going to be in the kitchen for an hour or so, it takes very little extra effort to slice up some onions and get them going in the pan while I’m working on something else. { j }

Cut onions in half lengthwise and then into %-inch (3 mm) slices. Heat oil and butter in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until butter starts to sizzle. Add onions and stir to coat. Continue stirring frequently for about 5 minutes, until onions have softened but have not started to turn brown. Sprinkle with salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring every 3–5 minutes to ensure even browning. Continue cooking for 20–30 minutes, stirring frequently until onions are soft and a rich brown colour. Use immediately or cool to room temperature and store in a covered glass dish in the fridge for up to 1 week. May be frozen in an airtight container for up to 1 month. Thaw in refrigerator before using.

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louisiana spice rub

3 Tbsp (45 mL) paprika

1 Tbsp (15 mL) salt

1 Tbsp (15 mL) celery salt

1 Tbsp (15 mL) garlic powder

1 Tbsp (15 mL) onion powder

1 Tbsp (15 mL) freshly ground pepper

½ tsp (2 mL) cayenne pepper

greek spice rub

2 Tbsp (30 mL) dried oregano

2 Tbsp (30 mL) salt

1½ Tbsp (22 mL) garlic powder

1 Tbsp (15 mL) onion powder

1 Tbsp (15 mL) paprika

1 Tbsp (15 mL) dried thyme

1 Tbsp (15 mL) freshly ground pepper

dried herbs and spices, when combined, have an important part to play in developing flavours for our tables. I call these rubs and they can be used on fish, chicken, beef and pork, but also to scatter in soups, burgers and sauces, delivering just the right kick a dish might need. { e }

Mix and store covered in a small mason jar. Double or triple any of these recipes.

moroccan spice rub

1 Tbsp (15 mL) cumin

1 Tbsp (15 mL) ginger

1 Tbsp (15 mL) turmeric

1 Tbsp (15 mL) salt

1 Tbsp (15 mL) freshly ground pepper

2 tsp (10 mL) allspice

2 tsp (10 mL) cinnamon

2 tsp (10 mL) coriander

1 tsp (5 mL) cloves

½ tsp (2 mL) cayenne pepper

Essentials • 13

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Essentials • 15

makes 12 crepes

1 cup (250 mL) whole milk

¼ cup (60 mL) water

4 large eggs

5 Tbsp (75 mL) melted butter, divided

1 cup (250 mL) flour

2 tsp (10 mL) sugar

½ tsp (2 mL) salt

crepes make it to the Essentials chapter because of their versatility. Crepes are quickly transformed into appetizers, lunches, main courses and desserts. This recipe has just a little sugar and is suitable for both sweet and savoury fillings. If you have them in your fridge or freezer, you can count on a crepe to satisfy. { j }

Mix milk, water, eggs and 2 Tbsp (30 mL) melted butter in a blender or food processor until combined. In a small mixing bowl, whisk dry ingredients together and add to liquid. Blend on high speed until smooth. Refrigerate batter in a covered container for at least 1 hour or overnight.

Heat a non-stick frying pan with a 9-inch (23 cm) base on medium heat. Brush pan lightly with butter. Pour about ¼ cup (60 mL) of the batter into pan, swirling quickly to completely coat bottom of the pan. When the top of the batter is set and the edges are light brown, flip crepe and cook another 30 seconds. Transfer onto a plate. Brush pan with butter again and repeat the process. Place a sheet of parchment paper between each crepe to keep them from sticking.

Fill and serve immediately, or wrap well with plastic wrap and store in the fridge for up to 3 days. To freeze, place wrapped crepes in an airtight bag. Freeze up to 3 months. Thaw in fridge overnight before using.

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makes 1 cup (250 ml)

1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream

2 Tbsp (30 mL) buttermilk

crème fraîche vs. sour cream: the taste of crème fraîche is less tangy than sour cream and I prefer the texture. An added bonus with crème fraîche is that it does not curdle like sour cream. It is a snip to make and I always have a jar in my fridge. { e }

In a glass jar mix whipping cream and buttermilk. Cover. Place in a warm room for 12–24 hours to thicken. Refrigerate for up to 10 days.

Essentials • 17

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Essentials • 19

makes 1 cup (250 ml)

1 large egg

2 tsp (10 mL) white wine vinegar

½ tsp (2 mL) salt

½ tsp (2 mL) Keens dry mustard

1 cup (250 mL) canola oil

there is no better taste than your own mayonnaise. It’s so easy to make, and produces a perfect lightness that’s hard not to eat from the spoon. I know there are concerns with raw eggs but if you use the freshest eggs possible, and wash and dry your egg before cracking it, you lessen any contamination potential. { e }

Combine egg, vinegar, salt and dry mustard in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. While food processor is running, slowly add the oil. The mixture will look runny until you are almost finished adding the oil and then it will thicken perfectly. This will take less than 1 minute. Transfer to a covered glass jar. Refrigerate and use within 3 days.

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makes 2 single pastry crusts

2½ cups (625 mL) all-purpose flour

1 tsp (5 mL) salt

¾ cup (180 mL) cold butter, cut into ¼-inch (6 mm) cubes

¼ cup (60 mL) cold shortening, cut into ¼-inch (6 mm) cubes

1 large egg

Ice water

most cooks have a go-to pastry recipe. This one is my favourite. It uses butter for flavour, a little shortening for flakiness and egg for extra richness. I like to make several batches at a time and freeze the pastry discs so that I always have some on hand. { j }

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, combine flour and salt. Drop in butter and shortening and pulse in short bursts until the fat is coated in flour and cut into pea-sized pieces.

Crack egg into a measuring cup and beat with a fork to combine. Add enough ice water to measure L cup (80 mL). Pour liquid, a little at a time, over flour mixture, pulsing for several seconds after each addi-tion. If the dough is very crumbly when all the egg mixture has been added, sprinkle with ice water, 1 tsp (5 mL) at a time, pulsing briefly, until dough clumps together when squeezed between your fingers.

Turn out onto a work surface and gently shape dough into a ball. With a sharp knife, cut into 2 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. The dough can be frozen for up to 3 months. Thaw in the refrigerator over-night before using.

note Since shortening tends to be soft even when very cold, I put the shortening cubes in the freezer for 10 minutes before I add them to the flour mixture.

Essentials • 21

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Essentials • 23

makes 2L cups (580 ml)

1 lb (450 g) butter, softened

⅓ cup (80 mL) dry white wine, room temperature

2 Tbsp (30 mL) minced garlic

¼ tsp (1 mL) salt

⅛ tsp (0.5 mL) freshly ground pepper

¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped parsley

¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped green pepper

¼ cup (60 mL) finely chopped roasted red pepper

when we lived in Windsor, Ontario we frequently crossed the border into Detroit to eat at our favourite seafood restaurant, Joe Muer’s. This recipe is a riff on a butter they used in their dishes and will become your go-to flavour enhancer. It will change the way you think about cooking scallops, shrimp, garlic bread and even tomato sauce. We are betting this will become your own secret ingredient. { e }

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Beat the butter, wine, garlic, salt and pepper until creamy. Add the parsley, green pepper and roasted red pepper and continue to beat until well blended.

Drop the butter by tablespoonfuls onto parchment paper. Freeze for 1 hour. Pack into a freezer bag. Butter will keep in freezer 3–4 months.

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